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Everything posted by Casey
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Revell '34 Ford Street Rod Snap Tite/Pro Finish Kits
Casey replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Thanks for the pics and information. -
Question about this 72 Chevy
Casey replied to Rick Schmidt's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I would think the longbed version would work as far as wheelbase is concerned, but I think he'll need two kits anyway, especially for the interior/cab floor and seats. -
71 Road Runner resin conversion kit?
Casey replied to rustybill1960's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
This post might help answer some of your questions: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28020 You'll need to contact Keith Marks for the correct 1/24th scale decals featuring the cartoon Roadrunner. It's easier to start with the Satellite grille than the GTX grille (and ditto for the Satellite body) when making a Road Runner, but if you have both kits on hand, you will have a lot of options. -
I've always liked this kit, and yours is looking great so far. Are those Pegasus wheels?
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Revell '34 Ford Street Rod Snap Tite/Pro Finish Kits
Casey replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Maybe on the current issue they are blank, but I don't think they wiped the tire sidewalls clean until '04 or so? Even so, the tread remains, and all the box art models for this kit appear to be riding on Eagle STs (and the tread pattern looks correct for Eagle GTs, too). -
Revell '34 Ford Street Rod Snap Tite/Pro Finish Kits
Casey replied to Casey's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Thank you. The wheels look very nice. Are the tires Goodyear Eagle STs, and do they have a tire size on the sidewall? I looked over a few versions of this kit at a local hobby shop, and they all appear to have Goodyear Eagle ST tires on them. I've never seen Eagle ST tires in any Revell 1/25th scale kit, but they were included in the 1/16th Revell '34 Ford kits, so maybe this kit is a scaled down version of the 1/16 '34 Ford Coupe kit. -
Scratch building ideas for a Mega Cycle Project
Casey replied to Darren B's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I suggest you use both styrene tubing and stryene sheet to build the body. You can laminate the body with multiple layers of sheet styrene, then round the corners and edges as needed. It's going to be a lot of sanding, fitting, and cutting regardless of which construction method you use, but bonding styrene to styrene is easy with some plastic welder. I would source the engine (V6 IIRC) and Triumph motorcylce first, then use them for properly scaling out the body. -
Any cheaper ways to make molds?
Casey replied to highway's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I've used both the Alumilite High Strength 3 and Smooth-On's Mold Max 20, which are very similar in hardness when cured and a of very good quality. HS3 can be found at Hobby Lobby, but it looks like your nearest HL is 70 miles away. The silicone rubber kits I purchaed (trial size) were around $30.00 each, but with the HL 40% off coupon, that drops the cost down to $18.00. If you have any local art supply stores, you can try having them order it for you, but it will still be more cost effective to order it online. You may want to dig deep and buy the gallon size for $90.00 or so. -
I think the seller is in Quebec? Joe Ouellette, possibly? I recall the name from older SAE issues, but not sure if it's spelled correctly or even the same.
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The Road Runner package was based on the Plymouth Volare coupe from '76-'80, so it is a real Road Runner, just heavier on decals and lighter on performance than the earlier versions. The paint scheme you selected in very reminiscent of the '78 Dodge/Plymouth Super Coupe paint schemes, or at least the paint break is very close:
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That would've been a great looking stock tailpanel/light setup. I'm not loving to small rear window, but the front and rearend treatments are tastefully done. I have the stock '69 Camaro SS which I need to get going on someday...
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I built this kit when it first came out and I remember the parts had an overall "thick" feeling to them, and I think that shows up in a few places once the entire kit is assembled. Compared to an AMT or Revell kit, the body was thicker, as were a few other parts like the inner fenders and radiator support. I don't know if this was an accident or if it was intentional on Lindberg's part, but the extra thickness left me a bit disappointed.
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Monogram's Big Rigs for '88
Casey replied to Casey's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Absolutley, feel free to use it however you wish. Here's the direct link: http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad9/tramhl/Plastic%20Models/Reference/Monogram/BigRigs1.jpg -
Anyone remember the P M C company
Casey replied to Eshaver's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Art, I hope you don't mind me posting this. I stumbled upon it while surfing for Buick Reatta promo info: http://forums.aaca.org/f169/history-promo-car-models-211255.html Art, if you ever decide to put all of your knowledge down and write a book, I will gladly help in any way I can. This is the kind of information and experience that can't be gleaned from a Wiki on the web. -
I built this kit in the '80s when it was molded in turquiose plastic and like most Monogram kits of that era, was a straightforward build. Does this engine have a twin-turbo setup? I don't recall what the induction system consists of...
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I'm curious which tires are included in both of these kits. I'd also like to see a pic of the Halibrand wheels in the black-painted Pro Finish version if anybody has this kit open. I can't really tell too much from the box art, as the kit packaging only shows off the body. The rear tires in both kits appear to be the old Monogram Goodyear GT Radial tires with smoothed sidewalls from what I can see on the box art. A pic of the purple SnapTite version's wheels would be a nice bonus.
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From the '88 Monogram catalog:
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the stuff...they...call...RESIN!
Casey replied to 69_charger's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
1) The mold type depends upon the part you wish to copy. A one-part mold is the easiest, and is the best choice when the part has a flat side which will either not be visible when used or is hidden Examples include the back face of a wheel, the bottom of a valve cover, or any part which is cast in two halves (say a transmission half). If the part can be molded solid (unlike an injection molded kit part's transmission half, which is not molded solid) and has a flat side, a one-part mold is the easiest way to go. When you get into more complex shapes where there is no flat side and you must use a two-part mold, things get a bit trickier. Your mold will depend upon the shape of the part and the part's features. For example, if you want to make a copy of a wheel which has spoke detail on both sides of the wheel, you need to use a two-part mold. To make a two-part mold, you first select a container of build a box which is slightly larger than the part, fill the bottom with non-hardening clay, embed the part to be cpoied in the clay (or add more clay to the existing clay bed and embed the part in the additional clay), then pour mold rubber over the part and clay. When the mold rubber has fully cured, you can remove it, and prep the mold half and part for pouring of the second half of the mold. Once the second half is cured, separate both halves, remove the part, and you have a two-part mold. 2) Which type of mold rubber you use depends upon the part(s), how long you want the molds to last, which type of resin you plan to use, etc. The deeper the undercuts on your mold, the more elasticity the mold rubber must have to avoid tearing when you de-mold the part. There is a lot to learn and the learning curve is steep, but if you enjoy learning, doing things right, and aren't discouraged by an initial parts cating success rate of 10%, you'll do well. 3) Again, it depends upon you skill level, your equipment, what you plan to do with the parts once they're finished, and so on. Try www.alumilite.com and www.smooth-on.com for starters. I've used both companies mold rubber and resin, and each has slightly different properties. You really do need to try them out yourself and see what works best for you. It's expensive to learn that way, but once you find the combination which works best for you, you can start re-couping some of your investment. 4) Resin cure times vary with the type of resin you choose. Some cure very quickly (5 minutes), and others take much longer (24 hours). Again, trial and error is best. -
What to do with chrome headlights?
Casey replied to envious8420's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Even better is to use the headlamp lenses found in the Revell '67 Coronet R/T kit- they drop right into the GTX's headlights buckets, have no 'posts', and do have the cast in lens texture. Replacing the chromed H/Ls is much easier when they're round I'll freely admit. -
Newbie looking for parts
Casey replied to bottlefed1991's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Which wheels are you looking for? -
Greg Fox sells many if not all of teh 1/16th bodies on eBay. His user ID is "greg-anne" or something similar. If you do a search for "1/16" his tuff will turn up in the search. I used to build only teh Revell 1/16th F/C stuff, now not so much. I do cast some 1/16th wheels for use with the Revell F/Cs, but now only have my Duracharome Bug project left....I need to get back to that project again.
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What to do with chrome headlights?
Casey replied to envious8420's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I think it's best to remove the chrome plated, molded-in headlamps, then replace them with clear lenses. The round molded in headlamps have no visual depth since they are convex rather than concave. I remember Pat Covert mentioning MV lenses in his SAE column years ago. Has anybody tried them? -
Monogram's 29 Model A roadster Pickup
Casey replied to Pete L.'s topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It's not in the current Revell lineup. -
Does anyone offer a conversion kit or the individual parts needed to convert the Revell '99 Mustang Cobra kit into an '03-'04 Mach 1? I'm not that up on the newer Mach 1s, but the shaker scoop looks awfully close to the '69 or '70 version. I think I can use the Revell Boss Mustang snap tite kit's front fascia (thinned a bit) for the front lip spoiler, so that leaves the decals, Magnum 500-like 17" wheels, hood, and rear spoiler as the main parts to find or scratchbuild. I can modify the seats without much trouble. Is the Revell '99 Cobra the only '99-'04 New Edge Mustang kit in 1/25th scale?
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AMT 25 T Double kit review with pics
Casey replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
No, there is only one version of this kit, unlike the Double Dragster kit. The Double T kit was supposed to include a tin display base, but I looked at the Round2 page and the tin display base is no longer mentioned.