Casey

There were both '76 and '77 MPC Pacer kits, NIB, which sold for $32 and $25, so there are still easy to find. If $30 is about what you'd pay for a new Revell Special Edition kit, and $20 gets you a re-issued AMT kit, why even hope for and wait on a reissue? The other issue with re-issuing the Pacer is I think it was last issued as a custom, just like the Gremlin, so Round2 would need to backdate it and restore the body to '78 specs. I can see the Vega having the most appeal with John Q Public, and I hope Round2 doesn't stay consistent and re-issue the Mustang II in retro box art instead.

Edited out incorrect info. See below.

IIRC, the 1/16 DOH '69 Charger is an entirely different kit/tooling than the 1/16 '73/4 Street Charger kit/tooling, even though the chassis under both is very similar. I have not seen any other automotive kits from Round2 listed under the "1 Run of Fun" program, so maybe it's just getting started. This Barnabas kit would sure be a perfect candidate...

I haven't built more than a handful of Tamiya kits, but they were a great value considering how nicely molded they are and how well they fit together. You can buy four AMT '66 Mustangs (well, maybe six or seven) for the price of a $60 Tamiya kit, but we all know which one has the best chance of being completed, well built, and will end up looking the most like the real car.

Unless there are parts missing from Chucks photos, I see nothing other than the cab area of the body shell which remains stock. No stock headlights and headlight bar, grille, hood sides, hood side inserts (possibly the most recognizable part of a '33 Chevy), fenders-- all missing. Contrast it to Steve Milberry's built up pictured in an older thread:

I'm just interested in seeing how you get the paint into all those newly formed nooks and crannies. What type of paint are you using and how do you apply it?

The Aurora 1/16 Racing Scenes engines are pretty amazing kits, with working parts throughout and a ton of well-done detail. Some parts could've been better, but when completed they can be stunning.

The person who designed those decals isn't to shabby a builder, either. Looks like a great sheet withe some very unique/different markings.

He must've tried building that one himself, and had pity on you for wanting to try.

Hopefully this will lead to the evening out of prices for Revell vs. Revell AG kits, depending upon where you live.

NIne times out of ten when I'm searching for an image of a kit box, guess which 'site turns up? Love that place.

I agree. Fun too read and look at, but the info contained shouldn't always be taken as absolute. That's what TSBs are for.

Don't buy the Tool Shop brand anything from Menards- it's of very poor quality and not worth buying IMHO. I picked up a nice Craftsman mini file set from Sears a decade ago, and it was served me well. IIRC it was $12-$15 or so. I wouldn't buy a Dremel and bits just yet, unless you plan to do some serious customizing. It's a $75-$100 investment and I don't think it's necessary for a basic starter set. Ditto for the pin vise and miniature bits to go with it. Nice to have if you plan to do some super detailing and/or drill out kit supplied distributors for spark plug wires, but it's another $20 I don't think you need to spend just yet. A sprue cutter isn't really necessary either, as an X-acto knife can do the same job and more. I'd suggest you buy a very fine tooth saw blade first, then buy a coarser blade later. I find I use the 45-50 tpi blade far more often than anything coarser, as it leaves a cleaner cut and is easier to control. I suggest you buy the sanding sticks/fingernail files from Walgreens- much cheaper and they work better than Flex-I-File's sanding sticks. Buy a quality cutting mat, the largest you can afford. As Harry suggested, good lighting very important. Ottlites are great, but pricey, but with the current Michael's 50% off coupon, they are much more reasonable.

It follows Round2's pattern of re-issuing kits which RC2 reissued in the last decade, so maybe it has something to do with the fact that the tooling is already in China, and they know it can be used without a ton of additional financial investment. I think most people would've preferred this kit to have been released under the "1 Run of Fun", then returned to the original '33 Chevy Panel, with the Barnabas version, um, buried for good.

Are those crucifix-spoked wheel halves?

http://www.krick-modell.de/shop_fachhandel/texte/92217.pdf

$6.99 for an 8 oz. can of "Perfect Match" at Advance Auto here in WI.

The decal's matte finish is really obvious here, as mentioned in the review of this kit in the Reviews section. I don't think they can be used without clear coating them before or after application. Is the NorCal spolier is sagging because the body is spreading apart?

Yes, that is much better looking. It was looking a bit too much like the Pink Beast custom form the '50's with that extremely long tail. I love the molded in visor too, as it visually lengthens the car even more. I've always liked it when the trailing edge of the rear quarter panels matches the leading edge of the front fenders, and the '56 Chevy definitely has that "leaning forward" look at the front end.

Try 91% Isopropyl alcohol, Earle.

And the good kits to buy:

This is the AMT kit to avoid:

Many fans were designed with unevenly spaced blades, such as this early '70s Mopar fan: Not sure if that's correct for your application or not, but since most kits tend to get the top of the line engines and options, they usually get heavy duty fans, too.

It may be cheaper for them to include multiple instructions in various languages instead of printing up a unique box with each language. I'm sure they did it for a good reason, just as they realize not everyone in the USA speaks English, and not everyone in France speaks French, etc.

Tonight I removed the hood bulges and filled in the two existing holes using some pink googly eye pupils: I filled any low spots with superglue and baking powder, so it will look uniform once primed: Since this'll be a curbside build, I will probably glue the hood to the body and make it all one nose piece, as the AMX GT appears to have a molded in/closed cowl panel, too.