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Casey

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Everything posted by Casey

  1. I guess it is true- Chevy does run deep. My Mom owns an '84, so I'll just be quiet now.
  2. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64307
  3. Yes, we all do. It's something we agree to when we want to become part of this modeling community. A small price to pay, I think. There's an existing topic for that, right here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55108
  4. Joseph had a Vector wheel printed, which you can check out here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65897
  5. Your question, and a good answer, is in the Question & Answer section: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67587 Also, please add your full name to your profile or signature line, and turn off your Caps Lock key, please.
  6. There should be a date on the box or the instruction sheet. 1996 is listed as the date in one current eBay listing.
  7. Same thing applies to standard cab, longbeds. Great for construction companies, but since almost half of truck owners use them for hauling people, not "stuff", the days of plain jane, bare bones trucks are dead. You can always swap in a manual trans, too, if you want one badly enough. There's no reason you can't customize the transmission to suit your liking, just like you can change the wheels and tires.
  8. I think you answered your own question. People prefer the styling of the Camaro over the Corvette, so the latter borrows styling cues from the former, regardless of which is the brand's "flagship" model. As long as the Chevy model's names all start with "C" or are named after Florida counties, it's all good.
  9. There are so many unknowns to those of us on the outside looking in, some of which you touched upon, but using the Monogram '36 Ford as an example... 1) What condition are the molds in? (good in this case. This kit's been reissued a dozen times or so) 2) Are there inserts for the original, stock wheels and tires (styrene, IIRC), or have the molds been irreversibly changed? 3) How much would it cost to change the molds/tooling back to the original issue version? 4) How many more kits would Revell sell in the original version compared to the sales numbers from the most recent "Car Show" reissue? 5) Would such a "backdating" make financial sense over the short term, or even over the expected life of the tooling? My feelings? In the majority of cases, speaking of Monogram/Revell kits, I doubt it makes financial sense (i.e. money invested to backdate tooling is far greater than potential profits from said of backdated kit) for Revell, Inc. to do any backdating and/or major mold/tooling work. I also think condition of the molds and lost/missing inserts is a major issue, too. My gut tells me keeping the entire inventory of Revell, Aurora, and Monogram molds/tooling organized is a full-time job for someone, and what about maintaining it all? Does Revell, Inc. have a staff of workers whose job it is to maintain the tooling, prevent corrosion, and repair molds if necessary? I have to wonder if every single piece of tooling is accounted for and identified, so they know exactly what they have, and what can and cannot be used...which brings me to another thought- what if all the tooling for these kits you long for are either too far gone to repair, or have already been scrapped? The other thing is that these "6 'n 1" and "3 'n 1" kits aren't really all that different from what Revell is offering today. Yes, you may not be able to get all the parts in one, single kit, but with the options we have available these days (this forum , eBay, swap meets), it's not too difficult to procure the extra, optional parts you desire. Often times the "Drag" and "Custom" tires are the same, the engine differences are minimal, and in the case of the Monogram '36 Ford, they're "doubling" the number of build options by including the greenhouse as a separate piece. That's kinda cheesy in all honesty, as I think most people would prefer the coupe and to have the top/roof molded as one with the body, instead of needing to fill and blend the gap between the two. It's really a 3' n 1 kit, with an optional greenhouse. I think we older modelers tend to look back with our rose colored glasses, and our focus narrows in on what we want as older adults, versus what the majority of the model buying public wants. Unless we can get answers from someone on the "inside", we'll probably know why certain kits are reissued and others aren't...but we can sure discuss it.
  10. NASCAR is probably the most covered genre in the aftermarket, at least it was in the '90s. You could buy decals for thousands of cars/paint schemes, and there is plenty of photoetched stuff, too- roof flaps, hood hinges, scribing templates, grilles, etc. You could spend a few hours on eBay alone looking at all the NASCAR-specific aftermarket items.
  11. Send a PM or an e-mail to Kevin, who runs Missing Link.
  12. D-5 “The Directory of Model Car Kits & Price Guide” - 1/24-1/25 sc kits - 5TH Ed. - Coulter & Shelton 25.99 Is that Bill Coulter in Coulter & Shelton? And how many manufacturers' kits are covered in this book(?)? $26 seems cheap for all that info.
  13. I was hoping nobody would bring that topic up. I'm sure there will eventually be a convertible version, much like Revell did with the '69 Camaro kits.
  14. The AMT '69 Chevelle SS396 kit has Rally wheels with separate centercaps, but the wheels are 14" IIRC.
  15. They will be. The Modelhaus is pretty much a standard to which other aftermarket businesses and resin casters are compared, and for good reason- they make excellent quality products. Nick, take a look through the Resin & Aftermarket section, or even better, do a search in this section using "modelhaus" (but leave the quotation marks out) and you'll see what The Modelhaus is all about, and what other forum members have to say about them.
  16. Hard to say, either way to be honest. The monotone of the gray test shot plastic in non-natural light may be playing tricks on the eyes, too... At first I thought the depression in the doors for positive location of the side view mirrors was a little odd, but then I remembered how many times I built the 1/24 Monogram '70 Challenger and didn't get the mirrors positioned correctly when I glued them to the doors before painting the body...too late once it's time to apply the decals.
  17. The pickup has received very little attention because the B-pillars, rear roof area, and rear window all need to be modified/created, and I was hoping to find a "Fired Up!" Super Zinger (FUSZ) body to save myself some work. I passed on two glue bombs on eBay, as well as a third unbuilt version for $59.99. , bit I got lucky at Model Empire's open house Sunday and picked up a built FUSZ from which I will use the upper body/roof area: I will need to remove a vertical section to shorten the cab/roof, but the rear wall angle appears to be pretty close to stock, and the corners are already done. Once I get the van body done and a copy cast, I can use the lower half of the van body casting on the pickup, then I will only need to fill in the bed area...or cheat and add a tonneau cover.
  18. Seems like it doesn't recognize the views until a reply is posted...
  19. It's from 1965 or so...so old. Not the best kit, but it does have some neat parts and builds into a semi-believable '60 era drag car.
  20. Let's not equate skill with age, but rather try to match the 14 year old's building experience with a kit that matches. The Revell '57 Chevy Bel Air, '34 Ford, '77 Monte Carlo, '63 Corvette, '69 Camaro, etc.-- any of their modern snap-together kits, really-- would be a good first choice. They fall together and the bodies are molded in color, so no spray painting is required. If you feel he is ready for something a bit more advanced, the suggested AMT curbside kits would be another good choice, as would the Revell '85 Camaro Z/28, which is basically an advanced snap-together kit. I don't see any dumbing down in these suggestions, and I don't see any harm in starting with a kit which may be a little bit too easy. I'd rather see him complete the kit, and if he wants to build another one, help him find something a bit more challenging as his skills grow.
  21. This current version is pretty much the CA Wheels version, with it's larger diameter wheels and tires, custom decals, and not much else in the way of optional parts. The hardtop is happening in the next version and the Big John Mazmanian 'Vette is the perfect choice for a drag version. The body is close to stock, Revell has released previous BJM cars, and the rear wheel wells could be handled as they are on the '68 Hemi Dart kit. When is Revell announcing it's 2013 Fall releases?
  22. Fixed it for you...and you're old if you know the acronym. Is "down by the lake" a Chicago and/or IL thing, too?
  23. I think warsh is a colloquialism. It's only a matter if time before a member from the 'burgh drops "yinz" on us.
  24. Thank goodness Chuck didn't mention Vaseline (pretoleum jelly), Q-tips (cotton swabs), Band-Aids (adhesive bandages), Kleenex (facial tissues), nor Scotch tape (clear adhesive tape), too. I just goes to show how languages are fluid, things are always evolving, and sometimes brand names fall into favor as the generally accepted word for a more general item. Since we're ranting, I'll add one: 1) 95' Camaro = 95 foot Camaro, not an abbreviated version of 1995, The correct way to type it is '95. It also works for words such as 'stang (Mustang). 'cept (except), and 'vette (Corvette)...though I think "Vette" has pretty much taken over.
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