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I’ve replaced the side beads with some 0.030” and 0.020” half round Evergreen. I had to make the smaller size by scraping it down to half thickness. It needed a bit of light sanding to get rid of the rough edges. I carefully pulled it through a folded 1500 or 2500 grit sanding pad to smooth them. Once glued in place with Tamiya thin and the edges smoothed a bit I think it looks better than the original in my eye.🤓 And I re-made the detail at the front edge from some thin Evergreen. I see the headlight pods are not quite correct. They should have a 2/3 football shape instead of a 1/2 football shape if that makes any sense. I think I will leave them as they are though.😕

A bit of primer and it will look like it was part of the plan from the get go.😎

You have quite the imagination Claude…and the talent to showcase it with incredible builds!👍😎 I love your hood hinging systems.👍

Nice work on the chop!👍😎

Unless you are doing a white or otherwise very light color, I would use their light grey primer as it will help to reveal mold lines and imperfections better than the white. I have had good luck with Mr. Hobby clears….both the UV Cut and their premium topcoat in the green can. I recently did a test paint job with Duplicolor perfect match clear and it worked very nicely over Mr. Hobby paint. It is a lacquer though, so can’t be used over enamel. It may work over water based acrylics, but do a test first.

What wire bender are you using? Can you post a picture of it? Thanks.🙂

I bent up some 3/32” plastruct tubing for a roll cage with some soft wire shoved inside. It bends beautifully, but the moment I touched the bend with some Tamiya quick set, the styrene split. I eventually used CA for my cage which does not cause a problem. But then I tried another test. After bending I just quickly passed it over the flame of a butane lighter. The flame took all the tension out of the styrene. The middle bend has also had the quickset applied…but no cracking at all. I imagine it would work for solid rod also if it is prone to cracking.

You are pretty well set. Now jump in with both feet and start building.😜 You will ALWAYS need more stuff. Remember this applies to both paint and primer.

Thanks Dan. I haven’t even looked closely at the grill yet. Thanks for the heads up on it. Thanks, Yes, they supply a clear hood also, which I won’t be using. I have raised the rear back up to the original height too. Thanks. It certainly won’t be any showstopper.🙄 Hopefully just a little nicer than what AMT produced.

Cool!😎 It looks good in that dark red.👍

I have the headlights finalized. Bezels are glued in place. The reflector I made from an aluminum pie plate. Lens are parts box pieces.

Outstanding work Dave!👍 Any more pics of that engine bay?😎

What a cute little car.👍😎

Mmmmmmaybe not.😎

That will allow a bigger lens too. Right now it scales out to only 6-1/2”.

Yep! By sanding them down I may get an uneven contour.🤔 I am also missing the hood ornament so I’ll have to scratch one out. I would really love to hinge the hood, but I have experimented a bit and don’t think it’s feasible without some huge ungainly looking contraptions. So it will just be located by magnets.

I added pins to the headlight buckets for easy installation after paint. The headlights themselves and the bezels are missing, so I am fabricating some from tubing. The ‘37s did not have sealed beams so I think my home-made lens will look OK. I’ve scratched a couple from 5/16 tube but they are a tad smaller diameter than the buckets. The buckets are actually the correct diameter (8-1/2” by my research). I could sand them down but I am waiting for a local hobby shop to open…if they have the 11/32 tube, I will get some of that and try again. Thanks for lookin’. 🤓

Thanks for the kind comments Guys!🙂 The blue dots I made by drilling right through the red lens that I made from red sprue and pinning it to the standoff with 0.025” Evergreen rod. I countersunk the pin just a touch and added a drop of clear blue.

Now…it’s back to the bench.

Wow. Impressive undertaking…especially if you are just now learning how to solder. Good Luck with this and future projects.👍

Noce work so far. That chassis weathering looks very realistic.👍😎

I agree that a solid color would look better. Is is a nice blue though and not worth stripping…I’d just start another one.🤓

It’s not what you think!😜 I made these for my ‘37 Chevy Cabriolet from some 0.156” Evergreen rod. I clamped a short section of scrap photo etch saw blade in a pair of forceps and just pushed it against the spinning Evergreen to scrape the circular pattern on the end. Then used the jaws of the drill as a guage for cutting the pad loose. Edit: You could make vintage brake and clutch pedals like this maybe.

…on that note, I think the kit pieces are a little large so I chopped them back a tad and added some red sprue lens. I added brass pins to the rumble seat steps and drilled holes in the body at the locations that were marked with a very faint raised ridge. I wasn’t happy with the location after mounting the tail lights, so I plugged the holes with stretched sprue. The pads have a big sink mark in the center and were not sitting perfectly level where the standoffs had the best fit on the fender. I remounted them lower on the fender and cut the pads off. Drilled and pinned the gas cap too.🙂 I made some new pads from 0.156” Evergreen rod and added pins so they can be installed after paint.

Thanks Ulf. I researched it a bit and one source says a passenger side taillight was standard equipment on a Cabriolet, and another says it was a dealer installed option.? Anyways this kit does come with two tail lights and the instructions notably say “right side optional”. So I am going to install them both.