MarkJ

Pierre, this car was not a half chassis car so I can basically build it OOB. I will add headers to the engine and make it dual 4-barrel carbs and make an air cleaner for it. I might add an oil cooler to the radiator foundation. Might be a tight squeeze to add dual shocks in the front. For the interior I just need to add a simple sixty's cage and modify the driver's seat a little with a side bolster. and of course add some harnesses for seat and shoulder belts. Thats why i like sixty's cars. Not a whole lot different then stock. I wont even have to make a window net.

Finally finished with the body till the end when I will decal, and pledge floor finish it (a.k.a. future). Ended up using the Testors clear gloss acryl at 7 drops paint to 3 drops thinner and added 2 drops creatix reducer to get it to flow and get rid of the brush marks. Now I can finally move on to the engine, chassis, and interior.

Great looking photo setup. Gives background info on the car in the background. And the model itself seems to have more clarity. Did you paint the cork tile, or did it come that color? Again, I like it very much.

Another excellent one done for your display case, Pierre. Great job on the chassis getting it to fit the body like a glove and not trying to use a Nascar chassis that was chopped up to make it happen, Also the brush painting, detailed interior, stance and engine compartment all look fantastic. Nice to see one of these GTO's done. Not very many out there done because of the high degree of work to make it happen. Again, very wonderful build.

Thank you so much, Bill for the kind words. I never could understand why amt did not do a better kit for the 66 Comet instead of the 67. They did a good 65 Comet kit also, but the most famous nascar comet they made people rely on a promo deal to build it. I've seen another 66 Comet kit, but it has a red drag car on the top of the box. None of these 66 Comet kits are readily available. Thats why I decided to change a 67 into a 66. It's not quite correct and I have figured out what the slight differences are, but I'm not telling anybody. Right now, it looks more like a 66 then a 67, that's all I care about.

Thanks, Pierre. If the testors clear doesn't work out for me and I get the Tamiya I will try your recommendations. Testors says to thin their clear at 20 percent which I tried on a scrap body last night . I will see how it takes to polish sanding today.

Everything looks great. The dash and steering wheel especially. You did much better on your window net then I did. The engine fit is perfect too. Really looking forward to the under glass reveal.

Thanks, Pierre. What is the ratio of drops of thinner to drops of clear and retarder on the Tamiya?

Thanks, Jason. It's so long between builds for me I forget how to do the paint.

Thanks, Pierre. I'm going to try the testors gloss acryl as my clear. I put some on the old gto body and will see how good it polishes out before I put it on the comet. If it doesnt work very well, I will try to find some Tamiya gloss clear acryl. You have excellent results with it if I remember correctly. That is what you used on your current GTO project, correct?

Finally got all the paint done. Just need to do some small touch up work and then I can add the clear gloss acryl that I can polish.

Well, the Elmers did not work on the Comet. I had to sand off the Elmers. It's just like the big bottle of mask it. For some reason they both adhere too well to acrylic paint, but they don't adhere to enamel paint. the Elmers worked fine for the old gto model that I had painted with Testors enamel in the seventies, but it did not work on the comet as a good masking agent because it would not come off unless sanded off just like if it had been paint. I will try again with the skinny blue tape but this time close to the tape i will use a very small brush and not let the paint build up along the tape line then I will switch to the larger wider brush to finish painting the roof white again. i will do this again when masking between the red sides of the car and the black portions of the car. I already did the white roof and it turned out pretty good using this technique. I'm not giving up.

Wow again, Pierre. You matched the purple to the roof number perfectly. The decals are put on perfectly. Need to get her finished. This is going to be a one of a kind build that is going to be stunning. I did not know you had done a 60 Rex White Chevy. I would really like to see more shots of that one. He was my favorite all time Nascar driver. That is his championship car.

I was thinking about how the liquid mask was like Elmers glue so I decided to try it on an old model body I had left over in a bag from the seventy's I masked along a feature line on the old body and then put a piece of tape along the line. I then smeared some Elmers along the top of the tape and waited for it to semi dry and removed the masking tape. I waited till the Elmers dried to the touch and painted along the line made by the Elmers. when the paint dried I removed the dried Elmers and it left a straight paint line with no paint incursion like the tape has been doing to me. I did the same thing to the comet and painted it and will remove the Elmers today and see if I get good results. Below are pictures of the process. You can barely see the Elmers when it is smeared on the body, but it peels off much better than the liquid mask I bought did. You had to scrub the liquid mask off.

Wow, Pierre. That purple is gorgeous. Can't wait to see this baby finished.

You should be, Pierre. It looks fantastic, and you know it will fit the body like a glove

Pierre, I think I will try cutting my own thin strips of masking tape from some 3m blue tape I have. I think in the past I might have had some success with it. It's just a big hassle to cut thin straight strips, I'm going to hobby lobby today. Maybe some fresh Tamiya tape might work better, if they have some. It seems like lately, every time I go to hobby lobby, they have less and less items to sell for modelers. The kits are supposed to be 40 percent off today.

I keep fixing the paint and then when I wet sand I keep going through to the primer and I can't get a good line between the colors. I might just have to give up and get some rattle cans to finish this one. I'm just going around in circles and can't get finished with painting this body. It's very frustrating. Plus, this paint doesn't do well with the scriber. Instead of letting me dig the excess paint out of the door and trunk seams it just comes out all bunched up instead of giving me a smooth crevasse. Maybe i just don't have the talent for the brush painting I thought I had. I have lost track of how many coats I have put on this model.

Looks great as always, Pierre.

Thanks guys. I used some Tamiya tape but the black still found its way under the tape even though I thought I had sealed the edge of the tape with some clear vallejo satin varnish. I guess i'll just scrape it off and touch up the red and white where needed and go on to the next step, which is clearing the paint with Testors gloss clear acrylic I found and put in a dropper bottle. I will hopefully polish that and follow up with future after I decal the model. Have I told you the painting part of model building is not my favorite part of modelling?

It did a good job against bleed through but getting it off the model was like trying to remove concrete. it actually sticks to the model too well. I probably asked you this before, but what kind of tape do you use? Your making on the GTO looks perfect, and that's a super curved line you were masking.

Well, the liquid mask turned out to be anything but easy. I will just have to use tape and hope for the best. I repainted the white and red parts of the car and tomorrow I will mask with narrow pieces of tape and paint the black parts and hope that it will turn out okay. I really want to move on to something else on the build. The painting, as usual, is not going smoothly. Pun not intended. Hopefully I can get the paint good enough to put a coat or two of Testors gloss clear acryl on it and then I can polish that, and the final future will give me something presentable.

Sounds good. I actually had to go back to Vallejo because the Creatix was just too thin right out of the bottle. It must be pre thinned for airbrush use. The red on the Comet is now Flat red Vallejo. i figured the gloss clear I'm going to put on it will gloss it up enough and the future as well.

"Micro Mark mask it easy". It has the look and consistency of Elmers glue. I might have just bought a big expensive bottle of Elmers glue. You mask the area you want to paint with tape and paint the stuff along the tape and wait for it to dry a little. Then pull off the tape. it leaves a pretty sharp line of mask and if you paint using it as your mask the paint will not leak under it like sometimes happens if you use masking tape as your mask. It says if I have a hard time removing it, I should use warm soapy water. they say to wait two hours for it to dry before you paint but overnight is even better. I will find out how well it works today. Humbrol also makes a liquid mask, but I couldn't find anybody who sells it. It's probably the same thing chemically. Probably Elmers glue.

I needed that refresher course. I can see I need to double up on my thinner