Pico

This was printed by an Atlanta area 3d printer, and he will print one for you for $150 plus shipping. PM me for details. Engine and engine compartment are included.

I used Sketchup to modify the file for 3d printing. The file for the body was obtained elsewhere, PM me for details.

Bill, Surely you attended the Philly NNL earlier this year? I displayed the model there.

I saw Randy's 3d printed wheels at our Southern NNL and it's the best printed item I've ever seen.

Lookin' good.

The spokes will not obscure enough on the hub to be a problem with painting.

What printer are you using?

Starting at 1, pull monofilament fishing line to 2, which is the first hole to the left of 3, which is directly across from 1. then to 3 and thread it on the opposite side of the hub to 4. Then start the sequence again at the first hole to the right of 4. Notice this method is only usable with rims that have holes in multiples of 4. Spoke diameters vary widely, but a spoke of 1/4" diameter would be .010" in 1/24th scale.

Third way, be back later..

When you're done with that, try this...

It was on the project table at out show, I'm having trouble making the yellow decals for the fenders; as well as working on another project and moving my model building shop from my unheated basement to guest bedroom. I have tons of time in it and will finish it.

I'm beginning to think I'll get this done for our show this Saturday - everyone here is attending,right? Check the events column on the right for the Southern NNL.

I have a bit of fine sanding ahead. Striking color combination.

Duplicolor black.

Time to shoot the fenders black. This much masking makes me nervous.

Nice work.

You left out the gaskets.

After several years work, off and on, but fairly concentrated since April, I beginning to feel I might be closing in on finishing this. Getting the color on is always a satisfying step. Gravity Color's Grabber Orange for the body, black for the fenders. Maybe a bit flashy but so is the car.

The template was taken from the two tone blue car.

Each of these cars are a bit different. The car I am modelling is a long wheel base car, because it "flows" better. The shorter wheelbase are tighter and fender shapes are different.

Bilingham has suggested using Cratex abrasives for the engine turning; which looks like a good idea: https://www.cratex.com/ .

After a several week break and massive workbench top cleaning, I'm at it again. Here carving the transmission hump from epoxy putty.

Ha! I am waiting to see how you engine turned the body.

Brass bumpers for strength.