Biggu

As a ‘resto mod’ …. And I agree with Hakan , personally as I have watched many of the car shows on tv ( too many says Cathy ) it seems to me to be a mix and match thing those guys do, and if, in real life a guy was to do a resto mod, I would think it would start out in the shop as two frame rails on stands waiting for what comes along to be bolted on …. Just a random thought as a ‘ resto mod’ is a blank canvas…. Open to all sorts of radical moves…. Might have to beef up the frame a bit for a double turbo V12 tho ….??

JM…….. I read your posts saying that the guys detail and do things that you find amazing……. Buddy, don’t sell yourself short, your builds have a LOT going on , far more than anything I do or can do….. first off, once you have a vision, you usually start from scratch! THEN you spend hours designing on the computer….. then print what you need from scratch THEN assemble your creation! Your design work, computer skills and modelling skills are to be well and truly to be well admired , my friend…. You are right up there as one to really watch and follow with great ideas and execution .

Paul at STSupply has a Neway setup, not sure if it is in stock at the moment or not ….. sky is the limit on this idea, Gary. Jeff

GREAT save , Ron!! Looks good from where I’m sitting. Nice job !

Incredible !

You’re making this change look real easy, James…

That refer unit is beautiful! Great details, Steve !! And all that in 1/32 scale !

Thanks, Brian, Ken did say they were filthy things.... spewed 15-40 every where... he said thick and black... ?

Not for long... I bet you well catch up.. what a fluke we are both doing basically the same truck , and are about the same distance along... HUH

NNNOOOO !!!! Doesn't look too bad........ a light scuff, and a light shot of paint and back in business..... those kids of accidents are infuriating , especially when you're trying to be so careful.... take 5 and then have a look at it when your blood pressure is back to normal.... it will be a smooth repair.....

I'm lovin this... just perfect !

Thanks , boys !!

I know how it will turn out.................... perfect like the rest of it !! I can't believe you are actually making the cooler from scratch...... I wish I had 1/100th of your skills, Brian.... this is such a fascinating thing to watch......

Next step … just dropped the 318 in …. Still a LOT of dirt and oil to add BUT I did mount the engine as per conversation on previous posts , Under the motor mounts rather than over top and the fit was great and all fit as advertised ……

Thanks Brian. It just doesn’t look as good in the photos as it does in real life. But hopefully I can fix that. The nice thing about the tooth paste thing is , it is easily controlled and comes in various abrasive grades. For a small touch ups it seems to work quite well. Thanks for checking in and your valued comments.

??not sure if this was a treat or not. Lol but I’m very glad you stopped by, Sean…. Well yes as I have the AMT Freightliner cab over kit, my plan is to use the black and gold stripes from that kit, and when it comes time to do the Freightliner it will be an old school paint and decal job for Tri Line freight from Alberta. That’s the ‘plan’ ….

It looks WAY better in real life, these macro pics, bug me , as it still looks messy, but I assure you, I gave it a bath, and it looks much better and cleaner, what you see above is it still with the tooth paste cut polish on... once I get the stripes on I think they will hide all sorts of nastiness.... the pics don't do it justice..... sorry guys..

Compare …. Altho not 100% perfect it is much much better than it was and what little bit of sputch will be covered with a stripe decal, can still needs a bath to take t/p residue off …. And it may take a couple sessions, I did another touch up and am quite happy with how it turned out and it makes any slight paint adjustments much easier

It’s an old trick I heard about years ago and it works …… it works better if the paint is a bit soft and I have only used this for enamel and NOT acrylic. …. You have to use a somewhat abrasive tooth paste like Colgate, take a QTip put some t/p on the damp end and gently rub the area you want to remove the paint from…. Keep the q tip damp and keep t/p on the tip. It is like a real fine cut polish then wash or wipe the cleaned area

Well …. It looks like it’s time to get the tooth paste out … my own fault for being sloppy I guess. I thought I had it but it seems I wasn’t quite as tight as I thought. BUT no bleed over on the door hinges or any other anomaly, which js a win but I am mad at myself for being too sloppy …. If the tooth paste does’t give me what I want I will touch it up with paint

So far ……. So good …..

Ok … today is the day …… un mask …..

Well, shucks ! That does look salvageable. It may take some thought for a new direction …. And an old truck with the paint coming off is a good thought …… this can be frustrating for sure but don’t let it stop this stop what is a very cool build. May just have to change direction a bit. I just unmasked my Hayes and have similar issues …. Keep going Ron.

BAZINGA!!!! That looks great Lee , I have to check mine and see if it has the same issue …. Glad it worked !

Ron, my fingers are crossed for a positive outcome. I have never tried the Scotch tape thing, I used to use regular masking tape but that had a hot or miss result. Lately I have opted to the. Tamiya kubuki tape, with careful placing and well burnishing done have had reasonable results. I used it on my Hayes which I shot the other day and am hoping for decent results….. maybe unmasking tomorrow….. depending on how the paint is cured. Like you, my experience hasn’t been stellar with acrylics. My go to was always Model Master enamels but now that someone thought to discontinue those, I am trying my had at lacquers, in the bottle with my airbrush, and so far excellent results … I am really looking forward to your unmasking, Ron, and my fingers are well crossed for a clean and happy result to your specifications ……???