AmericanMuscleFan

Thanks for your positive comments on this build, I really appreciate! The Roadrunner/GTX is one of my favorite Mopar B-body of that era. I also have some other built models that I will post pics later so check back soon. Take care, Francis

Hello Mark, I will have to check and take some measurement with my digital caliper for the slots size and come back to you but I recall that the lug nuts (from Scale Hardware) have 0.8mm hex head size.

Thanks for you visit and comments on my builds John, you are more than welcome to check the progress on my current build the '64 Dodge D100 if you are interested. Cheers, Francis

Hello to everybody, This is a small update on the front direction and the next coming updates will be on mechanical aspect of the build. I want to push this as far I can before the nice season when the build will comes to a very slow progress (too much works all around the house)... Cheers, Francis Using a thick and hard electric sheath, I made grooves on the lathe to simulate the ribs on rubber boots for the Mustang II style direction. I turned the cutting tool at 45 degrees angle for this operation. I drilled on both ends to fit over the aluminum tube and the small brass tubes that connect with the direction arms. Boots on Mustang II style direction. The main body is made with 2 soft aluminum tubes (0.093’’ inserted inside a 0.125’’). The brass rod is 0.063’’ and move freely inside the main body. RB Motion rod ends will attach to the arms on direction components so the wheels will steer. I machined 2 mounting brackets on the milling using T6 aluminum. After some test fit I realized that the frame section between the front wheels was too wide (the wishbones pushes the wheels outside the front fenders… DOH!?!…) so I was forced to make some modification. I did cut the frame just after the cabin support brackets and before the radiator protection (end of front section of the frame). I also slice the main member (K member) and removed 0.180’’ to shorten the part. I re-glued the 2 parts of the frame and add plastic pieces to create 45 degrees angles to create the bents where the frame go toward the inside. Lot of work for a conception error but looks way better and more realistic that way. Note: This pic was taken earlier and the K member was modified to accept the oil pan (previous pics on last week last update) Test fit (K member modified). Test fit (view from under).

Good job Joe! It wasn't a big flaws but I understand how you feel about this (we always focus on the small defect and forgot all the good work done...). Do you plan to add clear coat all over the body to protect the decals?

Thanks for your kind comments John! Personally I think that the build of my 70 Plymouth GTX is superior but as we say "the beauty is in the eye of the beholder"! You can see it at: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/148434-70-plymouth-hemi-gtx-125-scale/ Cheers, Francis

It's not like dinosaur! Someone must still using these especially in an area as big as New York. I would be happy to help you more!!! Good luck with your search, Francis

Maybe there still some old school printer in your area that still used imagesetter and negative films for plate making. If you have access to a vector drawing software (like Adobe Illustrator) you might be able to create the drawing and ask them to output your file on film and do the same thing I have done?

Thanks for your greats comments on my build Jim! I was fortunate to work in the field of graphic arts and to have access to all these high level devices. With the advent of digital presses, these devices are now obsolete, but I don't know more precisely how to reproduce these gauges faces. Even with a 40x magnifier you cannot see the slightest staircase effect in the figures. Thanks again for your visit! Cheers, Francis

Thanks Jerry, I very appreciate your kind words! Cheers, Francis

Thanks for your good words José. I really appreciate! Talking drive line loop I must now admit that I can never again say that I was not aware of the position required by the NHRA. There are serious connoisseurs on this forum!!! Cheers, Francis

Another superb job on the Cuda, killer build! I'm a Mopar guy and it's one of my favorite body. I agree with you about all the work of posting all the build up pics. I got myself into this process with the '64 Dodge D100 Pickup I'm actually building and it's really time consuming but I do think it worth it. Again, great work here! Cheers, Francis

Thanks again for you good words Scott, you're always welcome! Cheers, Francis

Amazing build! A lot of attention to the details. This Maverick is simply fantastic and you are a seriously good builder. I do love those Maverick and all the small body cars with big block engines. I think that was the best era for Pro Stock cars. I will check back for your other builds, Cheers, Francis

Hello Trevor and thanks for your interest on my build! These gauge faces are custom made by me on a computer using professional drawing software (Adobe Illustrator). I used a picture of the real gauge that I found online a did use that picture as a template to recreate them in Adobe Illustrator. I scale down the drawing at 1/25 scale and printed the electronic file on negative film. The output device was an AGFA imagesetter for platemaking (print industry) and printed at 2400 lpi (line per inch). I worked 32 years as a graphic designer and had access to those devices back then but I'm no longer in this market. I don't think you can find something more accurate than this since I had even use the exact same typefaces for the numbers (the odometer read 24034). I know It's very technical but I hope it's helpful! Cheers, Francis

Don't worry Alan, I can accept advice from other members and your info from the NHRA are greatly appreciated! This build is a little bit outdated (from 2011) and I don't know if the rules were like that back then and I haven't check to be honest with you. I would be more careful on the details for a tribute car but mine are all done for the pleasure of the subject and the passion for muscle cars. Welcome anytime! Cheers, Francis

Thanks for the comments Glen! I think that every piece of aluminum or brass hide a part, just have to dig a little bit to find them... Cheers, Francis Thanks Jim, Not as extreme in details as for the GTX but I'm still proud of it for a model that I started 9 years ago!

Thanks for the comment Larry! Thanks Robert! Hello Mark, The transmission and rear end are original styrene parts but I did machined the transmission oil pan. Thanks for your kind comments! Cheers, Francis Thanks for your visit Ray!

Alan: Thanks for your kind words! You may be right about the safety loop but I've seen it in different locations (front, middle or back) and I did refer to a '70 Roadrunner under restauration for the Dart build (see pictures attached). Thanks anyway to pointed this! Cheers, Francis

Thanks for the comment Rob! Cheers, Francis

Thanks Joe! Your kind comments are very appriciated. Cheers, Francis

Hello Everyone! Following the requests of some fellow members I'm starting another thread of one of my completed model. This one is less detailed than the ’70 Plymouth GTX and it will be like that for the subsequent posts since they are older builds (you are the judge so I hope you will be indulgent for the flaws). On this thread you will see my drag version of a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger 1/25 scale. I don’t recall if I had taken many pictures during the build but I can’t find more than what is posted in this thread. I wanted to build this small Dodge pony car for a long time so I bought a resin kit on internet but I wasn’t satisfied with the rendering so I decided to start my own styrene version with extensive scratch building. I recreated the body by using 3 different kits including the recent Revell ’68 Dart Mr Norm, a used MPC ’70 Dart Ramchargers Funny Car body and the remains of a junk MPC ’71 Dodge Demon. The first operation was to cut the body of the ’68 Dart at the door line, keeping the front fenders and at the base of the back top pillars and between the back window and the trunk lid. I made the inverse operation on the ’70 Ramchargers body keeping the doors and back portion of the body. The Ramchargers front fenders were unusable because the wheel openings were enlarged and at the wrong position, close to the front bumper since it was a Funny Car body. I did cut the front fender extensions on the ’71 Demon body and glued them on the ’68 Dart front fenders. I also used the front grille, valance and hood of the ’71 Demon. A lot of operations but the mock-up picture is self explanatory. I did use the ’68 Dart floor pan as well and add large wheels tubs, recreate the trunk floor in order to add the fuel cell, an electric fuel pump, the battery and a fire extinguisher (all scratch built). The interior has been done using the ’68 Dart door panels, modified to represent a drag racing car. The ’68 Dart dash has been modified to receive the round style cluster like the Dodge Demon and instrument faces made on my computer using Adobe Illustrator and printed on negative film at high resolution (same technique as for the ’70 Plymouth GTX). I spent around 800 hours on a 2 years span working on from mid 2011 to May 2013 on this build. Cheers, Francis

Hello Everyone, After some testing I realized that the frame was too wide between the front wheels so I had to make some adjustments. I cutted the frame and main member to gain more room for the wishbones and get enough space to make sure the front wheels turn freely. I was also forced to modified the main member in order to get enough space for the oil pan. That's the kind of issues that can be encountered when building a model from zero... Scott: I do love this patina look too! Chers, Francis

Hello Mark, I didn't used heat but I first wrap the plastic strip around a way smaller socket overnight to give it the shape I was looking for (to make the styrene more docile I would say). The following day I wrapped the strip around the wanted size socket and held it in place with a rubber band and I glued the flat piece on one side. When both tubs were done I glued them in the bed floor openings and made the final adjustments. Hope this helpful, Francis

Thanks for your kind comments Ray! Still a long way to go but I think it's moving in the right direction. Cheers, Francis