Casey

Did you get an MSDS with it, Gregg? I would be curious to see what the active ingredients are. From the eBay listing: "BLUE MAGIC PAINT STRIPPER: Being a model car builder and collecter for over 50 years.. Fast, Safe, And simple paint removal was always a concern. Then about 20 years ago I discovered this incredible stuff. It did everything I've always wanted a paint remover to do. It didn't take long and all my friends started using it as well. I would never dream of using anything else, and believe me I've tried them all! This was a commercial, and never was availaable in any retail outlets. I contacted the manufacterer and was finally able to get this in one quart bottles. I'm now offering this amazing stuff to everyone in the hobby @ $21.95 per Quart plus shipping. This is how this product works. You find a suitable size tupperware container, big enough to submerce the entire model and all parts needing to be stripped. I ONLY USE THIS STUFF FULL STRENGTH, AND ALWAYS TEST IT ON A SMALL PART FIRST. some of the models I buy, have been painted in a hot lacquer with no primer, in which case the paint is usually burned into the plastic and simply will not totally strip. This stuff is safe on clear plastic and will also remove old decals and strip plated parts in minutes. This product is extremely potented when used in full strenghth. The less time you let it soak, the better.(BESURE TO ALWAY KEEP THE LID SEALED WHILE SOAKING,AS THE FUMES ALONE CAN SPEED UP THE PROCESS). I have no problem stripping diecast models; however be very sure to test it on resin models, because they are not alway the same. Once the model's are ready to be taken out of the container, hold it under a faucet, (warm water is best), and just lightly brush all the paint off with a toothbrush. It will clean,shine, and be ready to Paint. Final note; After finished, simply leave the product right in the container, making sure the lid is tightly sealed. This is a non toxic biodegradable product but I always suggest wearing rubber gloves, and working in a well ventilated area. AND PLEASE KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND PETS... MANUFACTRED IN THE U.S.A.,"

No, that wouldn't be a good decision at all. Dukes of Hazzard labelled anything is a near-guranteed sale, and a 1/16 Daytona in any form wouldn't come close in sales numbers. There's a reason the 1/25 MPC DOH kit has sold more than any other, and it's not because it's a quality kit.

Why they said. The Revell 1/25 '69 Daytona is a great kit, while the AMT kit should be avoided altogether. If you don't have a lot of kitbashing enxperience and want a nice straight-out-of-the-box build, pick up the current 1/24 ex-Monogram '70 Superbird kit.

Krylon Dull Aluminum in their "Metallics" line.

No, I'm pretty sure Juha Airio did the master on that particular offering.

They were, and that's what the forthcoming Revell reissue is. See here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53928 The Rescue 911 kit was the last version issued, but the grille is downright horrible. I would love to see Round2 put the $$$ into repairing and backdating the kit to '71 specs. Back to Chuck's request, the 1/20 Mid Ford van was originally(?) issues as the "Ironside Van": ...and also the "The Wizard Ford Custom Van": ...and lastly the "Visible Van"

I'm 99% sure the decals are different.

Let's not forget Round2 is already reissuing the Vantom '75+ Ford van in 2012:

Browse though here, Ian: http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/library.shtml I agree that the Monogram '71 Satellite is a better starting point for a Road Runner than the '71 GTX kit. Some guy did a comparison of the two kits a while ago, too: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28020&hl=satellite&fromsearch=1

I removed the ribbed rocker panel trim from the right side tonight, then decided to see how well the Revell '67 Vette sidepipes would work with the '69 AMX body. After removing some material from the backside and slicing off the bend at the front end of the sidepipe, they were held in place for a test fit, but I think they may be a tad bit too short when compared to the original car. I may be able to get away with extending the top edge a bit, though: I also discovered the top edge of the headlight buckets were molded in a very odd way, so those will probably need to be re-done completely. Not a big deal really, since the headlights are molded in place, so those would've been drilled out and replaced anyway. Ditto for the molded in parking lamps. I think I will tackle creating the hod scoop next, since that can be done without the rear half of the body in place.

That's a really nice kit, Jared. I build it when it first came out in '90 or so, and used some unknown bright yellow paint for the exterior. Painting the edges of the "glass" was the toughest part, but I managed to do it with a gloss black Testors paint pen.

The only way to get a clean, crisp edge is to make a new edge, either by cutting through the existing black paint layer just above the existing edge or by sanding down the exisitng colors, re-taping, and re-spraying the paint with better masking. You'd not only have to have a perfect guide egde, but you'd need to have a perfectly steady hand to lay down a straight, sharp edge doing it by hand with a brush.

Foiled again. I'm assuming the existing convertible, the fastback, and a formal hardtop would all require different interior platforms, or at least different package trays for the two hardtops. I can't find images of the 'vert platform on the forum anymore (Len's review no linger contians images and I don't see the Kit Reviews images on the main page anymore?), but I'm guessing it has a proper convertible rear seat area, which would nees to be changed for a hardtop.

Thanks for the info, Tom. I'm very interested to see what Revell has in store for the Orange Crate's tires. I hope they come up with something nice, or we may see a ton of Orange Crates being built with AMT's new slicks.

I think that would require molding the header and front valance panels as separate pieces, and they'd need to to include all the different noses, the two different style of parking lamps/housings, two (maybe more with bumper guards involved) different styles of bumpers, etc. It would be nice, but it would probably make it a 6'n'1 kit.

Um, ditto. Wow, incredible haul for those prices. I would've paid $5 for the '54 Chevy box alone.

This is the kit you want, but it includes a small block, the standard (non-louvered SS) hood, and the Sport Coupe level grille and tail lights: The hood from the MPC '69 Camaro SS can be made to work: Time Machine resin offered the standard '68 grille when the '67 kit came out, so perhaps they may offer other parts? You may want to check out www.modelhaus.com , too, as thy may have some SS-speciifc parts for the early AMT '68 Camaro kits/promos.

More IMC info here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49120

Which one? Or both?

I tend to agree with Rob. Any all new kit or kits with new parts (i.e., the snowplow in the '77 GMC 4x4) probably shouldn't be expected 'til June at the earliest, but I'm sure they'll be worth the wait.

How 'bout two interior reference pics? I think Scale Motorsports offers plaid pattern decals, don't they?

GO BOY STORE!!! had images of the Aoshima kit in some of their past listings, and the body looked very nice.

Fixed it for ya. It is a bit surprising neither the notchback nor fastback hardtop bodies are yet available in resin.