Bills72sj

Once you have a smooth primed surface, brush paint it with Future. It is self leveling so you do not have to have an airbrush. If you mess up any areas, clean it off with household ammonia. (It should not bother the primer at all). One the Future has cured, it being acrylic, will seal the surface and keep the top coat solvents from leaching the color up to surface. Try all of this on a flat portion of sprue to confirm if you wish. Another alternative is rattle can chrome from the auto parts store. The high aluminum content may provide a chemical barrier as well. My former neighbor used it on drywall to stop a greasy pizza stain on his dining room wall from bleeding through his latex paint.

That is looking sweet!

Very nice build. Where did you add the body stretch? I have a future Pete 352 kitbash I would like to extend.

Very impressive so far!

I agree with all of the above. Nice color combo and overall look. Foil insulation under the cab is a nice touch. Did make or buy the headache rack?

I am in if they ever get reproduced. I already have everything from '53 to '67 plus a '70. '68 and '69's have been just to pricey to pull the trigger.

Thanks, I am actually building all your suggestions and my 66 Bonne simultaneously. All of them are to be 421 Tri-Power 4 speeds. The AMT consoles were so lame I fabricated new ones from scratch. I know they are slightly angled. However, my fingers could barely hold the tiny little buggers as it was.

I figure if I am in, I should post pics of my kits. I may have a delayed start as I am trying to finish up 3 builds near their end and 4 builds midway through.

A bit more work on the interior. The kit dash is a flat panel with a full width decal to represent it. LAME! I have a 62 Catalina dash in my parts box, while incorrect, at least has some detail to it and is in the correct era. However, it does not have the distinctive, individual, rectangular gauge pods. I decided to whittle down some square evergreen stock to fabricate them. I also learned that the 66 console is the same as the 65's. I plan refurbish my prototype console to be a close enough replacement for the all-wrong kit piece.

ALL OF THE ABOVE. BMF for long body details that require a straight edge. Spray chrome for larger items like bumpers that would show brush strokes and are too lumpy to lay in one sheet. Molotow pen or brush on for tiny details that are smaller/narrower than the width of the brush in use. While a lot of excellent builders dislike kit chrome, I am ok with it if it is good shape. I have been fairly pleased with Green Stuff World chrome. Both brush and airbrush. Though the squirt bottles are more wasteful than just dumping it into a sealed jar.

Well done. Single drive sleeper cab is a combination rarely seen. I had to double check my builds to figure out what was going on with the visor. I see you flipped it around. Where did you get all those gold curly Q decals?

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=1964+Pontiac+4bbl+engine&qs=n&form=QBIR&sp=-1&pq=1964 pontiac 4bbl engine&sc=10-24&cvid=18D06DE32AD9449DB421FDDC8520C35F&ghsh=0&ghacc=0&first=1&cw=1263&ch=899

I am building out four 65-66 Pontiac 421 Tri-powers. I have had success using Bing and selecting the images tab. Google is useless unless you are shopping.

Those are beautiful. You are are a level I will never get to.

Acknowledged...

Following this one.

Very nicely done. More pics would be nice.

Well done! Especially the engine!

I cannot find any with 3 parking spots and the hand railing. Do you have a link you could cut and paste here?

I mostly concur with this methodology. I use Testors rattle can decal bonder #9200. (though I am running low and have not been successful tracking down any more) The key is to give the decal some resilient strength before it has to be separated from the backing paper. Warm water and one drop of dish soap is the PERFECT formula. It keeps the decal slippery enough to move it into place. I have had some decals I messed with for an extraordinary amount of time until the were perfectly aligned. I let mine soak fully submerged, then tease it with a toothpick in the dish, until I can just get it to move from the decal paper. I am sure other techniques work just as well. I use white vinegar on the surface and a cotton swab soaked in it to push the applied decal in place. The combination of the acid in the vinegar and the dried detergent molecules make for a very good bond when dried. Once perfectly aligned, use dry cotton swabs to lightly tamp it down and chase out the bubbles while simultaneously absorbing the excess water.

I must have gotten the last of the good batches. All mine spray just fine. But then again, they are only for chassis plates and suspension pieces.

I am in. I am doing a Revel KW W900 Aerodyne with the AMT Doubles trailers. I will attempt to add the lift gate from the Ford Coke box truck.

Very nice result. The paint color and finish is excellent.

Other than the holes in the rims being too small, they look like they build up very nicely.

Thank you for hosting. To me the prize is simply getting it done in under a year.