The Modeling Hermit

Be sure to scrape plating and paint at the joins. Many models come with no real securing places for attaching bumpers to the bodies. Here I take a small pieces of flat sided sprue. I glue one part to the inner fender, allowing it to hang just far enough that I can glue the bumper to it. I know it's not contest quality, but it sure helps to keep the bumper in place. For some like the 67 GTX, I use triangular shaped pieces and glue them right behind the headlights. I have short pieces of medical tape handy, and use them to hold the pieces securely until they dry. They hold well, but not so tight that one rips everything apart when removing the tape.

We place hours of work into our models, making them our own works of art, and we invest large sums of money into quality tools, models, and displays. How are they protected? Are they insured? Have you checked your insurance policy to see what's covered, and if so, what limitations does your company place on them? Are you insured for replacement value, or just what they think your "toy" is worth? Most of us don't keep receipts, and even if we did, they'd be value outdated within a couple of years. So how do we prove the value, and especially the replacement value of the items of our models? How do we place a monetary value on the work that we've done on them? Do you have pictures of your models, with descriptions on each one explaining the size, what's shown, amount of work and money that's gone into it, and have you done that for individual displays, and items included in those displays? You're dealing with insurance companies that are going to try to get out of paying in every way that they can. The only way that you'll come anywhere close to being reimbursed, is to have proof; substantial proof. Be sure that proof is kept in a safe place, and it's best to have several copies, and keep them in different places. There are some things that you can do on your own to personally protect your models. Have a lockable door on your model room and displays. If possible, install an automatic closer on the room door. Keep display areas clear of clutter. Keep a record of your models, and include in it an updated value for each model. Inventory your tools and supplies, and keep it updated. I'm not attempting to instill a air of doom here, but these are some things that we need to be aware of. I'm hoping that there are some people on the board that are familiar with insurance, and can give some insight on the best ways to work with companies.

Mark, when I lived in Oskaloosa, I got involved with RAGBRAI a couple of times, and I loved it when people would come to Iowa with the perception that it was flat. By the time they made it 2/3 of the way across the state, they had a totally different view of it. I can assure you that the hill just east of Tracy on 92 would make a believer out of anybody. This is a really cool thread. I'm enjoying how many people find serving their country and their families to be the coolest things in their lives.

A cousin of mine and I once turned a skunk loose in a high school cafeteria just shortly before lunchtime. I'm not sure how cool it was, but it sure did liven things up around there for awhile. On the serious side, I married my wife; in May, 30 years.

I'll second what the others said. It was your work that inspired me to start detailing my trucks. I'm nowhere even close to your level, but because of your inspiration, my models are at least more interesting to look at.

I've got most of those, but I never took the time to assemble or detail them. Some of them I've used as parts in dioramas. After viewing yours, maybe I should do something with mine.

I've heard of people escaping the floods, only to have to deal with venomous reptiles. Is that just people making up stories, or is there a serious problem?

Tim's right. Never give up on it. Set it back, and bring out one or two cars at a time to repair them. Work on the truck at intervals, and you'll be surprised at how fast it will all take shape. The only problem I have in restoring models, is I find places where I can still make them better, and often, they take on a life of their own. Good luck.

I was on that other forum for just a very short time. I paid them a compliment, and got it shoved down my teeth...by their management. I dropped my subscription to their magazine, and left there for good. I'm now very cautious of the forums that I hang out on.

I've been watching the news about the floods down under, and I wanted to express my concern and well wishes to all of those who are affected or have loved ones affected. Be safe.

I'm ready to start building.

James, that's wire from an old blue ethernet cable. I've got a couple of hundred feet of that around here, so I should be ste up for awhile.

Hi Rob, and welcome to the forum. This is a fun place to hang out, learn, and share. don't be afraid to show your models.

Tim, I think you've been a naughty boy with the shrink ray again. LOL That's a beautiful build. Your work is always inspiring.

I had to run off for a minute before I was actually done with the post, but the trailer isn't finished yet. I still have some detail work left, and I'm going to be decaling for my own fictitious company.

This is a project that kept me busy for awhile. It's mostly straight from the box, except that I turned the 10 hole wheels into 2 hole, and changed out the rear wheels for spiders. I was nice and gave my mini driver air conditioning, which he/she better appreciate, because that's something that I don't often do.

I've used brake fluid with excellent results for many years, and have had excellent results. No matter what you use, wear gloves and eye protection.

I think that AMT has rereleased it's 64 Ford, which is about as simple as they come. It's simply an unassembled promo.

When it comes to gluing in windows, I follow Kevin's advice; I use Elmer's school glue to start. I let that set for awhile. That way it holds the window in place, and if the window gets bumped, the glue can be washed off with water without any damage. Once that's set then I move on to the permanent glue. Windows can give a beginner, and sometimes, us oldtimers fits. When it comes to spraypainting, I use old spray cans to hold the bodies. I just place a circle of masking tape on the top to hold the body to the can.

I forgot that there is more than one purple pond. I still use brake fluid, and it does better when it's warmer. No matter what you use, wear gloves and PROTECT YOUR EYES.

I get mine from ebay, from a person that goes by ronald6386. He has a very nice selection of "regular people' figures. I do think that the figure from the already mentioned 59 Ford would be an excellent starting point. You'd might want to do some adjustment on the right arm, but that shouldn't be too hard.

Hey, I love it, and I'm over 45. One of my favorite commercials is for some credit card company(even though I don't use credit cards) with a bunch of Vikings causing havoc. The best is where they spot the poor Roman actors, although I'm a little concerned about them being with the goat. LOL

There is a company that makes weather shields for stock trailers. I used to have a link for it, but I can't find it now. That would make a cool detail though.

Often just overnight will be plenty. I've had some that would take a week. There are some paints, such as latex, that it won't touch. I've been using it for over thirty years, and have had excellent results.

To be fair, this would have been in the mid-sixties, probably 65-67. I would have been 11-13. The cars were called super modifieds at that time and came to our track about twice a year, usually at county fair time. Not all of the cars carried the fancy paint, but there were quite a few that did. One that I loved in particular was a medium blue, and when you looked down into the paint, it looked like thousands of diamonds. Under the track lighting, they were a mindblowing sight. I was told that it was crushed glass, and always assumed that I was told correctly. I can sure identify that the expense was over the top, but one sure noticed them.