bobss396

Back on the horse. The existing transmission tunnel was too small fir the engine set back. I made up some monstrosity tunnel that left little room for the seat. Since I have a ton of old NASCAR kits... why not? They are full of donor goodies. So this is it so far. I need to trim out the front of the interior tub and putty up a couple voids. And I did gut the dash.

I have to take pictures of my '56 Ford I'm working on. The A and B pillars were broken, nothing missing. I reinforced them with thin aluminum strips and CA glue. In the past I have scribed channels in the post and roof. Then embedded wire with CA glue.

One guy in the club used Blendr and likes it. I was turned onto Tinker CAD but didn't get far with it. I need a new PC, mine bit the dust.

There was a cable TV show about Anderson, Driving Dirty. It was quite good. The track itself looked like a good place to race. I was over at Saugus Speedway in California in 1986 for the Southwest Tour, which was late models. They had the street stocks doubling as figure 8 cars, all they had to do were some adjustments and change tires.

Exceptional work on the bed and boom. I like the bumper guard too. I made mine from a scratch. Might have 4 hours into that effort.

I have built so many of these as a kid. They are fun kits to build.

What tracks? I saw them mainly on Long Island. I'm not sure if they have to still run the 6. I saw some wicked fast ones in Florida, all V8 powered.

No idea. I'm pulling this from a very dark place. I saw a lot of them over the decades. I have another in mind, more modern with a Vega or Nova body. Even the newer ones circa 1984 still used old Galaxie frames. They took some abuse.

So, put a 300 cubic inch 6 cylinder into an old AMT kit.. it will be fun they said. The 3D printed transmission plus the set back I had to go with made a ton of work for me. I have to build a transmission tunnel, trim out the firewall after I get the mounts made up

Added some shots of the rub rails, seat and belts. Rails are .093" tubing and pinned with .047" brass rod. Much stronger over using all plastic. Steering wheel was done, using the kit piece, with Tamiya TS 30 silver with Tamiya clear blue over it. Just about any parts store had metal flake steering wheels that were widely used. Bumpers are done, everything is pinned to help final assembly. I can start engine mounts shortly now that the engine basics are assembled.

These had the camber thing going on both sides. And they were toed-out at least an inch. They really didn't handle well until the tires were "scuffed" in. Once scuffed, a R side tire couldn't be used on the L side and vice versa.

I'm not sure yet. Probably will remove them.

The '56 is back in work. Painted up most of the VCG Resins 6-cylinder that will the engine fit. Body is essentially done, the chassis too. Made up weight jackers for the front springs. Small parts box is starting to fill up. Next is some dash gauges. Rub rails are done, not pictured

Very nicely done. This was the car that Coo Coo won the 100-mile Daytona qualifying race in. He was the only driver that did not make a fuel stop. NASCAR had a canary over it... the next year the twin races were 125 miles. I have a Savinos MC I started a while back and the decal sheet... hmmm...

This is the 413 in my current Mercury rebuild. I have done nothing to the engine, it was already decently build with wires added to it.

My brother built the Buick a few years back. He narrowed the kit tires and they looked a lot better.

I started in 1960 or 1961. Of course I never had much money even to buy more than a 10 cent bottle of paint. Tried using thread for wires, looked awful. We had no real tools, certainly not small drills or a pin vise. When mom was not hone, we would use the gas stove, old knives or metal skewers to do real surgery. My dad had a sanding drum we used on his drill press to radius wheel wells. Gasser were cool even back then. My older brother had a Zona razor saw, he never let us use it.

Craft stores have all sorts of neat stuff. How about wrapping some fine silver-colored band material around them, glue on the back side. No paint required. Maybe some very fine silver wire would work too.

Soft Scrub is good. I use a scrubby sponge and it cuts the grime. Real tough spots, I'll use lacquer thinner on a rag. I have to do this myself, I'm getting ready to re-caulk my upstairs tub.

We have a local who flips horrendous cars. One of his gems was in a friend's shop to be inspected. The RF rotor was down to just the hub portion. The actual disc part was gone. The caliper was still in place, but had a piece of wood instead of brake pads in it.

All the same from what I have seen of the line.

I'm "restoring" an OG 1949 Mercury now that has the 413 in it. It does build up nicely.

Wasn't the Mopar engine in the AMT '49 Mercury a 413?

I curb scraped one of my Mustang wheels and decided to fix it, ala DIY. I took the wheel/tire off the car and started with 320 grit on a DA sander. Then 400 followed by wet sanding with 600. Nice and smooth, 95% of the scrape was gone. I used TS gloss black, no primer. I masked off the tire and gave it 2 coats. Going on year 2 with the fix and it looks good.

I built one as a kid... as a junker. I hope they made some improvements to the fit issues.