CAL

There is always public transit.

What is wrong with that? Well since a Toyota is about as interesting and exciting as a Maytag, and maybe that turns some people on...

Great now we will have a very expensive (for what it is) overly complicated, not terrible green, slow, cheaply made and even more pointless way of moving around in some THING trying to be a Celica. If you want green get a diesel. If you want a sports car buy a Ferrari. Toyota are experts at taking all the fun out of driving a car. I had a Celica GTS and it was the most boring car I have ever owned.

That is probably because who wants one. They are heavier, flex more, and leak water. Pass.

This is my daily driver I have been looking for one of these though It's been two years and no luck. I thought I found one once but it was a fake and have found 5 other fakes or people with no clue like a SC being sold as a Wide Body, no real ones, and would rather not get a Turbo, not withstanding the are still about 10K more than a non turbo car $30-40K What is so special about this one you might ask. It is a 84-88 Carrera SC with a 491 option, which is the "Turbo Look" wide body, turbo suspension, turbo brakes and wheels without the turbo. Only 1184 were made. I guess my next best option is just to get a SC coupe, but even those are hard to find. I find lots of Targas but coupes perferably without a sunroof . Someday I will find it, and build a moderenized 934 like car.

+1 It works best when you wick it in the joint

If it Pro Weld it is the exact same stuff as Tenax: Methylene Chloride.

That is awesome. I thought I would be the only one in the world to have have that kit - PIE version.

Since it was almost 60 degrees out it was heli day. I got a coupe out of storage. Worked on a few, ordered some parts, and I am going to try and fire up my newly converted Hyper .50 Hawk.

Happy B-day Nick where ya been hidding?

Thanks There probably is a bunch of them. My technique: up the pressure on my brush to about 25psi, with a real wide spray pattren. I shoot it straight out of the bottle I start with misting some on so the heavier coats stick well. This stuff is like water really thin. I have had some bodies literally dripping with Future and they have dried perfect. Then I just go to town. Small sags and runs will go away when it dries. Larger sags and runs will need sanded out. I just layer it on pretty heavy coat after coat until I am happy with it. Works on clear "glass" parts too. And I spray it over BMF trims, badges, emblems side marker lights There is a bit of a learning curve to it how much you can get away with putting on in a single sitting, quite a lot actually, and trying to keep it all "wet" so you don't get dull overspray areas. You can tint with Tamiya acrylic clear colors: smoke, amber, red, blue, orange. you can use as glue for PE scripts It is also very forgiving. And defects just sand out and reshoot. Sides down at the bottoms are the trickiest becuase it is so thin that is were it likes to puddle, sag and run. I let it dry and recover several times drying between coats and little or no sanding. Do not wet sand it will strip it all off. New coats of Future will melt in with old dry coats. I grabbed a few bodies and played with it first awhile to get a feel for what it was going to be like to work with. It is not really like working with paints or other clears. If you understand it you can get outstanding finishes. If you use like a paint or clear you can still get good finishes but will miss the true beauty of this stuff.

I agree about the proof. And this is Future Future over flat

Not so much. I have found by and large if it isn't their's they don't take care of it like I take care of my stuff and it is never returned in the same condition it was lent out in. So, unless it is something I can easily replace have a dup of or don't care about that much yeah go ahead and take it. Anything that would be expensive to replace, I couldn't live without or a precision machine or tool. Not on your life. I have no reason to trust anyone. Everyone I ever trusted eventually let me down in some way. Trust is something I don't have a lot of faith or take a lot of stock in. Of course it depends on degree. You can use my bic lighter, but the drill press - no.

Not so much. I have found by and large if it isn't their's they don't take care of it like I take care of my stuff and it is never returned in the same condition it was lent out in. So, unless it is something I can easily replace have a dup of or don't care about that much yeah go ahead and take it. Anything that would be expensive to replace, I couldn't live without or a precision machine or tool. Not on your life.

They did that to a IPMS judge, put a car on a base, made it roll really well, and put it together with elmers glue.

Yeah, Future is very shinny, it has good depth, an easy to work with. It is the best bang for the effort. I was a long time skeptic turned believer. I have been quite impressed with the results. Other clears can bring more stunning results but they are often... who am I kidding, always a lot of work to get perfect. I don't have the patients to wait for enamels which really take weeks to cure, and have Futured over enamels within 24 hrs without any problems to date. I also use a lot more flat colors. They are easier to shoot, dry quicker, and are just as shinny after a few Furture coats, which sticks better to flats.

I have been a judge and never had to pick up someone elses model the standing rule was you get the owner to pick it up if needed. I think only once I had to have an owner pick up a model in a tie-breaker situation. To be honest, and maybe it's not fair, but I don't care what the bottom looks like - really. I have a pretty good idea of the model over all from guaging what I can see: fit and finish, paint, assembly, and overall appearance, decals, and glass. I also look for anything special or that stands out - especially if there is something that makes me ask myself how in the world did the builder do that. A bunch of poorly added details doesn't go very far with me.

If you look to the left my name is there in compliance with the new rules, which I was told all you needed was a first name and didn't need to be in the signature box any more. Doesn't make much difference to me. I was all there once upon a time until it was all stripped out with the change over.

I don't know why anyone needs to touch a model to judge it. After all it's a STATIC display model not an INTERACTIVE display model. It sould be the responsiblity of the builder to display the model for the biggest bang of the buck. It is the responsiblity of the judge to judge what he or she sees and not have to going looking for the super detailed rear end cover bolts with washers. I donno, I think ever contest I have ever been to that was the rule, including the one where I have one of my models dropped. NO TOUCHING but some people can't seem to resist picking them up anyway. They should have all there fingers broken.

nope, it wasn't even a big model a 1/35 scale resin military commander figure, probably a $10. Guy came in and said it was his and got the manager to give it to him. While for the large part, most of people I have met though this hobby have been a cut above your average folks, but there have been a few lowest of low scum-puppies I have had the most displeasure of crossing paths with. Probably why I pretty much keep to myself nowdays. Don't belong to any clubs anymore, don't do the contest thing, don't leave models in the LHS display case.

I had a model stolen too, not at a contest but out of a hobby store display case.

NO TOUCHING! period, end of story... keep your cotton picking mits to yourself. I have had one model distroyed by a "judge" picking it up and dropping it... they wouldn't even say who actually did it. I didn't even get a sorry. That was the last contest I entered.

It's a Tyrrell P34 "B" which was also wider, heavier. Maybe a P34/5 or P34/6?