MarkJ

I forgot to mention I had to make a wiper blade for it and a 4-inch half clear half black rear spoiler.

Thanks, Jason and also for checking in from time to time on the wip.

Thanks, Bruce. Now I know the things I won't have to paint on my next one because you can't see them. My next one is also a black car and the body comes black so I'm thinking about just futuring it instead of painting a black car black. I just wonder if the future will stick to unpainted styrene or if it might flake off. That would sure save a lot of time not having to paint the body.

Thanks, Steve. I appreciate you weighing in on the wip while it was going on.

Bob, actually there were three sheets. One was bigger than the other two. And they were excellent sheets. After I ordered the Elliot kit they made a Suarez kit but it wasnt the first win car.

I put the tip in the tips and tricks but it's about 10 posts down from the top and it's not in bold print.

You just need to make the parts below from styrene sheet material. I had to use 2 pieces of .020 sheet because it has to be .040 thick to work. What you're doing is getting the part you make to slide under the radiator extension duct. You install the body a smidge in front to allow this to happen and then slide it backwards into the correct position. there is enough leeway between front fender tire opening and tires to do this.

Finally finished. More pictures in the finished Nascar forum, Daniel Suárez

Finished my first Nextgen Camaro and I really enjoyed it. It took 88.5 hours, roughly about 2 months. This was Daniels first cup win car. He pretty much dominated the field for Trackhouse Racing at Sears Point. I came up with a way to hold the body to the chassis without gluing it. I will post the process in the tips and tricks forum. It's a pretty easy deal and it's not visible, except when you remove the body.

Wow, Andrew. You have some real master modeling going on here. At first, I had my doubts about this project, but it's going to be through the roof Awesome for sure.

Jed, I can describe it to you but it's better to show you with a picture. It works very well though. You will be surprised how simple the fix is.

Well, my first NextGen model is complete. I will try to take the final photos tomorrow. I really enjoyed building it. It took 88.5 hours to complete. I only had to make two scratch-built parts and device a system to hold the body to the chassis without gluing it. I will post it in the tips and tricks section after I post the final photos. Its a pretty easy solution . Its seems a shame to glue the body to the chassis hiding all the neat stuff some of you guys add to the chassis .

I hope you have better luck than I had. It did not turn out well on the model and I had to end up using future after all. I thought the test with the red truck body was good but not so much. It was more of a flat finish than a satin one.

Excellent tip. Now I can see what you're talking about. I'll have to try that. what do you use for the wires?

Ouch, Pierre. I see what you did there. Very funny. We shall see. I'm sure this microscale stuff has been around for a while. I just wonder why I have never heard of it before.

Wow, Pierre. The realism of this build is off the charts. You have a special talent for weathering for sure.

Wow, Excellent build, Steve, and one you won't see duplicated very much like the Nextgens. I can see why you are extremely happy.

Thanks, Pierre. Microscale also sells a gloss and a flat in the same product. What I like is that this is specifically designed to use as a decal sealer and thinned properly, it goes on just like the future floor finish and takes about the same time to dry. On the next model I do that I want a glossy look I will use the gloss instead of future.

Jed, I think you will be pleasantly surprised by your results. You can use your airbrush if you want, but I'm not sure how much you would need to thin it for that. It says on the bottle that you can use water or alcohol to thin it. To me, distilled water is safer for the decals.

I found an old truck body that I had sprayed with testors enamel probably 40 years ago. I polished it with 4000 to 12000 polishing pads and then mixed up a small amount of microscale satin finish which I thinned 1:1 to make it flow out better with a brush. I painted it on the door and really liked the results. It brushed on smooth with no brush marks just like future does but it gave me the satin finish I was looking for when it dried, instead of a glossy finish like future gives you. I think this will be the only thing I need to coat my finished body with to seal the decals and also provide a satin finish to the whole model. I transferred some of the microscale satin to a dropper bottle so I could mix it with distilled water. below is the product and the finished door of the truck.

I have one more thing to do before fururing, and then I might try some santin finish I bought from Micro Mark, after I try it on a spare body. All of these nextgen cars are covered with wraps that are not see yourself mirror smooth glossy. Especially this car that I'm doing.

Black insulation from paper clips? I have no clue . How bought a photo of the paper clip before you make the insulators from it. Looks really good.

Looking good. She's coming along quite nicely. Don't forget to put the seat decals on first before installing the seat it's a lot easier that way.

Always loved the black and red Bud Moore big Mercs. Yours is a fine example of one. Excellent job on the build.

I think the Camaro decals are extras for this car because the Camaro decal comes on the rear bumper decal for this model's decal sheet. I also noticed that the thin white line decal at the jack placement point is not on any of the sheets that come for this model. I ended up masking it and painting the little white lines at that location.