Casey

I suppose that would work, but if you don't extend and widen the roof area you need to tilt the pillars inward so everything mates up after the chop...and that usually ends up looking kind of funky. Here's a quick and crude Photoshop-modified image of a '67 A-series pickup with the top chopped 6" or so. I think you could get away with sliding the rear cab wall/greenhouse area forward after the chop (this is all assuming you leave the roof area the stock length and width), but something's gotta give, and I've stopped short of laying back the A-pillars to meet the stock length roof:

Yowza, nice lookin' Javelin!

I picked up some Tamiya Fine White Primer and three 1/3 oz. bottles of Tamiya acrylic paint- clear red, semi-gloss black, and clear flat. I'm looking forward to seeing how the primer lays down on a 1/32 scale body. I didn't see any signs of a Tamiya paint shortage at the two hobby shops I visited, either.

I agree. The plastic you fill each hole with would need to be the exact same consistency as the plastic surrounding the hole...not likely to happen. Why are you opposed to painting the outside of the body, but willing to paint the inside?

You could do that, but in my opinion, chopped tops always look better if the roof area is both lengthened and widened, with the pillar angles kept close to stock. The center windshield post on an A-series cab provides and additional challenge- remove it altogether, section it, or cut it out and replace it with a new piece? I would section the A-pillars until you have the roof height you want, then make a longitudinal and a perpendicular cut through the roof to lengthen and widen it. You will need to either taper the B-pillars or add some rear roof overhang to compensate for the new C-pillar shape, too.

I would try smallblockdodge on eBay- he/they seem to have most of the plain jane hoods for Mopars.

Just Google (or Bing) "Michaels coupon" if you have a smart phone. You can simply show the cashier the online 40% off coupon (which is good through Feb. 12th IIRC), s/he'll scan it, and you never need to print anything out.

Must be because they are all one of none. Well, some people will argue Chrysler did make '71 Challenger T/As...

Zoltan approves of the Pennyland Arcade.

Try Missing link for the Duster wheel covers.

No, I'm waiting for the Monogram 1/24 kit from Revell, Harold.

Someone mentioned (maybe it was you, Ron) the Deora Slant Six is attached to a 3-speed manual transmission, which may be another reason to find one versus the (very nice) Lindberg /6. You'll need to find a resin-cast base-model hood, too. This was a /6 Barracuda which was parted out long ago:

Yeah, that doesn't say much, but I did notice on Omni's 'site they list most of the re-issued kits (Tony Nancy 2x kit, Ed Roth kits, etc.) as February through April releases, so I think it's reasonable to expect the new kits such as the '57 Ford, '50 Olds, and Rat Roaster to be hit store shelves in June or later.

Omni Models' 'site, lists quite a few release dates (well. months at least) for 2012 Revell releases: http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0094p?&N=P&P=1&F=RMXS2095&L=RMXS4249&C=SCBRMX

And even more rare with the display:

There is no good 4-cylinder Chevrolet/GM engine in 1/25 scale, unfortunately. I've heard the 4-cylinder in the MPC Pontiac Fiero might work, too (not sure if that's Iron Duke based or not).

Perhaps the O.P., a former member from five years ago is long gone, has found what s/he needed by now, or is posting under a very similar "new" screen name?

It seems odd the box art models would both have black painted side view mirrors. Good to see Revell investing in another "new" car tool. Hopefully the next one will be 1/12 scale, to go along with the Shelby Mustang or the '69 Camaro Z/28.

Which is exactly how Revell designed their 1/25 custom van kits- with a lift off roof to allow the interior to be easily viewed. It is difficult to see much engine detail through the hood opening, so a removable engine cover is a must if you want to show off the engine on a van model.

He's not talking about how you can modify them from stock to make them better- you can do that with any vehicle. The Vega was one of GM's worst vehicles ever produced and turned many people off from buying another GM vehicle. I suspect even many GM loyalists would honestly admit the Vega seriously damaged GM's reputation with the car buying public. Crises, as in more than one. Yes, the compact Vega/Astre and Pinto/Bobcat were designed to compete with smaller, more efficient vehicles, most of which were coming from Japan, but there were many other factors involved with the demise of inefficient, large American cars besides the cost of oil. The Pinto's lack of rear fuel tank crash protection (and Ford's decision to pay out possible lawsuits vs. fixing the problem) is what gave the Pinto a poor reputation, and also hurt Ford's rep with the public. And we haven't even mentioned the Aspen/Volare yet...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the top is painted, not a replica of a vinyl top. It was an option and the molding was used as the break point for the two paint colors. Great color combo!

If every model kit which was ever issued was built, all we would have to build are new kits and built-ups to re-do. No thank you. I don't really think it matters what you do with a kit once it's yours. There's enough room in this hobby for collectors, builders, hoarders, and flippers that we can all do what we like, and still have respect for what someone else chooses to do with the same kit.

Can we see some more pics of this one, please?

It looks like the new blades are called "Z series" blades: http://www.xacto.com/Catalog/Knives/Blades

I noticed Michael's and Hobby Lobby stopped carrying X-acto brand 100 blade packs, and now only has the 15 blade packs. I'm not sure if X-acto stopped making them in such large packs or if it's a distribution issue on the retail end, but the 100 packs were a great bargain for $15.00 or so. FWIW, I tired the Revell packaged X-acto-like blades at Michael's and found them to be thinner and more flexible than the X-acto brand blades, so I won't buy the Revell brand again. I'll have to pick up some of these new X-acto blades, though, so thanks for the heads up.