NOBLNG

I’m liking that paintwork!😎

Sign, smign….I’m eatin’ everything I paid for.

Any reputable shop that wishes to remain in business must give the customer satisfaction. That said, SOME customers do not appreciate what is involved with running a business. It isn’t just the mechanic’s wages plus a meager markup. There are all sorts of expenses incurred by the owner…property taxes, business taxes, equipment maintenance, property maintenance, heat and electricity, legal and accounting fees and….Plus there must be a surplus for future equipment purchases or unforeseen expenses.

They belong on the refrigerator in your scale workshop.😜

That’s how I understood it too.

Imaginable scenarios in just about every arena have have expanded enormously.

Draw the shape of the part you need on a sheet of 0.04” or 0.06” styrene. Drill a hole in the center void, cut the perimeter close to size, then file the interior and exterior to shape. It could stay as square tubing or you could file/sand them round. Fiddly work but unless you can find suitable kit parts or have access to a 3d printer it may be your best bet.

Perhaps a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning may help if there are any issues with the airbrush itself. Once again I will recommend a Paasche H if you should decide to get another one.

Relationships are becoming increasingly purely electronic.

It wasn’t me.

Super deal for a dollar!🙂 A guy at a local flea market has some nice precision stuff like that but he wants a fortune for them.😕 I use this AK pin vise. It will grip from a #24 (.152) down to a #78 (.016).

Wow!😳 That body was really rough looking. It looks pretty good now though. That kit was very lucky to have found you Len.😬

I glued the grill and tail light panels on the GT350 and started smoothing the seams. Also got most of the engine parts glued together.

The paint is looking gorgeous David!😎

What I would do for filling door lines is to fill them with round or half round styrene and Tamiya thin cement. Smoosh it in real good and scrape/sand flush when fully dry. You could use the butt end of a drill bit to re-scribe the seams to match the size of evergreen you have. (0.030” drill for 0.030” evergreen for example). The putty should work also, but I would use a primer/sealer over it. Bear in mind that I am no expert JMO.🤔

Itch that won’t go away may require some salve.

Just an update for anyone perplexed by this conundrum.🙄 A club member that I talked to last year about the car gave me some info yesterday. He said the car went up for sale and has since been sold and moved to Alberta. He also said that the car was in an accident at some point and was not repaired to stock . He did manage to get a photo off of the ad for me.

I wondered whether the bodies on these were steel or aluminum so I went looking online. It appears only some of the very early ones had hand built aluminum bodies. Here is a good site for info: https://www.porsche356registry.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=579966&module_id=739250

I don’t intend to ever get competitive but here’s my take on it. If the model (or a substantial portion of it) can be reproduced with the touch of a button then it is not scratch built and should have its own category.

I hate these big folded instruction sheets so….I took pictures of all the assembly steps for this AMT Mustang, re-sized them all and made a small booklet from them that fits nicely in the box.🤓

Nice work on hinging the dump bed and doors. the weathering is looking quite realistic too.😎

Last night and this morning I chopped up this Mobius F-100.😈

Here’s a little better mockup.