Bills72sj

Both of them are really sweet. Are the van graphics decals or paint?

Very nice. Is it silver or does it have and "Irish Mist" tint to it?

Very nice! If it was a 1:1 I would be scared to ride in it!

Droool....

There has been much good advice here. Steve's handiwork is always impressive but it takes practice. My suggestion is to simply keep adding more and more tidbits to each successive build. That way you can also adapt to how much more time is involved to get the desired results. Awhile back I jumped too far into the details and while it gave me great (for me) results, it definitely delays the sense of satisfaction of completing the build. I work in the trades. It always takes WAY more time to fabricate something than it does to assemble something.

Me too. I would love to have such a beautiful example in my display case.

I would take a different approach. Foil then make my own precise decals that include both black and wood stripes.

No, his was a darker repaint. It was a very pretty medium dark metallic.

I like what I see. Following,

I would like to help clarify what GM did: 1:1 64-67 GM A-Body suspension/chassis are very similar to the 68-72 A-Body chassis. There are minor differences in front lower control arm bushings (some were round, some were oval). The rear 4-link differentials are interchangeable for all years HOWEVER, 68 and newer are 1/2' wider on each side (1" overall). I learned this when I put 1971 B-O-P 10-bolt axles in a B-O-P 1966 10-bolt housing. The 2" wide rear drums no longer covered all of the brake shoes. This was remedied by using the same vintage FRONT drums on the rear as they are 2-1/2" wide. Regarding wheelbase, the 68-72 A-body 2-doors were all 112" wheelbase. The 4-doors, station wagons, Monte Carlo and El Camino were all 116" wheelbase. The 69-72 Grand Prix got exclusive rights to the 118" wheelbase for 4 years. It was referred to as the G-Body because of it. (I have a genuine 1972 factory dealer service manual to prove it) Later on, GM reused the G-body designation for their 78-87 mid-sized platform. The more formal greenhouse for the 1969 Grand Prix was exclusive for that year only. It got shared with the Monte Carlo in 1970-72. Only the 70-72 Olds Cutlass Supreme got the formal roofline but it stayed on the shorter 2-door 112" wheelbase. Be aware, there is minor misinformation (due to insufficient research for their articles) on the internet about these facts. I had all this researched and sorted out long before the internet was invented.

That would be pretty cool (and rare) to have. One of my circle of friends had a 1:1 1969 Mustang Grande in Emerald metallic green and a black vinyl top. It had a 351 Windsor and an automatic. I was in very nice condition. He was however, disappointed that my buddy and I had a 1970 4 door Galaxie 500. That could spank his Mustang from a roll or from a dead stop.

Very nicely done!

Enamels can give great results. The cure time is the biggest drawback. If you are using rattle cans then 2-4 weeks. If you are airbrushing the little bottles thinned with lacquer thinner then just a few days.

Get a set of metal jewelers files. I always deflash with a #11 Exacto blade and files. They last virtually forever compared to sanding sticks. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html

I got a couple of these from my wife. Whenever I want to dust off my models, I gently brush them down at my paint booth set on high. That way the dust blows away from the model. While I do have a display case, it is also my builds-in-progress case. I keep forgetting to close the doors when sanding parts at the bench.

I wish I knew about the existence of this model. I could have saved some time making this...

Well executed. I like the small town background too.

That looks excellent!

I have eventually figured out spraying lacquer using the same procedures. They have given me the best results.

If I decant or thin paint. I put it in its own container. Sometimes it will store well. Sometimes not. The Rustoleum cans that Steve pictured above prompted me to buy some. The semi-gloss black mixed so-so with Mr Leveling Thinner. I did spray ok but the black pigment does try to settle out at the bottom. Both the Gloss black and the Semi-gloss black seem to like hardware store lacquer thinner. I sprayed 50/50 but I think it could be thinned more as well.

A long time ago, I built a 1:25 scale Hot wheels El Camino. The Hot Wheels version had blue tinted windows so I wanted to replicate that. I used food coloring mixed in a dixie cup with Future/Pledge. You have to get it pretty dark in the cup to make any tint on the glass. The beauty with future is that it hides blemishes in the glass. Another benefit is that it comes right off completely with household ammonia. So you can try and fail as many times as you want and never harm the glass.

I like this idea. I am just about to install the windows in my Pontiacs.

Thanks, It is good to get a bargain these days.

Nice detailing. Following.

That is a way cool combo.