Jon Cole

Mike, consistently implying that the type of model you built this time has some responsibility for the quality of the finished model is, at best, a copout. A model is a model… it doesn’t matter if it’s a Cord, a Chrysler, a Camaro, or a Corvette. It all takes skill and patience to do a good job. Constantly implying that you will stick to other cars that you are more familiar with (“i probably will stick to building what i normally buildâ€) won’t help you much if you are not willing to learn.

Sa-Weet!

Nice photos. WELL LIT photos! Thanks for sharing Tommy!

Thanks for posting these!

Harry, I doubt he will handle any "constructive criticism". We have seen this before. It always turns out the same. They say they want "constructive criticism," but if said criticism is anything less than 100% glowing, all you-know-what breaks loose. BTW, I went back and looked at the Cords in question. I'm going to leave it with that.

So bummed out I wasn't able to make it this year. My first non attendance in over a decade.

That... about sums it up! Combine that, with the response by the op to Harry's comment, and it explains a lot. If it means that much to the op, then -bump- it back to the top.

Ambitious, yet feasible!

I agree on disdain of 'floating' wires. They invest all kinds of detail, but forget to add gravity!

Unless you are cutting open body panels, the only part of the powerplant that will be visible is the top. I used the upper half of a show truck block... ...and made a platform to get it at the height I needed. I used Chaparrel resin wheels from Perry's; rears on the left; fronts on the right. I moto tooled the widths down to flush with the tires. This is a vintage kit, with slot car roots that go back to the sixtees. I was aiming for a decent shelf model.

The body seam between the front fender and rocker that you circled on the diecast... is indeed present on the 1:1 car. What is not present is the style line from the side intake, along the rocker to the front wheel opening. But really... it's splitting hairs.

So in other words, you don't drive all freeway miles

Nice Boss TA, Phil! Got any more photos? The link doesn't work.

I also got tired of my deuce coupe looking like a clone... ...but I'm now stylin' since I replaced my artillery wheels with pie plates; and my headlights have been swapped out for candlesticks.

Funny how we often refer to (our) diecasts with an apologetic tone. I don't apologize for the diecasts I own... I like them... I'm a car guy, and I also build models. Diecast is just a part of scale cars.

Glad to see this car getting the full-on detail treatment. Also glad you found my photo album! That is what they are there for!

And THAT... is why we have lawyer jokes! Because they don't have bigger fish to fry!

This just shouldn’t be happening in this day and age of computerized scanning and mapping. Is this the way Trumpeter operates? Because to me, it seems like at least some of the industry employees on that side of the pond still think the way to engineer model kits is to copy the Otaki / Arii / Edai design philosophy. In other words, they need to start understanding who their market is… or better yet, who their market is NOT. Adult builders should not buy these. After the Bonneville & Nova fiascoes, they should have learned their lessons. This is the fault of their staffing and management.

I see floor mats! And... dead people. But mostly floor mats.

Jason, that is going to be a great hearse! Of course, you do have some more detail work and clean up to do. There is a crease that needs to be filled. If a crease needs to remain, I suggest the crease stays horizontal, perhaps disappearing as it transitions from front to back. Also, the triangular area needs to be cleaned up. Don't give up! This has great possibilities.

Oh man, is that out of whack! First thing I noticed the chassis pan is lacking detail and crispness. I have seen $10. diecast with more chassis detail. As stated above, the windshield is missing the wraparound at each end. And that is where I quit looking; because something tells me... there is probably more.

Well a few of my favs... X-100 Connie... NOT the Kennedy car

I couldn't agree more, Mark! I am currently trying to rescue a large tube of Evercoat 2-part; it is drying out. I have been adding resin. Next time I open it up... it will either be good; or garbage. Thanks for the Bondo brand recommendation! I will look for that.

I love the smell of Bondo in the morning. Smells like... victory.

Decals... Possible, but with limitations. The "pro" custom decals you may see here are most likely composed in a computer art program such as Corel Draw. Those take time to master. Harry, our moderator has done a tutorial on the process. Now, even IF you had all that skill, you would still need something called an ALPS Printer... which are no longer made. Plus, very difficult to buy supplies for. However- you can still print decals! Just no white, shiny gold or silver. White or clear decal film is available that can be used. Some will run it through their home printer, then top coat it with a fixative spray. I prefer to print my art on a 'master', then take it; and my decal film to a copy house, and let them print it. Expect some hesitation from leery employees, who worry that the decal will foul their copier. I have never had a problem with that. Works fine every time.