Casey

I just noticed this 1/32 scale ex-Renwal Teracruzer among Revell's March releases. Seems to me this would work well for building a trans-Arctic vehicle:

This question comes up often in the Resin section, but nobody casts that grille.

Can you post a pic of the 1:1 car(s)? Which year Impalas?

You had me at "Racing Scenes". The Donovan engine kit is very nice.

I've seen an Ertl die-cast model of Richard Petty's car, but not sure if anthing has been made in resin as far as NASCAR bodies are concerned.

Yeah, the three mufflers thing seems odd to me, too. I recall a single transverse muffler for most applications, but don't recall all the possibilities. The rear anti-sway bar mounts are odd looking, crazy long, and are nothing like any 1:1 rear sway bar I've ever seen.

I've only seen two done in scale I would call accurate, or at least true to the 1:1 American 200-S wheels. The 1/16 AMT '64.5 Mustang kit has the nicest set, by far, and there's a set of very deep 14" wheels by either AMT or MPC which are nice, too. All of the other wheels in scale have an incorrect spoke shape, which is very distinct on the 1:1 wheels. The Monogram '57 Chevy spokes are too flat on the spoke edges, the 14" AMT spokes are too short and chubby, and even the 1/8 scale Monogram spokes aren't quite right. I will PM you, Mike, as I have some deeper (10" or so) versions available, like so, and can make some narrower ones, too:

Having owned both an '83 and '85 GT-S, you'd need to do something wicked with the lower control arms to get camber that extreme. Me thinks Dave Z and Snidely are gonna like this one a lot. Is this the Tamiya Marshall's Car kit?

Looks nice, and is a good example of how '70s and '80s Monogram kits can look when nicely finished.

You could always pick up the reissued 1/25 AMT/Model King '69 GTO Judge Funny Car kit and use the stock body as a starting point for a 1/25 scale '69 and '68 GTO.

Here's the Revell 1/25 '69 Nova SS exhaust in place on the Revell 1/25 '69 Camaro chassis: There are six mounting studs on the topside of the exhaust system which won't allow it to fully tuck up to the Camaro's chassis as it should, but the fit is near perfect. Definitely better than the Revell '68 Firebird's exhaust system, shown below: Another shot of the Nova exhaust/Camaro chassis combo, showing the transverse muffler positioned in front of the fuel tank: A few more detail pics from the '69 Nova kit, starting with the Centerline Convo Pro wheels, in a very narrow width: The rear wheels: Pretty decent 14" Rally wheels: The optional traction bars: Nice dual snorkel chrome air cleaner: Fiberglass-look cowl induction hood, viewed from the underside:

I just picked up this kit, and I agree that the rear slicks are a huge disappointment. I think you need to go the Street Freak route with this car if you want to use anything wider than a 7" tire. Bust out the extended leaf spring shackles, the Garbiel Hi-Jacker air shocks, and toss a set of N50s on 14"x10" mags of your choice. I do recall the bigger SCS tires Dave mentioned just barely fit the rear of Revell's '69 Camaro without modification, so I bet that's about as big of a tire as you can run on the Nova, too. Pics of the Nova exhaust system in place on the '69 Camaro chassis later...

I see. Are those the same tires used with Revell's late model Mustang kits?

Maybe you can tell by looking at the instruction sheet? http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/instruction_sheets/revell-5/revell-miss-deal-fu/

eBay for sure, Dariin. And those 1/12 scale '67 Impalas by Radio Shack you have go for good money on Bay, too.

Are the included low profile tires the "good" tires, as also found in the Revell '66 Chevelle wagon and El Camino kits, or are they the "bad", super narrow tires found in the Goodguys issue of the 1/25 Revell '55 Chevy Bel Air hardtop kit? I looked both the Revell '62 Imapla SS and the '63 Impala SS boxes over, and the '63 appears to have the "bad" narrow tires, but it's hard to judge by the box art.

This is another reason I have switched over to Tamiya acrylics. I have never one stuck closed, no matter how long it was closed. The cap is easy to open, it seals well, and it's plastic, so it won't bend. I use a small slip joint pliers to remove the stuck on Testors metal caps.

I think the O.P. is asking about Fred's Resin Workshop: http://fredsresinworkshop.com/

To answer your question, Brandon, I think orange paint and the K-H recall wheels would look better.

Right here: http://www.idcow.com/bs2003.html

I want to say Chris Etzel's Speed Classics (might have gotten that name all wrong) did a multi-media kit of this car, Harry, but it was in 1/25 scale IIRC. I swear there was as article about it in the SAE issue about Indy Cars...Art will know.

It may be due to the fact that on most of the 1:1 Mopar cars, those darn torsion bars were always getting in the way. The '67 Coronet/GTX/Charger kits include some 4-into-1 headers for use with the Hemi engine, but you're right, I don't think any of the 440 equipped newer 1/25 Revell Mopar kits include headers, just exhaust manifolds.

True, but it sometime depends on the style of the build. Say you're building a Revell '49 Mercury with spotlights, fender skirts, a tuck and roll interior, and frenched head and tail lights, which would look to many like a traditional '50s kustom. Now, let's say you added some 17" billet wheels and 45-series tires to the model...it doesn't fit with the theme as a whole. Maybe that's what the builder wants, likes, and intends, but when viewed by another member, it doesn't all work well together. Learning to think about parts and how they are used together, rather than just using what you find in a parts box and putting it all together is a skill. Maybe people don't care, and certainly tastes and opinions will vary wildly, but I think most people can see the difference between a well thought out model which works together as a whole and a model which just has different parts added until it's finished. Take a look at Sean Svendsen's builds for an example of well thought out models which are far more than the sum of their parts: http://homepage.mac.com/ssven5/Sites/Svensworldofwheels/images/modelcarindex.html

Someone mentioned a solution to this problem before, and I believe what they did was paint around the outside of the wheel where it contacts the tire. I think any type of paint which also works as a sealer would stop the reaction, so even a clear acrylic paint might be worth trying. The only problem is you won't know if it works until a few months or years later.

It can be hard to separate Harry's personal opinions from his actions as a Moderator if this forum, but I think this is what leads to some confusion and why some are hesitant to post honest critiques: "Rules for On The Workbench For those viewing others who are presenting their works in progress in this section of the forum, please keep your criticisms, sarcasms, and other comments to yourself, unless the builder/poster has specifically asked for such replies." So, unless someone specifically ASKS FOR critques or comments, they are not allowed, even if they are meant as constructive cirticism. I understand why snide remarks and sarcasm aren't welcome, but from what I'm reading, comments aren't even allowed. I'm guessing the rules were tightened up to deal with members who like to test the limits, but read word-for-word, it's pretty much "look but don't comment unless asked to".