Bills72sj

My brother owned a 1:1 of this car in the exact same color combo. Now I want you to imagine the hood flying up at 45mph and folding back to the top of the windshield. It went to the junk yard soon thereafter.

Thank you gentlemen for sharing this tip. I am midway through my "Big Girls" interiors tried using some tiny chrome dots and some white glass beads but I was not satisfied with the results. I will give your methods a try.

You are doing a great job. I too shoved a whole lot of detail into Olds Cutlass recently. I have a suggestion for your future air cleaners. Rather than gluing them on, I use a dab of silly putty (or its equivalent) to "tack" the air cleaner to the carb. It has the benefits of not falling off, being able to set it EXACTLY level and also being removable for display purposes.

Nice progress. You build reminds me of my little 67 Mustang GT build. Solder headers were a tight fit because a 427 Ford Cammer is big in a Mustang engine bay. I did the mini tub by cutting strips inboard and adding material outboard,

Welcome to the forum. I agree with pretty much everyone has shared so far. Don't worry about your profile. You are in. Selling on ebay is viable if the kit has enough value to be worth the time and effort. A kit that 50 other people are selling for $17 is not worth the time, effort or trip to the Post Office. If you posses somewhat rare kits, which in your 60-68 range may very well have, then you can definitely acquire some cash. If you have an upcoming model show in your area, then setting up a table will permit you to sell off a bunch in a hurry. As far as the ads go, my son put uBlock on my PC years ago. I have NEVER seen an ad on this website. (Like Ace, I would have no problem contributing cash from time to time as this forum give me a little joy and some good info every day.) You will find this forum a welcoming place and will learn A LOT!

I have built a couple of these with some minor mods. I have one left to restore. Be VERY careful with the thin little plastic pins for the ramp hinge.

That is a pretty color. I Wish my purple 70 Challenger R/T had turned out that color.

Way cool idea.

Nice color choices. I paint my shocks bright yellow too.

Nice work so far Sam. Following. My job has taken me out to Newberg a few times. I always think of you as I drive by Toledo. I have thought about stopping by but figured it would be impolite to do so with an invitation. Bill

All I can say is WOW!

"I second that emotion" ...Smokey Robinson.

Do you have your kit(s) picked out already? The AMT Ford C-600 straight truck and the C-900 has be reissued many times over the years. https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=Ford+C-600&fkCOMPNAME[]="AMT" https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=Ford+C-900&fkSCALENORMALISED[]="1:00025" The American LaFrance Pumper would be the closest for the rear section. https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=LaFrance+Pumper

I posted a link here to help others find it faster.

Nice concept. Following.

Did some ongoing trials on this mica spray test. Sprayed Future over half of the spoons. Turned out great. Experimented with my clear lacquer carrier by topcoating more of the same clear over the other half of the spoons. Tried to use Xylene as a thinner 50/50. Nearly instantly made jelly. Used lacquer thinner instead of Mr Color leveling thinner. Sprayed just fine with no adverse reaction whatsoever to the mica pigmented clear laid two days ago. This experiment is giving great results so far.

I have had only one of my Testors cans ooze out like that. It was a bare minimum 10 years old but more likely 15. I simply decanted it and sprayed it through my airbrush. Like mentioned above, you MAY need to thin it with lacquer thinner depending on its consistency once you have it out.

I built one of these years ago in Yellow. Following.

Depending on the paints you use, you could try getting a smaller sample box and mixing in the mica into your existing paints.

I did some over some primered spoons. Over white primer, the color looked better with some of the colors. My grey duplicolor primer was nearly impossible to cover completely and exaggerated the orange peel of the primer. I painted some light colors over some prepainted dark parts and it takes quite few layers for coverage. This should be expected with a clear base. This gives me the idea to maybe try mixing some powders into non metallic base colors.

Thank you for sharing this here AND back then,

I saw a couple of videos on Youtube about mixing mica powders with clear and airbrushing them. It looks like an economical way to get a whole bunch of cool metallic colors relatively cheaply. I did some research on Amazon and found a 63 color box of 10g each mica powders for $40. I also found a quart can of clear lacquer for $20. Today, I tried out a few of the colors with a rudimentary mixing ratio of 1/8 teaspoon of powder to 2ml of Mr Color Leveling thinner and 2ml of the relatively thick clear. The superfine powders mix with the thinner pretty well and then the clear was added. I shot it through a 0.5mm airbrush at 20 psi. It lays down like a typical tinted clear whereas you keep adding layers until the color is where you want it. It is very tolerant of running if you wait 15-20 seconds between applications of 6-7 passes. You can go heavier towards the end. When you are done, it looks really glossy. It dries in a couple of hours to a satin to semigloss sheen. I am sure with experimentation of ratios or technique, the gloss could be manipulated. As is, the sheen would be perfect to simulate a vinyl interior. Overall most colors that I tried look like 1/25 scale factory metallics. The few that have larger flecks in them have the "bass boat" look to them. The one pearl I tried really has a pearl effect with pink highlights and a light green aura. It just does not show in the pics. The other reason I got the mica powders was to try it as flocking for carpet. I have yet to do that. $60 for almost a lifetime of metallic paint colors is not a bad deal.

That is some nice work right there.

Experience and finesse are the key. I use a #11 blade with just a smidgen of the tip broken off. You must start out slowly and with a light touch. You can get a little more aggressive as you progress. I bought a Tamiya scribing tool and made 2 off line gouges in the first five strokes. Once I settled down, I found the groove too wide for my liking. It will probably be used for something else some day. Scribing is a finessed skill. Practice on junk bodies. Panel liner after the fact is hit or miss so far for me. Too dark on lighter colors and sometimes goes/wicks where I do not want is to. Steve's results speak for themselves.

Do you have a WIP link? I would like to see the mods you did to improve the kit. Nice result BTW.