NOBLNG

Easy, all you need is $$$ and more $$$$$$.😬

WOW! 😎 https://digital.modernrodding.com/issue/september-2024hs/the-1936-ford-roadster-built-at-rad-rides-by-troy-is-nearing-completion/

Farms produce all my favourite food.

If you are spraying directly from the can it might be a good idea to spray the fenders separately. If you can decant the paint and use an airbrush then I would paint it as one unit. There is a fairly large space between the fenders and boxrail on that kit that could be done with an airbrush…not sure about the spray bomb?

If you need to build up a fairly thick layer, I would recommend a two part filler like Fine White Milliput (my preference) or Tamiya epoxy putty. It sands easily and won’t shrink like a solvent based putty. Then I would use solvent cement to tack the styrene strip to the bare styrene sections of the hood. Once it is perfectly aligned use CA to attach the remainder to the puttied area.

Thanks Dave! 🙂👍

There is one in this kit. 1/25th scale. I don’t know how it compares to other examples?

Intelligence…natural intelligence comes from experience and education.

This is what I came up with. https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/1972-GMC-Astro.pdf

Finished off the links for the rear. They are 1/16” brass tube and .032” rod. The jam nuts are .060” Plastruct hex rod and the rod ends are punched from .040” sheet.

Well I’ve got a 9” rear that I cast glued in place with a couple of shallow air bags, and I got a start on a four link setup. I decided I better get the front suspension set too before finalizing the rear. I don’t like the original metal axle setup and wanted to lower it a bit anyways. So I found a dropped axle in the parts box and cut the spring off the kit piece. I had to narrow the spring a bit the mate up with the axle. I previously made these radius rods for my ‘31 Sedan that I didn’t use, so I figured I’d put them to use here. So the stance is now set!

Thanks Len!🙂

Yes, they have a 3/32” shank on them. Most rotary tools should have collets to accept both 3/32” and 1/8” accessories.

Picked these up at Princess Auto for $20. They are made in Switzerland and look to be very high quality.

Can someone let me know what these belong to please? Thanks, Greg.

If the can still works just spray out what you need through a straw into a cup. Then transfer it to your airbrush. Nothing will store the paint as well as the original can. Some guys let the paint gas out before re-spraying it…I don’t think it’s necessary? You do have to let it gas out well before storing it in a sealed container.

No major snow predicted here…but it’s darn cold out there right now!🥶

I know mine isn’t very accurate.😕

Trashy is OK by me.😜

That looks very nice!

Any of those colors would look good on it.😎 I am a big Jeep fan too and there is no way I could build it stock. I would have to give it a lift and bigger tires.😬 But that’s just me.

Thanks for the extra info Bill. My gut told me that one cylinder would be on compression and the other on exhaust. But I am no mechanic so I can be easily misled. I guess I should get back to building models and resign myself to the fact that the 12 plug head will remain a mystery.

To Tims original question…I have yet to see a picture of a dual plug head, only the 12 terminal distributor. Could it be possible that there was a dual-fire setup that would fire two cylinders simultaneously? I have heard it referred to (but not much more) and from what I can gather, two pistons could be at TDC at the same time so it may be possible?

I have been trying to figure out how to make some functional hood hinges for a Toyota S800. While looking for something else at a local hobby shop, I came across some 1/16” square brass tube and some 1/32” square brass bar. I have a prototype built for proof of concept that works. I have some ideas already of how to improve it….but dang it is tiny and hard to work with. Edit: not exactly accurate but fairly close.

I agree, the award is well deserved. Your fit and finish talents and attention to detail are second to none.