torinobradley

Another suggestion is to look at the real car your trying to replicate. That way you can see how the jambs and interior interact with each other. You can also see where the trim goes, where the striker, hinges, and other details. Everything else should only be a matter of cutting and layering plastic.

Awesome idea! Not to mention, they come in all kinds of different shapes and sizes as well as tensions. Many even have gripping pads on them. Heck, you can even leave them on the hanger and use them to paint with...

My (hot rod) mom had bought a '75 with the 262 and knew how to light the tires halfway down the street. She blew that motor out and gave it to my brother who found a 355 motor set up for circle track racing. That thing was stupid fast. With the lateral link from the rear end to the trans, it would lift up the entire car under acceleration... It seemed to accelerate faster than it could brake. And talk about an unassuming little sleeper! And how do you like changing that last spark plug on the drivers side? We found it easier to do it from under the car. Again, welcome aboard!

Now what you got against Vegas? I had a '76 with a Crane cam, Hooker header and Holley carb and it was pretty quick. It was lots of fun to get into a race with and watch their jaw hit the floor when their v6 or even some v8s were left behind. It wasn't the fastest but it would do 110 easy and all day long. And if you know Vegas, 110 is pretty good on that little 140. Anyone remember the Vega Nomad??? How about the Cosworth? Sorry for the hijack, we now return you to your regularly scheduled forum...

Okay, what about my Vega Panel Truck??? It was based on a car but had to be registered as a truck. Had truck plates and all! Had the two front seats and a factory filler panel where the back seats would have been.

Glad to see another one out of the clos...um, yea, what they said... Can't wait to see more models! Welcome to the best board on the web! Your icon, is that a Monza Town Coupe?

Even pre-built/painted die casts are models (in my opinion). It's what you consider them to be that matters. I have lots of both and my shelves would be much more barren if I didn't use die casts as fillers. But, I don't consider them within the same category as the plastic ones. They are less detailed (usually), the working features on them are much more bulky and definitely not in scale (anyone ever see a 1" door to body gap and what the heck do you do with a 1/22.5). I have some die casts that I have detailed or repainted but still don't consider them in the same class as model kits, even if they came in kit form... I like to do the die-casts as they tend to be a quick diversion from my kits that I tend to put far too much detail and work into. It gives me that instant gratification fix and allows me to move on to bigger and better projects. Maybe, one of these days, I'll take a moderately detailed die cast body and create a full detail and fairly accurate model with it but for now, they are separate items on my shelves.

Revell did a River Rat kit that had a Chevy Luv and a small outboard boat and being done in the early 80's or even the late '70s, it wasn't all that modern. It might be worth a lookup. I've been looking for one of the boats and trailers but had no luck yet.

From what I understand, Nitrous don't burn unless your in a movie... Nitrous is a super-cooler and creates a super dense air/fuel mixture. The more air/fuel you cram in a IC engine, the more power you make.

You are in good company my friend. Lots of us here like to build on the cheap. Just need to get in the habbit of looking at everything and think "how can I use that in my models". The list is huge and by no means complete to what you can find and use. Bread ties (plastic and metal), plastic signs, all kinds of wire and cord, if you rip apart that radio that no longer works you can provide yourself with all sorts of different things. Many of the diodes look like fuel filters or cool cans, coils, imagination is the key. Cigarrette package lining, disposalbe butane lighters provide lots of little parts like springs and tiny o-rings you can use for bushings, paper clips, plastic coated paper clips, lollypop sticks (plastic ones), old watches & jewelry from garage sales, all kinds of different toys have goodies in them, many of the items you buy have interesting packaging with unique shapes and such. know someone that smokes cigars? Ask them for the tubes they come in. Those have very thin wood and can be plastic or aluminum. Soda cans are great for sheet aluminum. How about those neat little 'stands' that secure the larger die casts or other toys in their packages? Just keep your eyes and mind open, use your imagination and go from there.

Sorry for reposting the pics but it saves you from having to go back a page to see em... Now THIS is the exception. Most people don't address their aluminum, or any metal, parts in the finish dept and that is what I was getting at. These look realistic and don't have that "out of scale" finish I was referring to. Awesome work and use of finishing methods on ALL of the parts of your build. So, I will correct my statement and say "unfinished" parts don't add to the scale look of a model but make it look sort of toy-ish or out of scale. No offence intended to all our aftermarket companies turning out (turning, get it) high quality parts. I have a box full myself and try to put approriate finishes on them when I use them. Your pics are definetly an inspiration! And I do agree about building for yourself. I love to challenge myself at times and at others, get fed up with never finishing anything and go for a simple build.

The creativity is the main reason I build cars. Except for modeling an actual existing auto, no one can tell you that you did it wrong... Personally, I build to suit the idea in my head for the build I am creating. On my bench are several projects and each is it's own. I'm working on an Accurate Miniatures Grand Sport that I have done so many modifications to and have yet to put paint on anything or even glue the engine halves together... But then again, I have a '65 Vette that is basically a box stock with a few wires thrown in. I build to suit the vision I have for the kit in my head. If it is just a look I'm going for, like the '65, I won't worry so much about all the goofy details but will do things like add wires, lines and carve out the door handles. My vision for the Grand Sport is I want it to look like someone took a shrink ray and hit the real car with it... I want every detail in place on top as well as on the bottom. I want it to look like you can start it up, put it in gear and let it run... Another thing. I don't like to use a whole lot of turned aluminum parts. To me they look too unreal. I don't know what it is but they just don't have the right scale feel to them. Yea, they look cool and add a lot of detail but in my opinion, anyway, they just don't have a scale look. Maybe it's a finish thing. A turned part looks like a turned part no matter what size it is. Ah well, just my opinion.

Am I correct that it will be a 1/24th? Another thing to think about, other than you can build a model of each of the CDCs for the price of one of those resin pops, is that the chassis will be a monoleaf 289 chassis and a correct chassis for all those resin FIA roadster bodies... That is, if I am thinking correctly. Correct me if I'm wrong, just don't flame me...

Looking good so far! I like the color combo. Have you considered painting the spokes of the wheel to match the car? Did the kit come with only these fenders or did it have the orginals as well?

That is AWESOME! There are so many HotWheels that would make good models, in my opinion anyway... I have a Sooo Fast project in the bench rotation. Started with the ZZ Top '34 and went to town. I can throw a pic or two up if you like. How are you going to manage the transaxle? I went with an MPC Coyote (GT40 Mk 4) rear suspension since the build had to be a pre-'70s. I'll be watching this one!

I think the deal with the Ford pickups was a cruise control sensor or something. There was a recall for it. I own a '97 and had the recall service performed so I'm good. 149k and still going. Oh yea, the burned out cars... How many of us older kids haven't seen a burned out beetle?

Have any of the fine resin casters on this board ever looked into casting up the parts to convert the current (or at least latest) version into the illustrious Salt Shaker? I'm sure more than a couple of us would throw money at them. Especially if they can get the decals done too... Just a thought...

Awesome job! I especially like your weathering and wear on the tires. So many junkers and clunkers overlook this. Looks like you got a whole lotta miles on them guys along with some alignment issues. I'm still trying to figure out a convincing way to make flats and convincing tire bulges. I thought about trying to heat the tire slowly in an oven to a bit under melting temp and then press them on the edge where the flat spot would need to be. Has anyone tried this? One other question: I see the scratches on the body, is there a special way to do these or just put em in with whatever took you choose be it xacto or large grit sandpaper and then do a rust wash?

There should have been another option or three. I have gotten several items from them including a jewelers loop I just got today. I have several of these tweezers and they're good for the price.

I usually check a couple of discount sites every day or so and these were on there: Tweezers for .39 http://dealnews.com/High-Precision-Anti-Static-Stainless-Steel-Tweezers-for-39-cents-free-shipping/377293.html Flex shaft rotory tool with bits for $19 http://dealnews.com/Northern-Industrial-Rotary-Tool-Kit-for-19-free-shipping/377257.html Worth checking out if your in the market.

I went here the other day to pick up wheel dollys so I could move my car around the garage and picked up a pack of small drill bits and a small wrok stand with the weighted base, aligator clips and magnifyer. There is a role of cheap tools in every thing. If you buy a cheap tool and it never breaks or goes bad, you never needed a good tool in the first place, but if it does go south, buy a better one. Things like the little drill bits, I break if they're good ones or cheapies...

If you consider the resin route, Historic Racing Miniatures has a FIA Small Block motor with the correct oil pan and four Webber downdrafts. Might be worth looking into. http://www.stradasportsstore.com/product782.html Good luck!

Just wanted to chime in and let you know I got the care package. Thinking about taking a different route on this one. Don't wanna spill no beans.

Don't forget the mount on the bottom of the alternator as well. I tend to use a short piece of bell wire where I remove small sections of the insulation on either end and insert one side into the head and the other to the bottom ear of the alternator. This adds strength to the assembly as well as positively positions the alternator. Then, you can use chartpack tape, masking tape or other medium to make realistically thin belts.

Looking good! Funny, the frontend for mine is a narrowed '53 grill... I'd bob the tail and the frame for that monster. Oh, and where you getting cycle fenders that wide for the rear? I have some '70s Ford dog-dish caps in my stash and realized, they'd look great on mine. Looking at yours stuck that bit of inspiration into my head. I might have to pull mine out again. Keep us updated on this roadster.