Bills72sj

Thank you Bob.? Thank you Anthony. ? Thank you Richard ? I have grown to admire the body style as well.

Very nice effort. I am working on one right now.

Thank you Donato. ? Thank you Larry. ? Thank you William. That is something I strive for in every build. Thank you Anders. ?

That looks really nice.

Jeff, Thank you. My diorama project was a fun build that went WAY over budget but it is pretty much exactly what I wanted. Little Testors enamel bottles mixed 50/50 with Home Depot or Lowes lacquer thinner works pretty well. I use a Mr Hobby PS290 with a 0.5 mm nozzle. Some folks thin it 10% more for smaller needles. You can use the same lacquer thinner to clean your airbrush after you are done. If you have enamel rattle cans, you can decant them (safely) and spray it just as it is, or maybe thin what you get out, a little bit. The trick I have learned is to spray the first coat kind of a dry mist with a little too much distance until you have shaded the piece about 25-30% coverage. Pause and let it "bite" for a minute or two. Afterwards move in closer and adjust your speed and strokes until you have 100% coverage but is wet enough to self level. Don't be in a hurry but keep spraying/stroking until you just "get" a nice glossy piece. It is ok to pause the paint flow and just blow air if you feel that you are risking a run or sag. Then quit and let it cure. Try to avoid missing any thing so you do not have to add anymore coats. Watch out for transparent colors running away from any ridges. They may require more blow time. This is where a double action airbrush can show its benefit. The paint really does not care what the plastic material is. Especially if you prime it first.

Thank you, thank you and thank you Ken. ? Thank you Mark. The wheels were part of my vision early on. Thank you Anton. I have grown to like the Colonnade body style as well. Especially the front of a 73-75 Pontiac Grand Am and later the white Can Ams Thank you James. ?

Nice build. Thank you for sharing. I have rebuilder with a fresh cab to get to one of these days.

I bought one not too long ago. Mostly to improve the pictures of my builds. Fortunately my bench already has plenty of light and my eyesight rarely needs any help. I have yet to pin anything. I have yet to lose a spoiler. I generally leave mirrors off because if they were never there, they cannot leave glue spots when they come up missing.

I am an enamel fan too. While 3D printing does not have release agents like resin, washing the parts is a good idea. Go with a super fine lacquer primer just to make sure the surface is as you want it to be. Enamels thinned with lacquer thinner, airbrush really nice and only take a couple of days to be touchable. However, my parts tend to get 2 weeks of rest due to my batch building technique and my limited build time. Both of my 4 post lifts are 3D printed and sprayed with enamel. No issues,

I have been doing multiple builds over a number of years. I will work on one semi build with various levels of concentration, one or two complicated/highly modified builds and what I call batch builds. The batch builds are 4-5 kits of similar subject. Since I am a "Day Two" muscle car fan, I will mix and match parts between them to get a unique color/options package for each. It improves my overall efficiency for the limited time I have to work on them. Since I generally use enamels, I have plenty of tasks at hand while the paint cures. I have done a batch of Challengers, two batches of Chevelles, a batch of Mustangs and am currently working on a batch of mid 60's Pontiacs. When I bump into a problem for one, I can implement the solution for all of them as needed. I very rarely get frustrated and shelve a kit in progress. I get around 4-7 builds done a year within a year or two. This method makes my painting days much more productive and does not take away as much motivation whenever I have a paint failure. I always have the other builds to help me get over it. Sometimes I have one straggler but it too eventually makes it a cross the finish line

Sorry, I forgot to answer the light question. They are aftermarket running lights I got off ebay in the middle of the project. I remember they did not cost very much at the time.

Hopefully 10 years down the road the housekeeper (me) will still be keeping it clean. It has already started to accumulate some additional car parts such as a camshaft and crankshaft. However, it does stay in my display cabinet so that will help. I had lots enjoyment building it.

If you had, you would have stood out in a crowd. Thank you David. ? Thank you Chris. ? Thank you Samuel. ? Thank you Mario. This is the first I have ever seen in scale. I am glad you liked the workshop. Thanks, thanks, thanks and thanks Mike. Thank you Dave. ? Thank you Jim. ? Thank you Ray. ? Thank you Chaz. ? Thank you Craig. ? Thank you Jeremy. ? Thank you Carl. I know how that goes. It took nearly a year to make it happen. Thank you Eric. ? Thank you Scott. Staggered wheels and stance are two of the goals I always shoot for. Thank you Trevor. I am glad you like it. Thank you Carl. ?

If you have a lathe and some free time you could whittle a set from some aluminum tubing,

Pretty cool "driveway" platform you have there.

Pick ONE Hmmm.... I have a few but 1969 Grand Prix to finish out my 69-72 collection.

Nice work so far. Following as I like Boss Mustangs. (I built a 69 Boss 429 awhile back)

Cool Charger. Thanks for the heads up on the fitment. I have a number of these to get to... someday.

Thank you Eric. ?

Thanks for jumping into the deep end and sharing this option. When I run out of rattle can black, I will pick up some.

Steve give excellent advice and has the results to back it up. I too am gun shy about clearing my paint jobs. Clearing with Future will have ZERO chemical reaction with enamel as it does not have solvents in it to react with the base color paint. It also has the advantage of being able to removed with household ammonia if you are not absolutely pleased with the results. It is so forgiving and self leveling, you can apply it with a 3/8 wide paint brush. Just do not stroke it for too long. You can dang near drown it then wick off the excess with a paper towel. One bottle can cover years worth of builds.

This one is finally done. Backdated a 75 Cutlass promo to a 1974 Hurst/Olds with a Rocket 455. Lots of kit bashing and fabrication. No less than 6 kits contributed to this build. It started as a desire to replicate a car that I street raced against in the summer of '84 (I won BTW). I found the decals online years ago but kept waiting to pick up a neutral colored promo at a decent price. I started it right around a year ago. Wheel hoops are aluminum machined on my mini-lathe with 69 Olds wheel centers. The engine has the most detailing I have incorporated to date. This is the link to the build: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/170183-1974-hurstolds-indy-pace-car/ Comments welcome. ?

Go one light mist coat. Give it a few seconds to gas off then spray continuously until it is smooth THEN QUIT. Leave it alone for a couple of weeks. You can experiment with shooting Future over it as is has NO solvents to disrupt the surface of the chrome. My suggestion is to experiment. Here is the video that turned me onto GSW.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have yet to get around to that.

The blocks in the walls are actually printed paper I got from Hobby Lobby for around a buck a page. They are in scale but have no texture. Which for my needs and budget, worked for me. The checkerboard floor is paper as well.