Casey

No, they are worse. Do not buy.

From Bob Black's 'site: I think 1969 was when the Badman was first issued.

Yep, it's pretty much the Tom Daniel 'Badman' '55 gasser, as Dave mentioned, with different wheels and tires (the best part of the kit IMHO). As much as I like and publicly defend Monogram kits, this kit isn't great, as I found out when I picked up a reissued Badman. Parts fit is vague all over (round axle tube to flat leaf springs for example), the engine isn't great, and the front solid axle's mounting points are downright fragile.

It'll be interesting to see how this progresses. I like the wedge sectioning you've done, but I fear the stock greenhouse is going to look too tall now, especially with the added bulge of the Jaguar roof. Then again as long as it doesn't look like Chezoom, it should look great. Nice technique on the plastic welding, too.

A perfect post for the Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials section. Box stock builder's gonna hate!

I like and use Ambroid Pro Weld, but there are others just like it.

There's so much to love about those two kits, Christian, from the box art, the fonts used, and that crazy purple plastic...not to mention the waaaaaaaay extended fork on the semi-rickshaw, semi-chopper bike. I'm guessing you'll pick up the soon-to-be reissued Hot Curl and his girlfriend kits from MPC?

This is why I don't like to buy built models, and why I'd rather pay for an unstarted kit.

Damian, try uploading the image using the Attachment feature...and maybe put it in On The Workbench, too.

Steve, I think I have a pair of seats with molded in safety harness detail from a 1/24 dies cast car I took apart, so I will see if I can post some pics for you.

These wheels are fairly accurate replicas of American Racing's Salt Flats wheels. They are pretty much only usable withe the kit supplied tires, which are very narrow as Rob mentioned above. They can be modified, though.

Didn't All American Models do this conversion in resin? I still see them on eBay occasionally, so that is another option.

And some of Revell's tires (Goodyear Radial GTs for example) have been pretty much rendered useless dues to the shaving off of the sidewall's to remove the lettering. I don't mind smooth sidewalls, but if there's a ridge where the sidewall and tread meets, it kills any possible scale realism.

No. I tried but never get a confirmation when I've tried to register.

The Swap/Trade section here on the forum is another great place to find engines.

Some clearer images would help, but from what I can see, the damage isn't too horrible. Pick up a sheet of Evergreen or Plastruct styrene in the same thickness as the rocker panel on the body, and get busy cutting and test fitting. I would suggest you use a solvent welder type 'glue' to join the spoiler pieces, and that will melt both sides and provide a seamless, permanent bond....provided the break is clean. Were the 'glass' pieces intact? That seems to be the #1 issue with the 1/8 scale Monogram kits- broken windshields and rear windows.

Not my cup of tea, but it's different.

Here's the follwow up, after applying two light coats of Tamiya Grey primer. Chassis painted: White glue plug removed: Two different pictures of holes with the plugs removed, showing the bare creme colored plastic inside each hole:

Lane, what exactly are you trying to do? Is the clear plastic piece you have foggy/cloudy/scratched?

Allow me to go get my megaphone and soapbox. Out of curiosity Christian, are the 1/16 (and other scale) AMT kits produced during the Matchbox-era easier to find in the UK and maybe Europe, at least compared to non-Matchbox era AMT kits? It seems I've seen a few of the 1/16 Nomads and '55 Bel Airs in Matchbox packaging on eBay from UK sellers.

Remember how popular NASCAR racing and NASCAR models were a decade ago? You could buy a kit or decals for just about every car from every race and they were everywhere. Now, look at the NASCAR section here. Not much traffic. I'm not knocking the steampunk/apoc/futuristic genre, but like rat rods, pro street, rusty bare metal hoods, and neon accessories, things tend to lose populartiy in time, but if a forum is fluid and changes to match te usage of its members, I see no problem with adding new categories and deleting or consolidating others.

I think Dave may have forgotten to add this after that line: Yes, the apocalytic stuff is the flavor fo the month now, so I don't see any harm in adding a specifc section for it. The CB thread has 80 pages alone, so like it or not, the traffic volume is there. That said, I think the whole forum could use a re-organization, or at least some consolidation and addition of a few new sub-categories, as Dave hinted at...but I'll leave that topic to Harry, as I'm sure he remembers how that topic went the last time. Ultimately, it's Gregg's decision to organize the forum as he wishes, and we all have to respect that, whether or not we agree with it. Everyone always has the option of starting their own forum if they think they can do better or want to do things differently.

"This is a 1/12 scale premium assembly kit model of the Enzo Ferrari. In order to obtain an intricate level of detail, this kit is constructed from high quality materials including PS resin cowling, die-cast suspension arms and other metal parts, photo-etched meshes, and synthetic rubber tires. This model also features a one-piece monocoque frame, as well as a highly-detailed V12 engine and drivetrain. Suspension arms combine with dampers and stabilizers for an actual working suspension. Metal hinged gull-wing doors open smoothly thanks to built-in springs and dampers. Front and rear cowling can be opened allowing display of the model's internal features. This is the ultimate Ferrari aficionado car model kit." That sounds like something above and beyond a $60 Revell kit, no disrespect to the 1/12 Shelby Mustang kit. I agree that $610.00 is pricey, but it always seems that you get plenty of value when you buy a Tamiya kit, sepecially in a larger scale.

Alumilite, like Smooth-On and others, makes many different types of resin and mold rubber, so you can look through their selection and choose the product which best suits your needs. Quick Set is very firm, so I only use it on parts which have no undercuts and require little flexing of the mold to release the cast parts after they have cured...which means I realy use it. High Strength 3 is my mold rubbber of choice for most parts.

Project AMX GT just took one step forward: