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EngineerBob

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Everything posted by EngineerBob

  1. EngineerBob
    I used scale siding to sorta simulate tuck-n-roll but I didn't think it was very realistic. My model was more of a curb-side and I tinted the windows so you could mainly just get a hint of texture inside; worked fine for that. I'd suggest trying to find a different kit interior that you could adapt to your '58; besides it was a custom car so it wouldn't have to be exactly '58 Chevy.
  2. EngineerBob
    I would also like to know where to get that trailer/camper?
  3. EngineerBob
    Welcome to the forum. Nice job on those models! They definitely don't look like a first-timer built them.
  4. EngineerBob
    Beatiful! Extraordinary body mods and the ability/access to getting chrome plated parts really takes it over the top.
  5. EngineerBob
    CountryJoe, as DaveG mentioned a "boss 427" is a relatively modern Ford 351 small block engine stroked to 427 cu in while the 427 FE is a vintage big block engine which came in a number of different cu in sizes. If you have accurately scaled engines then the FE should be physically larger on the outside even though they are both 427 cu in. If you want a physically large Ford engine then consider a Boss 429 (the hemi-head version) or a 427 SOHC, they both have big blocks but very large heads. Or if you really want to be large and different then try a vintage 331 hemi with six carbs on a log manifold.
  6. EngineerBob
    Thanks. Initially, I was going to make a more traditional competition coupe (like this: ) but I couldn't not use the Willys front end and then I had to have a body in the middle and then I got creative.
  7. EngineerBob
    OMG, that model is fantastic. Thanks for pointing it out. I can't compete with that though!
  8. EngineerBob
    Thanks. It was fun to do a paint job that you couldn't really mess up, just keep adding layers to cover any mistakes instead of starting over on some of my previous shiny paint jobs.
  9. EngineerBob
    I couldn't agree more! I think Rick Dore is the best builder of hand-built, full-kustoms out there. Any of his cars would make a great model kit. Now that you got me thinking about it, I may have to put a Rick Dore style build on my list of future models to do. His sweeping enclosed pontoon-style fenders would be interesting to try and duplicate.
  10. EngineerBob
    Thanks for the info. One of your pictures shows you using styrene sheet as a pattern, great suggestion. Do you make a custom shaped sanding stick to get such crisp lines?
  11. EngineerBob
    I'm sorry to say that I passed over this topic when I first saw it since a '20s classic car doesn't interest me but, wow, I love the scratch-building and theme that you've done so far. Your description and photos are full of good advice for any modified model. Thanks for posting.
  12. EngineerBob
    Wow, I've always loved fastback body-style kustoms but yours takes it to a whole other level. Great job combining parts to get the look you wanted. I'm especially blown away by how clean your created body lines are. What tools and/or methods do you use to get such crisp sculptures?
  13. EngineerBob
    Thanks. I probably made the most changes from the starting model on this than any of my previous models and the shape ended up pretty much matching my vision. You can see here the yellow is the original 33 Willys.
  14. EngineerBob
    Cue the rimshot "ba-dum-tssshhh".
  15. EngineerBob
    Thanks, it's all about being different with a rat rod.
  16. EngineerBob
    Good call, thanks for the info! I just did an internet search and both the '62 Impala 2in1 and the '62 Impala 3in1 have the same oval finned air cleaner (it's technically for a two 4-barrel set-up rather than a single 4-bbl but pickers can't be choosers; maybe I'll put two 4-bbls on my wife's car ). There'd be some good kit-bashing parts left over with either of those kits too.
  17. EngineerBob
    Gotta admit that it didn't even occur to me to try and make one from scratch; thanks for the idea. I'd still like to know if there is a kit with one, which would be easier for me.
  18. EngineerBob
    I'm sure that with so much encyclopedic knowledge that there is on this site someone can point me to a kit that has an oval finned air cleaner similar to this one (doesn't have to be chrome since it will be painted black)? For the first time ever I'm going to try to accurately model a real car, my wife's hot rod ( as opposed to more fantasy cars I usually work on).
  19. EngineerBob
    Great looking model! I love to see such well executed kit-bashed models.
  20. EngineerBob
    Thanks, slusher. Unique and not out of the box is what interests me the most and, based on ideas I've gathered from this Forum, I've been confident enough to try more complex kit bashing.
  21. EngineerBob
    Thanks for noticing. I had finished and had plenty of small details that only showed up from 12 inches away, but, once I took the close up pics I realized I could have put even more detail in if I wanted to get carried away (maybe on the next one).
  22. EngineerBob
    The armor was left-over diamond plate from a parts-box trailer floor that I cut up (probably the Daytona Transport Truck).
  23. EngineerBob
    Thanks, CT. That's what so fun about modeling, some random idea popping up in your head and then you get to make it a 3D reality (sort of).
  24. EngineerBob
    If you can view the image on your monitor at least around 4-6" square (viewed at 100%, not an enlarged screen view) and it's not pixilated then it will print at small scale just fine. I look for images that are approximately 800 x 800 pixels on an image that is about 6" square on my screen but that varies based on the original image size. In Google image search you can use the Tools to choose the image size that you want to look for. You can choose 'large' and be sure that the images will have plenty of definition but simple block letter type logos don't need to be as high quality to start with.
  25. EngineerBob
    I've made my decals just by pasting desired hi-def photos onto a blank Word document. Word has more than enough tools to manipulate images for decal use. Then, using the rulers in the margins, I shrink the photos to an approximate size and print a test on plain paper. Cut out the paper 'decal' and hold next to your model to determine how much, if any resizing you still need. On the Word doc decal sheet I make a copy of the decal that I'm resizing and place it next to the original so I have a reference to see how much I need to increase or decrease the size. Once I get all of the decals the desired size I delete all of the un-needed and wrong size images. I then size the Word doc to 4" by 6" with very small margins and group the decals to waste as little decal paper as possible. Cut a sheet of decal paper to 4x6 and print at your best or highest quality printer setting just as you would a photo. Good Luck.
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