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Casey

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Everything posted by Casey

  1. Looking at older Revell kits such as the Lincoln Futura and '56 Cadillac Fleetwood, we see they both contained two figures: It seems by the time the '58 SMP/AMT kits hit the shelves, figures had fallen out of favor and we were left with only the vehicles, and nobody to ride in them. Why did new kits no longer include figures? Is it because model kits were moving away from 1:48/O-scale and their association with model railroading? Maybe it was an extra cost/materials vs. value issue for AMT, Revell, etc.?
  2. Talk to the manager at the store and ask if they'll be getting the kits you want.
  3. The rear spoiler won't fit correctly? Where will it not line up?
  4. Very nice work so far. What are you planning for the head and tail light areas?
  5. Try using dark grey or black primer under such a dark green topcoat, Lane. You'll get better coverage that way. I'd also suggest you get the enigne in place and temporarily mounted so you can "connect" the exhaust system now.
  6. Wasn't the Coyote kit created from the remnants of another kit in MPC's inventory? I seem to recall reading some not so flattering reviews and comments regarding this kit, but the details escape me. Here's a build thread on another forum which may be of some help. The buidler appears to have encountered a few fit issues of his/her own: http://z12.invisionf...topic=7637&st=0
  7. This is good reading, Earle: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35 FWIW, all polishing kit does is make progressively finer (read smaller) scratches in the paint, until you get to the point where the human eye can no longer see the scratches. The smoother you can get the basecoats, the better, but you still need to leave something for the final coat(s) to grab onto. I would not go finer than 3,000 grit if you still need to apply color or clear coats, and IMHO no polish of any sort should be added until you are finished painting for good. The polishing cloths will make the paint appear dull, but the trick is to not let your eye be fooled by the sheen. Instead, train your eyes to see how even and flat the painted surface is becoming. If you use the polishing cloths correctly, by the time you reach the 8,000 grit (or thereabouts), you will start to see an increase in gloss. Now, this is all assuming you started with the correct grit. If you start with too fine a grit, you will never properly level the surface and you will need to go back and start with a coarser grit cloth. I won't lie- it takes practice to use polishing cloths, but the results speak for themselves. Even after you've used them and become proficient at polishing, you will probably still sand through in a few areas, or leave a few areas not as well polished as you'd have liked. The perfectly polished paint job is rarely, if ever seen, but that doesn't keep us from trying.
  8. IIRC, a forum member got quite far on this conversion, but I think it had molded in headlights. I'm sure a search would turn up that particular post.
  9. So Revell hasn't topped itself in the musclecar category since 1990? I wouldn't disagree, but just an observation on my part.
  10. Looks like Liam got a new display case.
  11. Small parts are easier to cast, but if you're making a racer's wedge (like the AMT kit part?), that's not something most beginners are going to be able to pull off successfully from the start. Start small with one-part molds, DO NOT use the Alumilite starter kit (the resin cures too quickly and the specific mold rubber included isn't the best choice IMHO), and be willing to learn from your failures.
  12. I never realized how close to the 1/32 scale kit's ambulance top is to the 1:1 van's. I wonder if Tom Daniel was influenced by the movie when he designed the model or vice-versa...
  13. '69 Charger (post-Pro Modeler chopped top fiasco) and its variants? '69 Dart GTS? I think the '69 Charger R/T, '69 Charger Daytona, and '68 Charger R/T are darn nice kits and will hold their own for another 15 years.
  14. http://public.fotki....e-product-list/ I love everything about this build so far, Bryan. Nice work. IMHO, big car like this need big wheels and tires to balance out the proportions.
  15. Don't start, Most! You know the fastback's coming next!! Do you mean a new or modified kit versus a straight re-issue?
  16. There is a certain pleasure derived from having something nobody else does, and that may apply in this case. That doesn't make them crazy, just different.
  17. I'm sure it makes a great story, but since so few people have actually seen the car (and who knows how much of it), we're going on very little info. We can all have our opinions and it sure makes a great story for selling magazines, but maybe all of the attention the car is garnering is turning the owner(s) off to sharing it with others. $.02
  18. Maybe it was these I was thinking of: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Decal-1-20-Wolf-WR-1-Tamiya-Tire-Marking-Set-Bobby-Rahel-Jody-Scheckter-f1-20064-/320805090671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab179356f I suppose you'd need to have the correct radius on hand to compare to existing decals in other scales to see if they'd work.
  19. No, note the scale difference between the two.
  20. Check out the seller's completed sales- you'll see why the seller is all the way to the bank.
  21. I have seen them on eBay, with one large sheet containing multiple scales.
  22. Pick up the just released Revell (ex-Monogram) 1/24 Chevy Van: ...and use the van's front suspension with the soon-to-be-released 1/24 ex-Monogram '77 GMC 4x4 pickup. You'll still need to change the front end to the rectangular headlight style, though.
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