Ben

Great! Something else I have to convince myself that I don't need!!!!!!

Man, my heart sunk when I saw that pic! You really had it lookin great!!!! I had an ex that knocked over a whole shelf full of built models. The all broke. One of them was a first issue ERTL Backhoe kit that I had built right out of the box with no paint except a little black here and there for detail. To "get back at her" so to say, I rebuilt that backhoe using real John Deere paint and making the front bucket, rear bucket and stabilizers fully articulate! Ten times better than it was before!

Hi Tony, are you saying that the flat surface of the rollers is not the same width as the exhaust stack heat shields? I figured the shields to be 2"-2-1/4" tall so inserting them sideways they would be 2"-2-1/4" wide. I then took in to account the grooves machined into the rollers laving a flat surface of maybe 2-1/2" wide? I wonder if I could machine new, completely flat rollers for it? Maybe even increase the width a little? Does it look like you can disassemble it?

So, I bought the neat little Passche H model airbrush with compressor off ebay. Looks like a nice little setup. Then I remembered.........air surge! Using an airbrush right off a compressor will give you a "pulsing" air supply. I had forgotten this when I was compressor shopping. A little searching and I found this http://autopartstoys.com/i-8540736-smittybilt-universal-xrc-air-tank-2-5-gallon-tank-with-fittings-red-99210-2.html?gclid=CIT9_rXO2rcCFWYV7AodrwQAcg Great little 2.5 gallon air tank with 5, 1/4" bungs to install an inlet line, line to airbrush, a drain and a gauge. The tank comes with all kinds of quick disconnect fittings, pop off, gauge and plastic air line. Pretty good deal for only 59.00! It's bright red too! I'll be installing a water trap on the outlet of the compressor as well as the outlet of this tank.

Nice!

Now the roof is too high!!!!.......................... LOL Sorry, I couldn't resist!!!!!! Looks a LOT better!!!!!! Bradley, being you have so many to play with, wouldn't it be easier to chop the roof off one, leaving a certain amount of post left and then chop the roof off another leaving the entire posts in tact. That way, rather than having to splice in little pieces of plastic, your working with plastic already in the shape you need it to be. I hope this makes sense.

Does anyone have this miniature slip roller from Micro Mark? I am wanting to buy it to bend the photo etch exhaust stack gaurds from a flat sheet, into the tube shape they need to be without kinking. Just wondering if anyone has this and has ran photo etch through it? http://www.micromark.com/bending-machine,7739.html

Wow! Those look great!!!!!! Thanks for letting me know!

I just ordered a bunch of different colors from Scale Finishes and I like to use Tamiya white Fine Surface Primer. Has anyone here sprayed the Scale Finishes over the Tamiya primer with good results?

As they say, good things come to those who wait! I sure wish Revell would have taken a little longer to make thier 1990 Mustang LX kit more accurate!!!! I'm more than willing to wait for a kit to be as close to perfect as possible!

That's a TWH diecast. Expeeeeensive!!!!!!!! I own a couple different rigs from them. They are by far, the best diecast in that scale!!!!!

I'm not sure if he is still making them but Mike Deluco (Shucky) here on the forum had some VERY nice resin turbos and blowers! http://public.fotki.com/HobbyDrop/resin-parts/large-street-turbo-hd102/

Do they make a wider one like that? I build semi truck and the chassis for the tractor or the trailer would need a little over two feet in width to be able set it "inside" the booth.

I have a 1/32 Monongram Super Brut funny car that I built when they first came out in the 80's. It's built very well but I left it in the metallic green that the body was molded in and only sprayed the black on the rear of the body. I then applied all the decals. I need a really good clear coat that won't attack the bare plastic or harm the old decals. Any suggestions?

I'm very familliar with the explosive properties of lacquer fumes and how much sparking can be generated by a brush type motor so I'd feel safer with an explosion proof setup. Is the Badger supposed to be explosion proof?

Dang it!!!!!! I didn't even notice that! You'd think they would use an explosion proof motor on all paint booth's! Does anyone know if they offer this same setup but with an explosion proof motor?

Wow, I was afraid the filters had to be changed after every spray session. That's good to know! I like that paper idea as well! Thank you for the info!

Do you know if there is a tip (or needle?) that comes with the H model for shooting a narrow pattern for getting into tight corners and such without a lot of overspay?

Just wondering if anyone here has this paint booth and if so, how often do the filters have to changed? Does it have a high volume motor for dispersing the fumes? http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=pd_sbs_ac_1

Awesome!!!! I love the Zingers kits!!!!!!

Once I get everything set up I'll be using both guns, I'm sure. I'm shopping for a nice booth now.

Cool! My buddy is a professional painter on the big motorhomes I work on and he has a lot of guns. He bought an Iwata touch up gun and really likes it! I went ahead and bought this combo (link above). Seemed like a pretty good deal. Just need to find a good spray booth or build one now.

Ooops, didn't see you wanted it in a spray can. They do sell those little spray can with the glass jar attached to the bottom that you can pour any paint into and spray.

Here ya go http://www.scalefinishes.com/Ferrari.html Looks like they have several different Ferrari interior colors!

I'm sure it's just the fact that I haven't used it enough to get the feel for it but I get paint splattering some times, I can't tell which needle goes with which tip and what spray pattern each one produces?