MarkJ

Thanks, Bob.

Pierre, my way is not better. The cars are a lot different. Your way works for a 71 GTO, my way works for a 66 Comet. I don't think my rear flares are pushed out enough. but I'm not going to change them now.

Thanks Jo. I reached out to that forum knowing there was a lot of old guys like me that might know what it was. I don't know if he is an old guy, but Spooker posted a version of it and your version will also help me come up with some kind of decal. Thanks again.

Looks awesome, Pierre. Scratch building extradonaire.

I probably will, but I want to do a little research and see what the heck it is, just for curiosity sake.

Pierre, have you any idea what M&P is? Maybe it is some kind of coffee creamer.

Thanks, Mike. Your input is always welcome.

Thanks J.C. It's definitely M-P or M&P. But what the heck is that. I think with your image I can make a decal, because even if I knew what it was the decal I make will be so small, the writing on the bottle would be illegible.

I have all the contingency decals figured out except for one. Does anyone know what the decal right behind the Holman and Moody image is and the one right below and to the right of the grey rock decal on the gold car. It looks like a brown jar with a white label and a white lid. I can't find a clearer picture. It shows up on late 1966 cars and 1967 cars.

I forgot about the white roof. You definitely don't want a very light orange roof with the rest of the car purple.

The silver looks good. Should prevent any bleed through, but if you're going with purple, you might have not had to worry about it. The chassis looks like it came in the kit. Excellent job scratching it.

Thanks, Pierre and Gerald. I guess we could cut up some sprue, but that would be painstaking. And you couldn't really do sheets. We really do need evergreen. Unless you just want to do oob all the time.

Finally got the hood flat. Added some styrene that I will sand flat to fill the voids. They are slanted so the front of the filler styrene is higher than the rear which is flush already. I will use putty for any small gaps between the hood and the styrene piece. the Southern 500 car had a stock comet metal hood. They found that there was no weight saving using the fiberglass hood with the scoops after it was reinforced so they just went to the metal hood. Plus, the fiberglass hood could have been broken into pieces that would have been hard to tape back together during a race. The car started off using the fiberglass hood shown in the picture above at the Rebel 300.

Thanks, Ian. This is one of those holy grail builds I have always wanted to do, and I'm not getting any younger. So its now, or never.

Thanks Pierre. I was lucky to get profile shots of the car. Usually, you just get a half front, half side view of most cars. And that's it.

No sweat J.C. Like I said it was dumb of me to think that nobody could figure out which car I was doing. It's actually good because now I can show the paint part of the wip.

Now that the cats out of the bag. I was crazy to think I could keep the identity of this build a secret. It was probably the only 66 comet driven in 1966. Any who, I thought I would show you the body images I made to help with the decal creation and also to help cut out the wheel openings. You just tape them on the side of the model and use them as a pattern. It's surprising how close they get these model bodies to fit a 1/25 scale picture of a real car. it has to be a really good, centered profile shot which I was lucky to find both sides of the car. The pictures are of a museum car, but the guy says he used the real Bud Moore Comet to make it, and he has the serial numbers to prove it. I have the link to the article if anyone is interested.

Man, this cage is awesome, Pierre. Much better than trying to squeeze a cage for something else in this body. About as custom built as you can get.

The top photo J. C. posted is the Southern 500 car. The bottom photo has to be the Rebel 300 car because placement of the contingencies are completely different. the Southern 500 car does appear to me that the front is drooped a little. Mute point any way because this model mounts the Front bumper directly to the body and not a frame that is not even there on this kit. so I will just mount the bumper a little higher like I originally planned to. Plus the Rebel car had the fiberglass hood with scoops and the Southern 500 car had a standard Comet sheet metal hood.

Thanks, James. You have set me straight on how they did this now. They sloped the fenders down instead of reattaching the bumper in a higher location. Kind of like they did to the Ford Talladegas. I think I could model this by cutting the fenders at the front of the doors and then removing some material from the fenders and reattaching them to the doors. It would have to be a wedge shaped looking piece of material removed with a curve in it to match the curve of the front of the door. Might just have to give this a go of it. Stay tuned. I wont do it unless I know I won't destroy the model in the process.

Thanks, Pierre.

I added a pin and hole to the rear bumper area, to help locate the bumper to the new rear panel I had to model, so when I glue it after the painting is done, it will be in the right location, and at the right angle. This glue cures really fast.