Ben

I agree! Very nice work!

I believe in that as well and while I forgot to do that on the Facebook post, I made sure to do it in my email.

Ok guys, I wrote just a long, polite letter to Revell voicing my opinion on this kit. I highly urge those of you wanting them to produce a correct, replacement body, to do so as well. Here is the email to Revell customer service mailto:cservice@revell.com

Rodney, if you part out that Revell Syclone, I'm looking for a complete body unpainted or glued as long as it's the white plastic version. I have plenty of the black ones. Please let me know!

It looks like someone drove a Fiero through Pepboys!

Yes, it is! I was really looking forward to this kit..and I'm a Chevy guy!!!!!! LOL I do love Ford models though for some reason? I wish I knew where to start a petition. So far, that Facebook page is the only place I could find to post something.

For those of you on Facebook, I just left a long comment showing my displeasure for the inaccurate body on the Revell USA page. I hope those of you that feel the same way, will do so as well. If nobody says anything, they're going to think we're happy with it. If we voice our oppinion in these early stages, maybe they will stop production and retool the body? It never hurts to try!

I really think we should start a petition to Revell now before it gets too late to show our disapproval for these inaccuracies! I had every intention of buy six of these kits and just happened to pick one up at HobbyTown today. If they stopped production of the Charger to correct the body, I think they could do it for this kit as well! I gaurantee thaty once word gets out that this body is as inaccurate as the resin versions, people won't buy it! What do you guys think?

The reason they were complaining about the resin bodies is because they were not accuratly proportioned. If you issue a styrene kit with the exact same problem, there's going to be complaining. I can easilly understand that.

That looks really nice!!!!

How are you coming on this? I'm really hoping I can get a resin copy from you when it's finished!!!!!!!! I just bought an AMT Western Star in hopes you'll have it avalable some day!!!! Really awesome job on it so far!!!!!!

Very sorry to hear this Terry. Keeping you in my prayers....

VERY impressive!!!!!!! Really great work!!!!!

Sometimes, there are things that are too small to foil so you almost have to use silver paint. Like a door lock for example. When the object you paint is that small, it's hard to tell between paint and foil. If you do paint something with silver paint, do it after you clear coat the body as the clear will usually dull the silver paint.

If I remember correctly, the MAS wheels had a machined aluminum ring with a flat photo etch circular designed piece that was placed in the center of the aluminum ring.

So very sorry to hear that, Kevin. My condolences to you and all your family.

Wow! That is really nice!!!!!!!! Very nice work!!!!!!!!!

And........who is that girl in your avatar pic!? She's Puuuuurty!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I started casting back in 94 so I'm aware of the many different types of resin and how some can even "bleed" long after the part has cured. The parts I had done were resin, all from the same batch. The reason they didn't turn out well is they were not sprayed properly. It looks like they were rushed. Lots of areas with no plating and rough surface like the basecoat dried as it was being applied. The parts were glass smooth when I sent them. I would think the material the part is made of wouldn't matter as long as there's not a chemical reaction as a basecoat is applied to the part before they are plated. I would think this would seal the part and what you would be actually plating, is the base coat paint itself.

That is a SWEEET GTO!!!!!!!!! What about resin parts? Ever hand any of those plated? I heard he doesn't like to do resin parts.

Who did you have doing your chrome parts back then, Mike? I sent several racks to The Little Motor Kar Co. but only about 1/3 of the parts came back in decent shape.

Fibre Optics are just a "pathway" for transfering light. An actual light source such as an incandecent bulb or LED must be placed in an area where it can't be seen when lit. From there, you place one end of the Fibre Optic strand next to the light and run the strand to it's final location. The light will only shine at the end or "tip" of the Fibre Optic. You can even "mushroom" the end of a Fibre Optic strand to create a larger circle of light by heating a flat piece of metal and using the "Swage" technique. The ends can be painted as well to simulate green backlit guages, red warning lights etc.

Jenga!!!!!!! LOL They look great!!!!

Your doing a beautiful job ob this Scott!!!!!! Keep up the great work at your own pace. I'm sure it will be well worth it!

Wow, what a tool! I tried to leave a "nice" comment under the picture of the Kenworth cabover Aerodyne YOU built but it wouldn't let me for some reason? I love how he even has a little story of how he built and painted it! LOL