Casey

Yep, and it's horrible. The entire kit consists of about twenty pieces and appears to be very Palmer-like (it may in fact be an old Palmer kit), which means stay away! AMC offered the Levi's denim interior in some Jeep CJs, too, and IIRC, there's a Gremiln with the Levi's denim interior in the movie Car Wash.

As usual, fantastic work, Art. I do have one suggestion, though. Can you take or post larger pictures so we can see the detial? I don't know what Fotki's max picture size is, but it would be great to be able to see the hub detail up close.

While cruising eBay I came upon the first model I ever built, this Revell Snap-Tite Corvette Stingray: I can still vividly remember applying the waterslide decals at the kitchen table and what they smelled like. I may have to pick one of these up again for old times sake.

Wagons rock.

It's a shame Revell created some nice looking, but way-too-narrow custom wheels and pairing them with these way-too-narrow tires. Who puts 19"x5" and 20"x5" wheels on their 1:1 ride? I am a bit bummed to see the Bel Air trim detail molded into the body, too, but this kit should be a consistent good seller for many years and a staple in the Revell lineup.

It's looks really good from what I can see, but are you sure you don't have the number 3 and 7 spark plug wires reversed? Are you using the factory rainbow strobe stripes on the car?

The '70 Dodge B-bodies always look good in orange, and this one proves it. Looks great. I wish AMT would've included the bee emblem on the leading edge of the hood as a decal. That cast-in bee is impossible to detail paint after the body's been painted.

Just Google "tickle me pink funny car" and click on the "Images" tab.

One more tip- do not fold the cloths over 180* on themselves, as the abrasive tends to chunk off when you do that...DAMHIK.

Thanks. Mods- can you pin the above link at the top of this section with a note mentioning the MCCD, please?

What happened to the a-pillars?

I use an old toothbrush and Dawn dish soap to clean mine after each use. As suggested, wet sanding will help them live a longer life, as will a drop of two of dish soap when you are wet sanding/polishing the paint.

Detonator Yellow is the most recent limited edition Challenger color to hit the dealerships, with Plum Crazy going into production soon.

Yes, you are.

Sweptline = smooth bed sides, like so: Utiline = separate fenders and narrower bed, like so: I believe The Modelhaus' bed is a 6-1/2 foot bed, which makes it a shortbox. A longbox would be eight feet long.

The Micro Mesh polishing kit is the great equalizer. When used properly, it makes even a mediocre paint job look fantastic. For the decals, you might try spraying a few mist coats of Testors Dullcote or similar flat clear coating before cutting them out and applying them. Definitely try it on a unused section of the decal sheet first, though.

1) Wait until both colors are done to polish the paint, and in fact, I would suggest you apply a few clear coats over both colors, then polish the clear coat. You can sand in between colors or after application of both colors if you need to reduce the "ridge" at the separation line, and this is where clear coats will help to even out the top surface, even if your two color coats are at slightly different "levels". 2) If you're asking about the end of the spray can into which the plastic spray tip fits, forget about it. Do not try to clean it out. BTDT, got lime green paint in my eye and all over my face- NOT WORTH IT. Seriously, toss it and get a new can. 3) My only tip for BMFing on a car or truck is to look at 1:1 pictures of the car and see where the molding joints are, if any. Many windshield moldings consist of four pieces and rear window moldings six pieces. If you can replicate the joints when you apply the BMF, you kill two birds with one stone. I like to use Q-tips (not just cheap cotton swabs) for burnishing the foil down, and no matter what use a brand new X-acto knife blade, and change it often, as it will dull quickly. You want you cuts to be made completely through he foil the first time, and a sharp blade (and correct pressure) ensures that will happen.

What's the story on the offset cowl hood scoop? Is that a one-off piece? I picked up a Revell '71 GTX from Michael's a few minutes ago for $9.99 - 40% off (I guess it does work on cleanrance priced items), so $6.00 or so. Score!

Yeah, C-cabs are kind of the forgotten hot rods these days, and you're right they are ugly. Loooking forward to C-ing () how this progresses. I pickup up a unopened Monogram Drag Parts Pack thing a few years ago and like an idiot, sold it on eBay, never thinking I'd want to build one of the "Big" kits. Doh!

I must be losing it, because I don't see the Model Car Club Directory in this section anywhere.

Same here. Which kit is the basis for this project? Revell? Testors snap kit?

The Revell Ramcharger is the old Monogram Ramcharger and is 1/24th scale, so Revell fibbed on the scale. I believe it is an '80, too.

Yes, the Dodge Ramcharger and Plymouth Trailduster were based on the D- and W-series pickups which were new for '72. As Mark said, other than the 1/24th scale Monogram Ramcharger, I'm not aware of any others. You can adapt the front suspension from the MPC '71+ Dodge vans for a 2WD RC, but you'll still need a 1/25th scale RC to use as a base.