AmericanMuscleFan

Hello, Jim: Thanks for your kind comments and following my thread! Russell: You have done your job well and keep moving at your own pace! On the math side, I'm not a teacher but use the basis, a circle is 360 degrees so 360 divided by 15 is 24 (an hole at every 24 degrees with your rotary table if you have one). Thanks for visiting and come back any time! Tim: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't call me a cheater but I started this build on October 2018 (when I put the saw in the FORD body) .All the pictures on this thread have been taken during the following months. I do have probably over 100 pics of the progress so far but I didn't want to post all those pictures at the same time. I do have just the body, frame, wheels and some mechanicals components made so I think it's pretty slow build (in my opinion). I am very flattered to be compared to a name like John Teresi and I wish I will not dissapoint you... I'm currently working on the aluminum HEMI block and heads and spent over 100 hours on these 3 parts only (my most realistic creation to date) so I will post the pictures in the comming weeks. Thank for following my thread, I am honored!!! Cheers, Francis

Hello All, It's strange, I was sure I replied to your comments last week but I no longer see my post, I'm used to doing it regularly out of respect for all of those who take the time to comment on my work but maybe I'm getting old... Philippe, Scott, Luke, Wayne, Anton, Gene, Mark, Bill: Thanks for your kinds words, they keep me plenty motivated to continue! Craig: Thanks too for your comments and suggestion about moving the thread to "Under Glass". I strated a new topic there with the same name hoping that all visitors will check the pictures in the original thread. Leroy: Just as a precision, it's 1/25 scale (JoHan body shell) and you're not false with the funny picture (milking machine) since I think Sherline is the cream of tooling for hobbyists. I hope I haven't forgotten anyone! Cheers, Francis

Thanks Gene, I spent a lot of time, sweat and scratch my head on this thing, I do really apreciate your comments (2 thumbs up are enough for me!!!). Cheers, Francis

Hello Keith and thanks for for you question! This is a hard question to answer but parts count will add-up quickly (as opposite of the building process) but it will be several hundreds. Some parts include multiple components, structural and for detailling purpose so this will affect the final count. The parts count for the 70 GTX was probably over 400 so I don't imagine that the D100 will be made with a fewer amout of pieces. Drop in regularly and you will see more progress and new pics on the next weeks. Cheer, Francis

Hello All, Rooster, Keith, TJ, Craig, Anton, Ray: Thank you for the kind comments on my build! Russel: Don't be intimidated by your lathe, I bought mine probably 12 years ago with zero experience as machining. I started by turning simple parts (mainly pulleys and straight plastic parts) and moved to more complex parts few years later when I was confident enough about my skills. I'ts still today my preffered part of model car building. By the way, thanks for you comments! With good progress on the body, it was time to move to the basic component of this build including the frame! This is one of the most important part of the build since everything will be connected to that critical part so it must be perfectly straight. The frame is mainly made with styrene strips with 4-link brackets made with 0.010'' aluminum sheets. I saw Tim Hoagland building his notorious (and sadly defunct ?) Henry J Twin Turbo on a jig (and I'm jalous of his genious) but I don't have the patience (sound crazy...) to build one so I took a lot of precautions to make my frame symetrical by mounting all parts on milling table before glueing the plastics components with Bondene. With the frame completed I will be able to makes the directions and suspensions components (to be seen in future posts). Cheers, Francis Back frame rails made with 0.100’’ x 0.156’’ Evergreen styrene strips on the milling table. Both sides are machined and drilled together for a perfect final alinment. Frame in progress. Back fender tubs in place and bed floor in progress. View of the back section of the frame showing the 4-links brackets made with 0.010’’ aluminum. They are sandwiched between layers of styrene to ensure good support. Different view, you can also see the drive shaft safety loop integrated in the frame. Bed floor in progress. The hump between the wheels tubs is made by layering a 0.022'' styrene sheet over the back frame section for perfect fit). Front section of the frame in the milling vise. This part will hold the front suspension tables (wishbone) and the Mustang II style direction (kind of K member). Wrong picture order according to the thread but these are the 4-links brackets seen in previous pictures on the milling table (4 pieces stacked and drilled together for accuracy)

Hello fellow members, I want to thanks you all for visiting my topic. It seem that this thread don't or can't be linked to the original one (exact same topic name) in the "Drag Racing Models" where all the detailled pictures and informations of the build were initially posted. If one of you (long time members) know if it's doable then don't hesitate to reply to this topic with instructions how to proceed or send me a PM, I will appreciate!!! Again, in the future I will always start the topics for my previous builds in "Under Glass" as it should be. Peter, Lee, Luke, anders, Bruce: Thank you for the positive comments, really appreciated Scott: Very happy you have taken the time to precise the information of the actual base kit (I feel you are like the guardian of my topic...?). Claude: What an ambassador you are! I really feel that I found a friend in your person! We share the same passion for cars (small and big) and I'm honnored to know personnaly the nicest voice of the radio (that's bring a lot a great memories to me with you at the antenna of the "Trafic Lourd" radio program back then)! You're absolutely right, we must all share our tricks with each others, this hobby must survive and all of the persons (and visitors) on this forum is reassuring for the future. Long life to scale model cars building!!! See the detailled pictures in: Drag Racing Models - 70 Plymouth HEMI GTX 1/25 Scale Cheers, Francis

Hello All, Philippe, Scott, Luke, Wayne, Anton, Craig, Mark: Many thanks for your kind comments for this build, they are very appreciated and keeps me motivated for my current build!!! Following the good suggestion from an experienced member Dragonhawk1066 I deceided to move this thread in the "Under Glass" category. This make plenty of senses since the car is not WIP but finished. I took a last picture today to create a last post in the hope that it will be linked to the original thread listed in the "Drag Racing Models". I found the hint (I would say) by searching in the "How To Use This Board" so I realy hope it's the right way to do this. In the future I will post all my others completed models in Under Glass (when I'll be ready to do so). Cheers, Francis

Hello All, Many thanks to each of you for your kind words about the GTX, I really apreciate your support and humor (specialy for the giant dime... it was a big job to machinate...). The GTX is done since 2018 and not WIP (maybe I should have posted in Under Glass) so I had no plan to add more pictures but I think I forgot to take picture of some elements so I post the some taken this morning. Some pictures are a little blurry since I wanted to focus an area in particular and I'm obiviously better on the workbench than behind the camera... Cheers, Francis Rear suspention and wheelie bar Trunk panel details (you can also see the gas cap and gas tank straps by the bumper opening) Hand machined American Racing slot mag wheels Under hood details made with different thickness of styrene strips Under full view Top view (Coke bottle shape)

Hello Tim, Amazing and inspiring works going on in this thread! You are in the right way for another masterpiece sir!!! I will watching until the end, Cheers, Francis

Hello to all of you guys! I'm very honored for your kind words and positive comments! It was a long process to end up with this build but with time and patience we can achieve superb results. Keep in mind that's just a hobby and when your are not in the right mood then stop working and go back when you are motivated again. I do have several other heavily detailled models including a '70 Dart Swigner 440 Wedge, '72 Roadrunner 426 Hemi, '69 Coronet R/T 440, '68 Hemi Dart LO23 Super Stock, '71 Demon 426 Hemi and '72 Barracuda Motown Missile. All are 1/25 scale with many scratch-built elements so I will try to make new threads but probably just next spring or next summer (dead season) since I need most of my time on the '64 D100 pickup I'm building. I you do have specific questions, don't hesitate (I have nothing to hide) so I will try to answer as soon as possible. Cheers, Francis

Hello! Scott: Thanks for the good words, still a lot to do but I think I'm on the track! Tim: Thank you for the compliments, it mean a lot to me comming from a master! Claude: It could also explain why I am always on time for my appointments... Thanks! Cheers, Francis

Hello All! Following the requests of some fellow members I will start a new threads of some of my completed models starting by the most recent. On this thread I will present my drag version of a ’70 Plymouth Hemi GTX 1/25 scale. I started making plastic models as a youngster in the mid seventies so I just build 1/25 scale and not 1/24 since they were not existing back then. I also want to be able to put my models side by side and don’t want to see any unrealistic proportions between them (I’m kind of purist…). I will go in outline because there are too many details to list and must save my time for my current project (remaining pictures should speak by them self). Using a promo JoHan body, I open-up the hood and trunk with a panel scriber and the back of an Xacto blade. I reproduced all the shapes and reinforcements with various thickness of styrene strips based on pictures found on internet. I also thinned the hood on my milling to make it more realistic. It was roughly 0.080’’ thick without detail since it was molded shut on the promo body. I grafted the underhood section of a newer Revell ’69 Charger Pro Modeler body since it was a perfect match for this project. I also used the floor pan because the JoHan original one was not acceptable for this kind of build. I removed the molded in gas tank and reconstructed the trunk floor with Evergreen styrene sheets. I also tried to recreate all the trunk’s details and embossings of the real car using references found on internet. On the interior, I salvaged the dash of the Charger but I was forced to create all the door panels using styrene (the cup style of the GTX promo was useless and the Charger was too different). I also used thin aluminum sheets to create a drag car interior. I pushed the realism by recreating the instrument cluster gauges with a professional drawing software (Adobe Illustrator). I found pictures of the gauges on internet and used them as template on my computer to exactly recreate them and print in high resolution (2400 DPI) on negative film (pretty crazy…). I also machined all bezels around the gauges, all dash knobs and a radio delete plate (a lot of hours spent in the interior). I machined all the engine components including the block mostly with 6061-T6 aluminum and some brass parts including the oil pan. The Dominator carb itself took me probably 80 hours to build and counts more than 50 parts including the bolts from RB Motion and Scale Hardware. The transmission is a Liberty 4 speed from Futurattraction and I machined a mounting plate for the shifter. I also machined the rear end housing, the Dana 60 cover and a full functional drive shaft including the yokes. I machined my own set of American Racing slot mag wheels with aluminum and they are mounted on wheel hubs with threaded studs and nuts from Scale Hardware. I made all direction components and rods with brass tubes, aluminum rods and RB Motion rod ends. I made the radiator including upper and lower tanks (machined) and photo etch mesh grille (we can see through). Plumbing and wiring as well plus a mirror finish EK2 Go Mango paint job with black accents. Hand made front grille support and machined headlight bezels along with front flashers and rear backup lights bezels. All glasses are made with 0.010’’ clear Evergreen styrene and embedded to the body shell for a more in scale look. Bare Metal done on all body trims including the GTX logo on the side rear fenders. The list can go on and on for hours so take the time to check every pics and judge by yourself… I surprise myself by finding details that I forgot when I look at it after some time on the shelf! I spent around 2000 hours (I’m slower than a turtle…) on a 5 years span working on and off from early 2013 to May 2018 on this build. Unfortunately, I lost most of the construction pictures after a computer crash during an OS update but you should have a good idea with the remaining pics posted. I just taken new pics of the completed model but I really think that they can’t do justice like seen in person. I will be more precautious in the future with frequent backup on USB key as I currently do for the ’64 D100 Pickup I’m building. Dana rear housing in progress Gas tank in milling vise Gas tank final Valve covers unpolished Engine block in progress Engine block front view details Intake in progress Water pump in progress Oil pan installed Spinles and brake calipers Engine exploded view Engine final. The blurry part near the headers is the clutch linkage Engine front details Alternator and brackets closer view. Resin Liberty transmission, aluminum support and aluminum Bellhousing I hand drilled all the holes (around 1000) in the honeycomb pattern promo grille using a 0.018’’ drill bit (I know I’m crazy…). Fuel pump, brass straps for gas tank and hand made housing stoppers Cool can, electric gaz pump, Optima battery and kill switch (you can see some of the trunk floor details) Dash bezels and knobs Cluster gauges installed (I put a flashlight behind to show all the gauges details) Interior in progress Interior with dash and panels in place (hand made Tuff steering wheel) Interior back panel details (all aluminum) Front bumper details including brackets Final view Final view showing mag wheels and wheelie bar Under view front Under view back Front grill details Engine bay final Trunk view final Front bumper closer view

Hello all! Bob, Håkan, Henry: Thanks for the good words and watching! My work week as jus ended, so it's time for a little update on the pickup: Back fender tubs are made with 0.020’’ styrene sheet. I wrapped the styrene sheet around a 1 1/4’’ socket with rubber band in order to get both identical. I filled the FORD’s taillights and drill a holes for the round D100’s taillights. I made the surround with a styrene tube and profiled the shape with sand paper on the lathe. I drawn the DODGE letters for the tailgate on a 0.015’’ sheet and cut them on the milling. I didn’t cut edge to edge and kept few thousandths to finish the work by hand. I sanded off the FORD letters and glued the DODGE letters one by one using liquid cement (Bondene). I sanded the edges at angle to create the embossing effect. The tailgate is functional (sorry for the out of focus picture) Closer. I did use wristwatch pins as hinge so the tailgate is easily removable and works like a charm!

Hello, Srephen: It would be very tuff to make a mold of this project because of all undercuts and nooks. I make it as an exclusive kit but I'm sure that I would be able to make money with copies but it's not the goal. Thanks for the good words! Lorne: Thank for the comments. Your wishes will be filfuled since I plan to put a big HEMI under the hood and fat tires on the back (keep watching...). Rooster: All my references are from internet searches. Just enter 61-65 Dodge D100 on Google and go to images, you will see a lot of sites full of pictures. I also search on auctions sites like eBay Motor for pictures of parts listed by sellers. Thanks for watching! Martin: I thought about it but I will put a roll cage in the bed that will connect with the section inside the cabin (will pass by the back window). I can't make a tilt bed for that reason but good suggestion anyway. I will make another thread for my last builds but it's time consuming since I want to put comments with the pictures. Thanks for your good words! Keep watching, I will post new pictures next week-end!!!

Hello all, another small update, Claude: One of the best part of the forum is sharing tricks and we all learn something from each other. If I can inspire someone then I'm super happy! Thanks for following and keep going your excellent work! Scott, Joe, Rooster and Jason: Thanks for your good words (and funny animation) they keep me motivated! Some pictures of the work in progress on the cab Inner fenders and radiator support in place. The ribs on inner fenders are made with 0.040'' half round styrene strips. Different angle of view. You can also notice the hood hinges nests near the firewall, I made them similar to the real ones. I might be attempted to make functional hinges, we’ll see… Sorry again for the blurry picture... View of the engine bay, you can also see the radiator bracket reinforcement (made with 0.020’’ brass rod). I will make the radiator with brass for thi project.

Hello all, some new pictures for the thread. Joe, Trevor, Håkan: Thanks for the good words and watching my thread! Tim: Very honored to get your comments on my build as I consider you as a Mentor. I will start a new thread for my last model but I need to take some new pictures since most have been lost after a crash of an OS update (However I still have some pictures of the construction). I want to include some comments for each picture an not just dropping pictures so it more time consuming but more entertaining for the interrested. bykr : As far as I'm concern, the learning curve was like anything else with best results with practice. You must work slowly and use your imagination to create the parts since no plans are available. You also need a good variety of tooling for every specific application but at the end it worth the investment (at least for me...). Moving to the bed, I did cut between the wheel openings and the tailgate to shorten the 8 feet FORD bed to make a 6 feet for the D100. I drilled a couple of brass pins for more strength. It would have been easier to shorten by the other end but I wanted to partially recover the rounded shapes of the wheel arches inside the box to insert the fender tubes for the huge Sportsman tires. I also wanted to temporarly keep the rear section of the FORD bed to be perfectly square while building the part opposite the back of the cabin (hope make sense to you…). Using thin cardboard I sketched the Sweptline shapes and transfer the design to 0.020’’ styrene sheets. I glued 2 per side (one on top of each other) instead of a thicker piece of 0.040’’ since it’s easier to keep it rounded. I also relocated the wheel openings and reshaped them like the D100 are. Side view with embossing done around the wheel opening and the Sweptline body line (still some fine tuning and sanding to be done). View of the embossing and details between the cab (again may not be visible but done for the sake…). Note the bottom of the fenders are rounded towards the inside to emulate the real thing.

Nice topic, Great to see some intensive sratch building one the frame/cage in order to create an exclusive model. Superb job on the rear axle too! Keep doing your great work!!!

Nice build! Love these old FORDs (specially the 63 and 64 model). Looks killer with those fat tires...

Hello Tim and Happy New Year to you and your family! Thanks for visiting my thread and for your very kind comments, they are like a blessing to me! I'm new on board and pretty exited by all the activities going on by all the enthousiasts around. I mentionned your name in my presentation but you have no idea how impress I am by all the stuff you have done so far. I consider myself as a good builder but you put the bar at a level rarely seen and I also learn a lot by just looking at your builts! Sorry to be a bit late on your current build but I will keep looking at this one closely since this is exactly in my tastes. Can't wait to see the updates on the engine. The D100 I'm building will also receive an all aluminum and brass machined drivetrain, we may be able to share some tips! Cheers, Francis

Hello all and a happy and a prosperous year 2020! Tom, Jason, Daniel: Thanks for the encouragements and kinds words, more pictures to come... I will be back to work (the real one...) this evening on night shift so I'm uploading some pictures of the floor pan. It is not installed yet since I still have some work to do on the interior of the cab. I want the floor in place with all preps done prior to painting to make the cab like a real one (will certainly be annoying at the end but I work like that all the time). Picture of the floor pan in progress on the milling table engraving the reinforcement embossing with a 0.031'' end mill bit Floor pan completed (made with 0.030'' styrene) including the transmission tunnel as per the stock cab (I may have to modify depending on the transmission choosen TBD) Same piece seen from under side. I glued 0.010’’ strips opposite to the engraving to simulate the reinforcement embossing

Hello and Happy New Year! Claude: Unfotunately I don't have acces to a real one (they are prety rare truck specially here in Quebec area) so I dig on the internet searching for references. So far I found some pictures on different restauration sites and online auction sites where separate parts are pictured. I started with the donor FORD body and the proportions are pretty close to the D100. Andy: I know what you mean... If you follow the thread you will see pictures comming in different orders since I do have to adjust things based on the build progress. Thanks for watching and for the kind words! Francis

Hello Claude! For seeing your work in person I must admit that you are quite a modeler. Super clean and precise build along with amazing color choice on every model. Can't wait to see you at the new model contest! By the way I started a new thread for my current build so you are welcome any time! Happy New Year and the best for you and your familly Cheers Francis

Good morning all! I'm updating the thread with some new pictures for the New Year's eve. As I problbly indicated earlier the body is probably 85% done but I don't want to flood the thread with 50 pictures at the same time so much more to come on the beginning of 2020. Using various thickness of styrene I recreate the radiator support. The holes on reinforcement are where the front facia will be bolted Same piece seen from the inside (engine bay). I glued a 0.010’’ styrene strip around the edge to simulate the mounting strip (weld). These are the cab supports. They will be glued under the door jamb and bolted to the main frame brackets View of the firewall View of the vent dock. You can see the recess for the brass cowl vent piece made previously. The windshield is already glued in place so a piece of thin cardboard is roughy taped to avoid scratches.

Hello again to all! Gaute: Nice Sweptline! My uncle's one was the same color and I loved it so much. Stay tuned you will see how far i tried to reproduce the smallest body detail. Ray, Larry: Thanks for the compliment! Niko: I'll try to not dissapoint you... Edgar: Thanks for watching! I do have several highly detailled models (all Mopar) but I'm a builder but not a good phothographer! I will try to upload some later maybe within another thread. Thanks, Francis

Sorry, forgot to answer you guys... Dan, Wayne, Mike and mikemodeler: Thank for the compliment, I really appreciate! Robert: I did start with the Ford since I needed a canvas and both trucks are from the same era and are pretty much indentical in proportion. I consider myself as a good builder but I still need something as a starting point (but good question anyway!). Francis