The Creative Explorer

I meant for the normal passenger car, I can see the 4x4/SUV/Trucks going a bit bigger, but for a normal passenger car in the future, I think it will stop at 20"

Academy has a very cheap, low detailled 250LM is you're interested in a LM (Which I think is a beauty)

It is a Revell/Italeri kit, what kind of information are you looking for? I can tell you the body is one piece, the rest of the parts needs to be glued in and preferably painted, they are all molded in styrene, except for the tires and it came in a carboard box

Thanks guys! i've not been posting so quickly new updates for a long time, I think I am back to building again after a long time of absence, finally recovery The body work is I believe in it's final stage, I need to work on the ribs on the side and then it should be ready for primer. After that, fixing the doors and I can start working on the paintjob. And some work got done on the engine, still basic work, but when I am happy, I can work on the detailling of the engine.

I think it is the Airfix/Italeri 928

Depends where you live, they pop up over here quite regurarly and Revell made also a streetversion.

My pointer wasn't meant as critisicm or anything negative, just a heads up if someone actually was going to use more than the nose.

On the wheelsize side; when browsing yesterday through some of my kits, I discovered the Lamborghini LP400 (seventies) ran on 14 inch wheels. 14 inch on a supercar! My hot hatch from the '80's ran on 14", my dull stationwagon comes standard with 17" in 2004 and I believe the 2013 modelyear comes with 18". Even though the wheels are growing, there must come sometime a stop to the growth, I don't see us driving on 22-24 inch wheels on our normal dailcars in 10-20 years from now.

I wouldn't be using this picture too much as a reference, since it isn't a Daytona ;-) It has the front end of one and a wing, but it is a convertible, sits weird on its wheels for a Daytona and the R/T badge is (IIRC) in the wrong place. And IIRC, the Daytona came with a benchseat and I am not sure buckets were available as an option.

And another one, actually three http://link.marktplaats.nl/677397602

@Dave and Bob, sorry but i couldnt see your replys, thanks though... @Bob, i dont really know, i think it is from a Model T kit.

Finally! The part of modelbuilding that excites me most has come, painting! All those uniform colored parts come to life and when being put together, creation is starting Again, it is only a small update, only a few pieces of the engine got put together, but it is a start.

I don't care much what happens to the hobby when I am gone, what interest me more is to what happens to the hobby whilst still alive. If there are no successors or new modelbuilders, they hobby will die before I do. And that will suck bigger

No need to if you mask them. I can't make a straight line either, the trick is to mask the strips and windowrubbers, then paint. Gives a nice smooth and straight line.

This is how the set-up should be on your exhaust side. The red arrow goes to your exhaust and the blue arrow goes either directly to your carburettor or intercooler. Simple set-up, bit like how yours should look like. Note: there is no Intercooler in this diagram.

Looking at the pictures, I noticed the turbo-setup and I get the idea that you don't have it correctly. I read somewhere that you don't know how the setup works and that's ok. We all need to learn. What a turbocharger does is, sucking in air and blow it into the cilinders, the scoops needing to do that, are driven by exhaust gasses. Simplified, that's it. So what you need to do, is to connect the Turbo to the exhaust manifold and the intake. Basically, the set-up you have for the exhaust seems to blowing cold air into the exhaust or use a aircleaner as a muffler. The exhaustmanifold needs to connect to one halve of the turbocharger and redirect to the exhaust. That shouldn't be too hard. However, the front of the turbocharger needs to connect to a (cold) air intake and redirect to the intake. Here is where you need to decide where the carburettor is going to be, is it going to be in front or behind the turbocharger? In this case, I think behind the turbo is better and blows pressured air through the carburettor. If a intercooler is used, the turbo needs to blow into the IC and from the IC to the intake. I hope this helps a little bit, I am trying to find you a picture.

I don't understand all the fuzz about it, if you look at the history of modelkits, it is quite likely it is going to be the same 1/12 Camaro as we know it from previous releases, combined with some new wheels and decals. I guess that is it. Nothing more, nothing less. No Foosified body, no RS grille, (both unfortunately IMHO). We don't know for sure, but that is my bet.

Another tiny update; I started to work on the engine in between the glue and bondo drying times. When browsing through the manual and the parts, I discoverd the Kubel had one tiny carburettor and didn't look all that beefy. Time to dig through the partsboxes and after some thinking and digging, I came up with a carburettor set up of a 1/12 Chevy Bel Air, luckily I have several of these kits, so 2 more carburettors were quite quickly cut out the other Chevy's boxes. I believe this set up doesn't mismatch the engine and with a nice aircleaner on top, I guess it will fit right in the theme and it sure does will look a whole lot better than the stock part. I already did discover that the airbox on top of the engine needs to be seriously lowered, after the sectioning, it doesn't fit no more Some pictures to give a rough idea: P.s. I can appreciate some feedback, it is nice to know what you think and can use the input in this build.

It is clean again

After inspecting, I guess I was hit by a new hacker, working on getting all the Iframes out. Sorry.

Thanks, and I agree, but I just have some more difficulty with jointlines I guess, I just haven't found the right trick for it. About the website: It was hacked many moons ago, but it is clean and if you check it online through a virusscanner, it should come out as a clean site. It is just annoying that some antivirusthingies, don't refresh and give it a green light.

A tiny update, I've been doing a lot of work to it, but it basically doesn't show. Today I laid a coat of primer on the body, to see how bad the seemlines are and I keep having problems with it. I put back some bondo on it again and I guess I got my work cut out for the weekend.

Because? A: A foreign US dollar is not as much worth as a US US dollar? B: Foreign people might get angry when you misprinted an ad and fly a airplane in your house? C: The world outside the US is scary? D: you're just too lazy to fill in the customs form? Not meant to bug your butt, but don't you think that conclusion is a little bit shortsighted? Except for a customsform, there is no difference in a transition national or international. At least not for the seller.

Once in a while, we have races with those Morgans at the Dutch TT track, when wet, a sidecar from the same period goes faster, but when the track is dry, those Morgans seriously have some power. They get the smallest female persons they get and stuff them on the passengerside on a little seat, as low as possible, to act as counterbalance. It looks very strange.

Thanks! It isn't (yet) frustrating, just taking my time and do piece by piece, without rushing it to a finish. It takes time for glue to do its work and I can make progress. So, nothing that frustrates yet, hope to keep it that way too It is not going to be a particular hotrod style to begin with, I am going to try and blend the military rod, ratrod and showrod together in one project and hope I can pull it off. And it will have some Dune-Buggy features as well, mainly engine area. The wheels will be typical ratrod style, the body will be like a kubel, the interior simple, but with a gloss and wild paintjov, that will get a mixture of camo, skulls and true flames. I have some idea's in my head, but this is a project where things need to 'flow'.