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Also, since most rotary tools don’t have an awful lot of torque, multiple light passes are usually better than trying to take too much material out in one pass.

Game of Thrones was a great series to watch.

Cool!😎 This is what the google translate on my iPhone gave me.

The razor saw I mostly use for making square cuts on Evergreen stock in a mitre box. It could be used for long straight cuts like a chop or section job, but I prefer to score the line with a panel scriber then finish the cut with a photo etch saw. The dremel hopefully has a low enough speed that it will not melt the plastic. The abrasive discs I believe will just clog up. For cutting you may need something like saw blades. I mostly use my rotary tool with sanding drums and burrs for shaping. You can always practice on a scrap body especially with the dremel. A slip up with it can quickly do a lot of damage…and not just to the plastic.😬

Likely built by a kid that surmised exhaust is hot so it should be red.

Whiney people usually don’t have anything to whine about.

The squirrels could have returned it when you weren’t looking. They like to mess with you that way….believe me I know!🙄 I think you have that stance looking real good on this one Jim!😎

I like to cover the glass inside and out with a wide piece of Tamiya tape. Trim the tape then fit the glass. You can trace the opening onto the tape from the outside with a fineline pen or pencil to see how much excess could possibly be trimmed. The tape also keeps it from getting scuffed during the fitting process.

The decals really do look great Steve!👍

Much nicer!👍😎

I have two airbrushes. I first bought an Iwata Eclipse. It is a gravity feed, internal mix, two stage airbrush. It should be capable of any and all tasks involved in model building. Disassembly and deep cleaning may be needed occasionally. I used it a few times then bought a Paasche H. I have not used the Iwata since. It is not as delicate and won’t do quite as fine, detailed work as the Iwata, but it is a dirt simple, super easy to use and keep clean workhorse, and nearly indestructible. It can also use either a cup or bottle for a paint reservoir. I don’t doubt that both of these airbrushes will be around longer than I will. I would highly recommend the Paasche as a first or only airbrush to anyone. You won’t find a bad review of it. Just buy one and start spraying. Edit: And buy a compressor with a tank…the bigger the better.

Times are gonna get tough.

Type this into google and you will get a dozen or more threads on the topic (site:modelcarsmag.com what airbrush)

Bacon wrapped shrimp is something very, very tasty that I found on the menu.

Greg Arious is NOT my real name.🙄

I too like that color Jim. I’d call it Baileys Irish Cream, or maybe Dooley’s Original Toffee Liqueur?🙂

I have no knowledge of the actual rules…but I would think that without a roll cage or at least a rollbar you would be better off to be thrown clear (hopefully) in the event of a rollover. Maybe someone else knows for certain?

Awesome attention to detail David! Very realistic looking.😎

Location, location, location is what matters if you want to open a successful bodega.

Correct use of a tried and true paint “system” can almost guarantee outstanding results.

Some of the off brand ones are Ok. Some are a waste of money. Read the reviews if you can. i have some American line ones that are quite nice and some Chinese ones that are not quite as good, but still a bargain. I will sharpen the tips once on a diamond stone to get a little extra use from them, but I still go through a lot! And for foil work I still prefer these.

I prefer Smooth-On resins over Alumilite. I have also found that the Alumilite stuff stays a little soft after the advertised full cure time. I find they do eventually harden up though.

Believe me, cats can cause a lot of havoc.

Welcome to the forums Daniel. Looking forward to seeing your progress.😎

This is Mr.Color #131 propeller brown. It is not metallic though.