Casey

These are the link options you have available and showing in your PB album: Links to share this album Email & IM HTML Embed Flash Embed Slideshow I have no idea if those are the default Link Options or if you selected them, but none of them are of any use if you plan to share your images on a forum. Do as Hakan suggested, and specifically select the "IMG code" option, even if that is the ONLY option you select.

Very nice work, Pavel.

Love this. I can (have) gotten stuck watching YouTube videos of Russian amphibious vehicles for hours on end.

Does this kit share parts with other AMT tractor kits (maybe the Peterbilt Pacemaker 352 and/or Kenworth K-123?), similar to how the AMT Diamond REO and White Road Boss kits share suspension, axles, wheels, etc.?

^^^ This setting in a Photobucket account allows the user to one-click the IMG link and copy it, instead of clicking Control- or Command-C to cop it. As Hakan said, you probably need to go into your PB account profile and manually select that feature. I don't have any trouble posting PB images, either, but if either of you are having issues and are using Internet Explorer as your web browser, PLEASE read this topic first: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81824&page=3

Perfect. Thanks, Gary. That reinforces the fact that I made the flatbed frame wrong, at least as far as how I was thinking of attaching it to the truck's frame. This is my first "big" truck project, so it was expected to be a learning experience, and I've already learned a number of things which I will put to use on my next build. I picked up some basswood to use for the wooden sleepers and added another thin styrene strip lengthwise under each main rail of the bed frame, so I have just enough clearance between the rear tires and deck once the sleepers and bed frame are set in place. This is a dog's eye view, so the clearance between tire and frame is a big exaggerated, but the two are not touching: The treadplate deck has been bonded to the frame, cut to length, and both ends squared up. I need to add some loops/brackets for the ramps (which I also still need to make), and add a few more details, including a winch to load and unload the car. I'll have to do some research (I've been lurking over at Hanks's 'site) into which type of winch would be correct for the early '60s, but I don't plan on adding too many things to the deck area. I also started thinning the fan belts, but I'm not sure how much further I'm going to go with this, especially since the belt loop I've already started actually consists of two belts. I have an idea for creating a better belt and pulley system, but I think I will wait until the next C-series build to try it out. After twenty or thirty minutes of tedious work, one section of the belt is done at least.

I was inside the West Bend, WI store today and they expanded their plastic models aisle again. Lot's o' stuff to chose from here.

http://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/291/amt-719-diamond-reo-tractor

Here's a small pic of the box side, and it looks like a small supercharger with an offset, cone type air filter setup, as on Mark's build: Is the image you have of the resin intake setup uploaded to your PB account? If so, which album is it stored in?

I noticed that had changed semi-recently (at least I think it did), but not sure why. Perhaps Gregg changed the maximum number allowable per post?

I believe Vinyl Nation Decals has what you are looking for, though they are not a water slide decal, but rather a vinyl sticker which is applied in a similar manner. I think the make them in custom colors and widths/diameters, too: http://vinylnationdecals.storenvy.com/ And don't you spell it "tyres" across the pond?

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13818&p=128646

The Paddy Wagon pictured is a die-cast model, not the 1/24 Monogram kit. Here's the Monogram model: To make things even more confusing, Monogram, AMT and MPC all released "Paddy Wagon" kits, and all were different. Here's the MPC version, "The Paddy Wagon" which is a replica of the Carl Casper 1:1 car in Harry's link above:

I didn't waste any time removing the chrome from and narrowing the Dayton(?) wheels I got in trade from Steve Prideaux (great trader alert!). The dual rear tires were a loose, sloppy fit on the kit's rear wheels, so I removed some width from both the inner and outer wheel rings, and now the tires are a nice, snug fit on the wheels. I'm sure two rear tires (barely) touching sidewalls on a real truck wouldn't be the best idea, but no worries about that in 1/25 scale. With that problem solved, I drilled the rear wheels' inner bore a bit deeper, mounted them to the axle tubes, placed the rearend under the rear leaf springs, and dropped the flatbed frame in place...and found I hadn't gained much more tire to bed clearance. I'll need to add some sleepers as Andy and Gary suggested above, as the bed's width is fixed, and raising the bed slightly will provide a reasonable amount of clearance. I still may remove a semi-circular section of the bed rails over the rear tires, but I need to find some basswood for sleepers first. I used some .070" popsicle sticks between the truck's frame and the flatbed's frame, and just barely got enough clearance between the bed rails and rear tires: Doubling the sleeper thickness to .140" gave ideal clearance...: ...but 3.5" seems awfully thick for sleepers. I was thinking 2" thick at most, so that's .080" in 1/25 scale. Hmmmmm...suggestions and advice would be most welcome at this point. I was looking at the interior tub last night and though it looked way too plain, even though you can't make out much detail in the cab area due to the full window "glass" and it's overscale thickness. That never stopped me before, and it won't now. I decided to freelance a bit and add some texture on the door panels, as well as giving them a bit more thickness. I grabbed some ribbed board on batten styrene sheet I bought for another project, cut some rectangular pieces for use as faux ribbed door access panels, and glued them in place. Next I filled in the area around the ribbed panel with .020" plain styrene sheet so there'd be some height/depth differences between the two areas, and topped off the forward edge with a piece of half round styrene for a little extra detail. In all honesty, I cut the piece of .020" styrene a little too short, so I need something to fill in along the top edge. The dashboard's bottom edge has a half-round shape, so it seemed like a good idea at the time to use some half-round. I'm not sure if it'll stay as is and be matched on the driver's side panel or if the gap beneath it will be filled and blended with the surrounding panel area, but here's what the passenger's side looked like with the now primed bench seat in place: The driver's side with both door panel pieces glued in place: The engraved floorboard detail was not the best, so out came another piece of ribbed styrene, this one with different rib and gap spacing. I'm attempting to pass it off as a heavy, ribbed rubber floor mat, so thank goodness for that thick window "glass." I made the floor mat two pieces, which I will leave loose until final assembly: I stuck with the kit-stock Ford wheel, since both Studebaker steering wheels I had looked too small, but I was able to get it joined with the steering column yesterday, so that awaits final detail painting. I removed the door handles and window cranks from an AMT '60 Chevy pickup's door panels, and might re-use the kick panel vents in the cab, too. The rear package shelf could use something, but I don't want to add the usual interior junk, so maybe an aftermarket rear window defroster or similar...TBD later.

Oops, you're correct. Not sure what I was thinking of... At least Monogram got some mileage out of its 1/32 scale kit:

It could be anything ingredient which is causing your headaches, so I'd suggest you check the MSDS label for the paint you are using, find out what the ingredients are, then go here and chose the filter which you feel would work best: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UgxGCuNyXTtOXMEm8TEEVtQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Got a bunch of Ford C-series parts from Steve Prideaux, and this poster:

The '90s Mercury Capri shared a platform with the Mazda Miata. The Mercury LN7 was the EXP's sibling, but has only been done by Monogram in 1/32 scale:

I'm going to move this to the Truck Kit News & Reviews section, since we've done the same with the AMT tire sets in the Car Kit News & Reviews section.

Good to hear. Thanks for the update, Carlos.

Hard to say, but I would guess this poster was intended to be a hobby shop or store display. I'm no IMC expert, but they had a brief moment of glory when Budd Anderson was there, then the company seemed to fizzle out by the early '70s, so there's not nearly as much ephemera for IMC as there is for Monogram, AMT, et al. Either way I would frame it, hang it up, and enjoy looking at it.

The name for the Pontiac GTO option came from the Laugh In skit, so they are related. The "very interesting" and "sock it to me" mini posters are Laugh In tie-ins, too, but I got nothing on the "Running Bare Park" poster as far as being Laugh In related. No idea on the posters, but I wouldn't mind seeing others.

Good memory. There is a mini poster like this on the 1/20 IMC Dune Buggy kit's decal sheet:

The 1/6 scale HAWK die-cast, pre-painted Ford Flathead kit is #11081, and was produced. The 1/4 scale HAWK (Lindberg) transparent plastic Ford Flathead is kit #11090, and was never produced, per Brett's confirmation above. You can view them both in the 2009 Lindberg/HAWK catalog here: https://www.krick-modell.de/Endkunden/92218%20Lindberg-Hawk%20Katalog%202009.pdf