ColonelKrypton

Lacquer thinner is a generic term; they are all not the same nor created equal. Some contain acetone, various alcohols, MEK, etc... Check their safety data sheet for details. Tamiya lacquer thinner with yellow cap part number 87077 is composed of: Propan-2-ol CAS no. 67-63-0 also known as isopropyl alcohol content > 50% 4-methylpentan-2-one CAS no. 108-10-1 also known as isobutyl methyl ketone content < 30% 2-butoxyethanol CAS no. 111-76-2 content 5 - <10% I have soaked polystyrene parts in Tamiya yellow cap lacquer for several days with no ill effects. I also soak "chrome" plated plastic parts to remove the "chrome". It does not remove the "chrome" in the same way that oven cleaner dissolves the "chrome". Rather, it softens and removes the underlying lacquer on the part which causes the "chrome" to flake off and so be removed. Also, Tamiya has a paint remover product part number 87183 which works very well for removing paint and "chrome" as I described above. In fact, I have found a 50:50 mix of the Tamiya lacquer thinner and Tamiya paint remover works a bit better than either alone. As always, manufacturers can and do change the formulation of their products from time to time due to changing regulations and in order to improve or reduce costs. Always test whenever you are using something that you have not used before. cheers, Graham

Also very cool. cheers, Graham

also very cool. cheers, Graham

Very cool. cheers, Graham

If you have never heard of the "Iron Law of Bureaucracy" before, you will certainly understand after reading this: https://www.jerrypournelle.com/reports/jerryp/iron.html I seem to recall that this is the original version: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerry_Pournelle#:~:text=Another "law" of his is,and sometimes are eliminated entirely. Either wording certainly has a ring of truth. cheers, Graham

It does indeed. cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. I was just reading about this car the other day https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/junior-johnsons-infamous-66-galaxie-the-yellow-banana/ Interesting story and time period in NASCAR racing. cheers, Graham

The smallest commonly found coax cables can be found having outside diameters ( of the PVC insulation on the outside of the cable ) of 0.81mm, 1.13mm, 1.32mm, 1.37mm, 1.48mm and larger. The outside diameter of the braided shield of the 0.81mm coax is around 0.65mm. search on amazon ( or eBay ) for u.fl pigtail or ufl pigtail or ipex pigtail and you will these short ( 6 inches, 8 inches, 12 inches and some longer ) pigtails ( SMA connecter on one end and the U.FL / IPEX on the other). look for the longer ones and the ones using the size of coax you desire ( i.e. 081 or 0.81mm or 1.13 seem to be the most common ) You will also notice some having RG-178 or RG-174 cable - these are much larger than 0.81mm or 1.13mm cables, RG-178 has an outside diameter of 0.072 inches ( 1.8mm ) If you are lucky and happen to find an old wireless router or two ( or three ), you get luckier still and find some of this small diameter coax cable inside the router case. seems a shame to buy these pigtail cables and cut the connecters off to throw away. A couple of long length pigtails and you should have enough to last quite some time. That is what I did. cheers, Graham

OK, I am in for this one too. Hmmmm, wonder what kits have a good rendition of a Ford six cylinder? Flatheads and cammers For(d)Ever cheers, Graham

I learn something new every day. I knew that there were some differences between US and Canadian built but never knew to what extent some of them were. An interesting kitbash build. cheers, Graham ( in eastern Ontario )

Very cool. cheers, Graham

Very nice. Isn't the Gofer Racing dragster chassis kit the same chassis as the slingster? cheers, Graham

I didn't know it was being published again, will have to keep an eye open it. Old issuses of Car Toon, Drag Toon, etc can be found in the internet archive: https://archive.org/details/car-toonmagazine cheers, Graham

I'm in. I hang out on Britmodeler and Group Builds are very popular there - well organized, lots of different subject matter, and plenty of interest. I am surprised that there is not more interest here for these sorts of group builds / community builds ( same thing, just different names. There seem to be a growing number and interest in Group Builds amongst the content providers on Youtube. Not so easy to participate if you are also not one who is posting youtube videos, not impossible, just not so easy. Perhaps there needs to be some thought given on how to promote participation in Group Builds here and the youtube bunch at the same time. One interesting Group Build on Britmodeler are the two yearly 24 hour Blitz builds - build a model in no more than 24 hours over a three day weekend either in one 24 hour sitting, or three eight hour sittings or various length sittings totaling no more than 24 hours. The challenge of Group Builds ( sorry, Community Builds ) is that someone has to step up and actively organize the thing just as @Chuck Most has done for this one. Too many Community Builds is not so good as it tends to be divisive - spreads interest too thinly amongst too many Community Builds. Perhaps we need to start a separate discussion to see how much interest there is in trying to give Community Builds a kick in the butt and see if we can't promote the activity a bit more and buid some interest in the activity. cheers, Graham near Ottawa Canada

very nicely done. cheers, Graham

That is a good idea and should help with aligning all the bits and pieces. I must try something similar cheers, Graham

Very nicely done. Seasons Greetings. Cheers, Graham

A very cool project. I had previously only known about Jim Lytle's Quad Al, his four Allision powered Fiat. Your postings prompted me to do a quick search which led me to an interesting article on the Motor Trend web site complete with some history and pictures of this truly innovative car. cheers, Graham

I quite like the magazine and buy every issue I can. Rather than subscribe I purchase at my local hobby store ( Always support your local Hobby store!) I have looked at the subscription rates and being in a foreign county ( Canada ) the subscription rate plus currency exchange exceeds the cost of the individual issue at the local hobby store. I do miss the days of having the choice of more than one car oriented model magazine. I was aware that you had this build in the current issue and am patiently waiting the chance to visit my local store to pick up my copy. It is indeed a very nice gasser. cheers, Graham

Mixing by weight is far more accurate and produces more consistent results than mixing by volume. I use an inexpensive jewel scale ( check Amazon ) which measures to a resolution of 0.1g. There are those that will measure to 0.01g or finer. Whether these are truly accurate to those levels is not so important as is consistent and repeatable. I can consistently mix 5g ( 2.5 + 2.5 grams ) of casting resin this way. I mix silicone mold rubber this way and even mix fast cure 5/15/30 minute epoxy this way. I used to mix by volume but will never go back once I realized the value of mixing by weight. cheers, Graham

I will second that. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham

@Ace-Garageguy 's advise is very good. If it were me I would use a casting resin for model parts as they don't need the strength of epoxies. I like Smooth On products https://www.smooth-on.com/applications/ lots of good information on their web site Also, Alumilite has some good products as well. https://www.alumilite.com/ They have a line called Amazing that is aimed at crafters and hobbyists. Amazing Mold Maker and Amazing Casting Resin are two and have worked well for my simple needs. If price is an issue and you are only making a few small simple parts the common epoxy and even polyester resin will work in a pinch. cheers, Graham

Very, very nice. cheers, Graham

Very cool. I have never seen this kit before. I am always seeing something new every day. cheers Graham

This is the tool you need - a machinists center finder square https://www.amazon.ca/Grizzly-H5604-Center-Square-2-Inch/dp/B00012YCU6/ It should be a simple matter to make your own from some bits of polystyrene sheet. Ideally you would make your corner 90 degrees but anything would work. The hard part is gluing in place the long straight strip that bisects that angle and you can make it as big or as small as your need dictate. I have made a couple over the years and they have served well. cheers, Graham