Jeff Johnston

My opinion is Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. These are hard black resin.

Its a problem in internet explorer. Google chrome takes the past just fine. It's actually not a Photobucket issue but an IE issue.

I use a very sharp white or silver pencil to highlight the numbers. Then I shave down a toothpick to a teeny point, and use a tiny dot of chevy engine red on the toothpick end to make the needles.

I agree Art. I like to see the printed cards people leave so I can read what they did on the car. I think of this for the other builders and no so much for the judges.

my biggest issue with old paint is it has no spray ft in it.

I have that fiddly IMS GT 40 kit and I plan to try my hand at it again soon. Last time I said more than a few not to nice words building that one. Maybe I'll have better luck this time.

This kit actually has the 73 Grille in the kit even though the boxart shows a 72 or 72. Like everyone else said, none of these kits are gems, but if you;re looking to do a shelf model of a car you once owned, this one will do the trick. This kit has the stock rims in it as well. This is the kit

This is exactly how I do it too. I actually use masking tape to secure the straw so I don't bet paint all over my fingers. Well. more paint..I usually have paint on my fingers haha I also agree it takes 24 hours with Tamiya. The one exception is Testors wet look clear. It gases out fairly quickly. Everything else I just set the cap loosely on the badger jar and let it sit for a day. When you check it, just screw the cap on and give it a shake. If when you loosen the cap you hear a pssst (like you are opening a soda can) its not time yet.

My variation is that I install the front first. I usually leave the back off until final assembly, so there is some wiggle room. I took this while I was building and you can see the chassis will fit with the tail panel on.

It was suggested to me when I started airbrushing to buy a cheap Harbor Freight set up. I did...and I was frustrated, because as mush as I practices, I could not get consistent results. When I posted on line about my frustrations, I was told get a descent compressor and a descent airbrush. It made ALL the difference. If you are going to start airbrushing, buy the good stuff up front. I have a Badger 175 and when it broke, Badger replaced it for free. Parts are plentiful. I also have a Campbell Hausefeld 2 gallon compressor. They make a nice one gallon that you can get at Wal Mart for under 50 bucks. One tip someone gave me, which really helped when I was starting off. If you back the pin out just a little on the the Badger, it will operate as a single action. It will help to get used to how to operate a dual action airbrush. Once you start you'll never look back. But my advice, based on my own experience, is to get the quality stuff up front. Not that harbor Freight is junk, but I was not able to get the same results form a higher quality product for my Badger, or I'm sure one of the other names mentioned. I'm definitely a badger guy.

I don't want one. haha They really are a WEIRD looking car...

I'd like to see these re released...truth is none of them can be as I understand it. 67 Galaxie. Can't be reissued because as I understand, the tooling was converted to the 68 69 Grand prix. 66 Ford Falcon. Became the 69 which became the race car. 73 or 75 Firebird formula or both Ditch.... any 57 Chevy

I don't see Round2 doing any full detail kits. Sure would be nice if they did, but with all the tools they have from AMT, MPC, Lindberg, Polar lights they can repackage and re-release kits and make a nice living at it until they retire. Though it wound be nice if someone else was popping out new kits. Personally my favorite Charger its the 68, but a lot of folks dig the 70.

The mat is just sheet styrene with some texture lines made with the back of a #11 blade. Low tech HAHA.

This has to be the coolest think I've seen on any model board...probably ever. Every little detail. Very inspirational stuff.

I only use the white. The reason is that you can paint it. The paint dries onto the embossing powder in a flatter sheen than on the styrene. Here is my 65 Mustang with painted embossing powder.

if its all caps I don't have to put my glasses on to read it. I'm cool with that

It's been a while since I built this kit, but you can install that piece first. You can carefully slide the chassis into it. It takes some patience bit it definitely an be done.

Good looking Mustang Steve.

Future works well but will yellow over time. I always liked the Wal-Mart brand Color Place clear before I started using lacquers. Also Krylon makes a good clear product.

I have a 2006 low mileage car that is my summer weekend toy too. I never warmed up as much to the 10-14 cars but I did like them. Just prefer the 05-05, that is until the 2015 came out. I'm smitten...want one bad. However with one in college and another on the way in the fall, I'm going to have to wait

Indeed... she was a looker.

I just finished spraying these resin wheels. Alclad over Testors gloss back enamel. I just really love this stuff !

I've used Alclad for years and maybe a better way for me to have said it is... for me...this is the way that I get the best results. Those things I listed work best for me. Others may have other techniques. I always get silver when I spray at too high a pressure. Stray, they key is you have to get a bottle and some parts and find what works best for you.

I don't use water. I spray a base coat and when ts still tacky put the salt directly on the paint.