AmericanMuscleFan

Thanks Tim! I didn't add much details because I found most of the technique on Youtube videos. Basically, you can do this with household products with the exception of hazardous and disgusting battery acid for the anodizing bath (I know that we can replace this by the PH- for swimming pool but I didn't test that yet). You need a power source so a car battery charger settled at 2 amps is sufficient but I purchased a variable DC power supply for more accuracy. You need plenty of distillated water and not tap water for all the operations. You can use cheap clothing dye available everywhere but results are variable according to what I read from different stories. I bought the aluminum dye on eBay but you can find everything from Caswell. I invite you to check online videos for the technique but on thing sure, your parts must be spotless (no problem here with you) to get a perfect result... really worth it! Don't hesitate to send me a PM if you want more infos, I will be more than happy to help if you need. Take care, Francis

Thanks Andy! I very appreciate your high praises on my build! I'm really devoted to this build and I still have a long way to go so feel free to come back anytime. Cheers, Francis Thanks for the thumb up Mark!

Awesome build! Really looks like your real truck! One of the best rendition of tribute of an everyday vehicle I ever seen!!! Thanks for sharing this treat during these hard days... Francis

Hello to everyone! Hope everything is going well to all of you and your relatives all around our mother earth!!! I just want to share with you my last add-on to the hobby. I wanted for quite a long time making my own anodized aluminum parts so I bought all the equipment and supplies to do so and I want to show you my very first test. I polished a 0.250'' piece of K&S aluminum square rod and I did test the red dye, I'm very happy how it turns-out. The finish is very hard, scratch resistant and shiny and won't hide details as transparent paint. I also bought blue and black dye (product specialized for aluminum) so I will have some other options for my next parts where I want to add colors instead of raw finish. I will post new pics of the progress on the engine next weekend. Stay safe during these disturbing days, Francis

Thank you very much Mike for your compliments on this build it's very appreciated! The GTX was built a couple a years ago but if you love this kind of build then I invite you to check my thread (Drag Racing Models) of the '64 Dodge D100 Pro Street that I'm current building. It's an work in progress build and I'm making a lot of aluminum/brass parts with all the infos and pics of the machining process. I will try to upload pics on a weekly basis until I reach the slow build season (May to September). Thanks for watching and stay safe, Francis

Thanks Joe! If you like my GTX then you should appreciate my '64 Dodge D100 Pickup too... I think that the drivetrain will be even more detailed. Take care, Francis

Another great build in the making Lorne! Hot Magenta sound great to me!!! Can't wait to see your next update on this truck! Cheers, Francis

Superb job, super clean and rare subject...I love that!!! I share the same feeling as you regarding the subject to be chosen for the next built and the rarity of the subject! I live at the other end of the country but it's pleasant to be reunited at the same place sharing the same passion! Keep doing your amazing job, you are a great builder!!!

Beautiful truck and nice job with the Bare Metal and the paint job! I really love this chevy body style (in fact, all early '60 to '70 truck). Keep doing your great work!!!

No matter the time left for the bench you will always find a way to surprise us with your tremendous talent to transform these raw pieces of metal to jewels! Super job on the engine so far Tim!!! Take care, Francis

Thanks for the compliment GoatGuy! Hope the class was less boring than the one I remember from my younger days! Cheers, Francis PS: I do have another thread in this category ('70 Dart Swinger Big Block Scratchbuilt 1/25 Scale) so feel free to go check it if you're interested...

This is a FANTASTIC build Kurt!!! Your attention to details is outstanding and you made miracles with everyday material so this is the mark of a great builder! I just found your build since I don't check very often this category. My current build ('64 Dodge D100 Pickup Pro Street) was first placed in this category on my first post but I had asked to the forum administrator to move it in the Drag Racing Models since it will be a racing truck. I will check frequently for you progress so keep doing your great work and stay careful during these disturbing days! Cheers, Francis

Hello Mike! Superb job on the frame and nice progress on the drive train. I always loved models made with a blend of styrene and brass/aluminum. Furthermore, it has a HEMI so it can't be nothing but a great build!!! Question: Did you weld the brass frame using a small torch or a resistance solder unit; the joints are very clean? Take care, Francis

Glad to get your visit GoatGuy and thanks for your kind words! Be careful during those disturbing days... Cheers, Francis

Thanks Daniel! You should just see the lathe and milling as an extension of your imagination. Most of these parts might be done by hands with just less accuracy but could be as rewarding. It's just an hobby and each of us must find there satisfaction at it's own way! Cheers, Francis

I think I got it with my money change at my last visit at Giant Tiger store... LOL. Thanks for visiting and your kind comments on my build Jim! Cheers, Francis

Thanks for the compliment Jim! Pistons and crankshaft might be done on my next built if I can convince myself to make an exposed engine out of the body. Cheers, Francis

Hi Tim, I'm happy to get your approbation on this one! Take care, Francis

Hi Rooster, glad to know that ultimately you don't hate me for that piece of aluminum... more of the same material to come on the next update! Cheers, Francis

Hello everyone, Today's update is a big one... the HEMI engine block. I spent an outrageous amount of time on that thing. I wanted a one piece engine block as the real one so I made a lot of cuts with different tooling. I started with a T6 aluminum block that I squared perfectly on the milling and moved on the lathe for the first rough cuts. The major part of the job was done on the milling as well using the rotary table and the angle plate for most of the cuts. Hope you'll appreciate it as much I found it challenging to made it! Take care to all of you and your relatives during those disturbing days... Cheers, Francis Using a 1.500’’ x 1.000’’ 6061 T6 aluminum bloc I started machining a a round section in order to mount the part on the milling’s rotary table. Round section done, it could become the Bell housing but I want to make it at a separate part so I will part this section at the end. I coated the rectangular portion with dye and drilled the holes of the crankshaft and the camshaft to the right position and scale as per the real Hemi block from technical informations found on different web sites. I also traces the engine block shape in the front and started to remove the extra material starting by the oil pan face (a lot of aluminum to be removed). After having milled the top portion (below the intake manifold) I moved to the rotary table to cut the pistons top deck at 45 degrees. I drilled piston holes at scale and repetition in order to get the exact engine block length. They are not functional but used as a guide for the next operations. Second side done staggered at scale as per real engine block (width of the crankshaft end of one connecting rod). Engine block's sides in progress. You can see some extra material close to front block end for the oil pump housing. Sides ribs engraved and 0.093’’ shallow holes for the freeze plugs (K & S 0.093’’ aluminum tubes will be inserted and 0.062’’ brass for the plugs). Beginning of the front engine block detail (timing chain housing). Holes are drilled at the perimeter using a 0.016’’ drill bit and act as a guide for machining the shape. Beginning of machining the shape using a 0.031’’ end mill. The other shape on the right is the part of the oil pump housing that exceeds the front engine block as per the real one. Machining in progress. Machining the top portion of the timing chain housing where the distributor is located. Distributor hole and housing drilled at 45 degrees. The distributor shaft will pass just on top of the camshaft bore hole and is aligned with the oil pump housing. Hole and seat for the oil dipstick. Machining of the engine block transmission housing. Holes for the bell housing and starter are drilled using a 0.020’’ drill bit. Engine block final with brass freeze plugs and drilled holes for crankshaft side mains bolts, oil pump and oil dipstick. Engine block seen from the other side. View of the front including hole for the distributor and hold down clamp. You also can see the engine block stamping ID shape. View of the back including the hole for the oil sensor switch. View from under including holes for the oil pan and oil dipstick.

Nice job Roger! I do love seeing these old grocery getter with slicks on the race track. This build is a superb rendering of a Super Stock drag car and another salvaged styrene body from the junk yards!!!

Hello Joe! On these challenging days we face several challenges and our personal and human (health) condition are top priorities. This is just an hobby and you did a great job to address the minor flaws (at my standpoint) on the Maverick. You are very dedicated to this build and it's more than obvious so I see no reason why this car might not cross the finish line as the real car did in it's hours of glory. Keep doing your great job my friend (this Maverick is fantastic), you're on the right track!!! Take care, Francis

Come on Joe! It's totally useless to put a thermostat in a drag racing engine... LOL Cheers, Francis

Hello Claude, I wasn't aware for the RAM cancellation but I was pretty sure that the event might be cancelled or postponed due to the coronavirus situation then we will have to catch up on the next opportunity. Talking about the radiator cap, I'm not to nervous, anyways we can't race with glycol in the cooling system but just pure water to avoid any messy spill on the track therefore water won't soil too much the engine bay... LOL. Take care my friend, Francis

Thanks for the kind comments Jim! I must admit that I'm pretty happy about the test fit for the radiator. The remaining space will be sufficient to welcome the big Hemi engine I'm currently working on. Pics of the engine block will be uploaded on my next update! Take care, Francis