torinobradley

Speed is addicting. I have a Traxxis Rustler that I put an 11t motor in and grafted on another battery. I know what you mean about the blown up tires... At that speed, the out of balance wheels and tires were making the truck rattle so I used a prop balancer and the sticky lead fishing weight tape to balance them. I also have a Kyosho Spyder GP10 with a .21 motor, four wheel drive and two speed trans. That thing is wicked fast... I need to get one-ways for front and rear. I hit the brakes and the thing goes into a spin.

I'm intersted though, like the rest of us, time would be a factor. I'm sure I'd get it started and the general ideas going (with a full version in my head) but I couldn't promise a completion date. I'd also be interested in your other bodies. I've seen what you've done with them and they're amazing in their own right. Any chance of getting a copy of those?

This thing is looking great! The colors really go together and make this one unique. Now if you were going factory, the bottom pannel on the dash (where the radio is) and the very bottom section of the door panels are the only parts that have the exterior color on steel. Everything else has the interior color(s). Also, I think the guages are silver with black lettering. At least that is the way my 1:1 is. The guage lenses are conical. I made mine with a cone shaped punch, a candle and some clear blistarcard packaging and then cut them out with a hole punch. Oh, and Kudos to you for foiling the A pillar. Lots of folks miss that. I'm looking forward to seeing this one done as I have a simular project further down the pipeline. Keep up the great work!

In a word "WOW"

Didn't Ford run the 429s in Nascar? I read somewhere they did and somewhere they didn't. It was the whole reason for the 429 Boss Mustangs. And what was up with Dodge being able to run dual carbs on those hemis? Wierd rules back then (if I am remembering correctly)... Jairus did a nice supercharged pro stock Talladega that is in the drawing board section! I have plans for a Land Speed Talladega as well, somewhere...

I have a project in mind akin to this somewhere down the pipeline. A Talladega Boss 429 phantom factory stock. I have the 429, scoop and Boss decals from the 70 Mustang to go into and onto the Talladega. A pro touring version would look great too. I will be watching...

I used to use the tall drawer thingies for sorting all the parts till my cat getting in/out of the windowsill taught me the error of my ways. That, and picking up hundreds of little, little parts from a few square yards of carpet... Now, I use the clear-ish flat boxes in a couple different sizes. I have them labeled and keep the bulk of the parts together and have a couple of special ones for special parts. I also have several of the clear dollar store shoe boxes that I put kits I'm working on, bashing projects and things like model A & T bodies. I also have a few of them that are full of complete engines, wheel sets, detailing products like photo-etched and resin. Each placed in the little baggies you can get at the hobby stores. That way, when I complete and part out the kit, I take the complete optional engine and place it all in a baggie and put it in my engine box. One other thing I do that really helps is use some clear snap boxes when I am working on a kit. I place all the small parts that are easily lost and damaged into the snap box, inside the kit box. That way, that little control arm/shifter/wheel/whatever is right where I need it when I'm ready to paint/install it. Far less lost parts that way... Models scheduled for rebuild get placed in a gallon sized baggie to minimize lost parts and then are placed into one of the large flat tubs for easy access and retrieval. I also just started to put a lot of my modeling tools into the flat compartment containers, the ones with the removalbe dividers. Had to downsize my tool box and those fit the new work area. And, as required, everything is labeled, though with cheap sticky labels from Walmart. The shoe box size get 3X5 index cards.

The finned drum and the wheel are separate items. Beautiful to be sure. I wouldn't mind a few sets of these cast up either.

A hydrogen peroxide accident sank the Kirsk... That's what they think, anyway. Nice kit, btw... Might have to get one. Maybe adapt one to a Land Speed Racer?

Awesome ideas, everyone! I'm picking up on a few like the squeeze bottles. Now for mine. I'm loosing the hobby room for a relative and in so doing, have to condense my model area. We bought a fairly large computer armoir and I am migrating my essentials into that area. I bought several of the semi-clear organizers that you can find at almost any sporting goods (fishing), hobby chain or hardware store and am using them for a lot of my tools like knives, sanding sticks, etc... My tall toolbox wouldnt fit... Oh, and I use old coffee cups for pens, emery boards, hemostats and such. OH, Hemostats! Anyone else use these little gems? I bought a bag at a garage sale a few years ago with about 100 for $5... I always see 'em at the flea markets too. Great little clamps. And my number 1 tool now. The one I use the most. I use it every time I hit the bench. Wait for it... Reading glasses... Friggin' eyesight... I don't need glasses, just reading glasses to see up close.

That's rough! I seem to end up in such a boat more than I should. I do know that some of the Krylons are easily removed with gasoline. You might try that. It may not affect the clear. Worth a shot, anyway. Good luck!

Looking great! Practically picture perfect! What did you make the drivers pod out of? It looks like the same kit plastic. Do tell! A suggestion for rounding out the fender vents. I used a very small needle file on my Grand Sport's vents but if you don't have one of them, you can take a small piece of wood like a coffee stir or popsicle stick, sand the edge to the rounded countour and wrap sandpaper around it. That should give you a nice tool to even up and round out the vents to match the rendering. Good luck!

Lookin great! I built the Smoothster and know what your going through. Although I wasn't missing any parts, I had other issues. After I got it all glued together, I noticed it listed to one side... I had to snap the body back off the frame, shave and file the body and frame until they sat correctly. The chassis is very nice and I am sure would be right at home under a bunch of other kits. I still have the coupe somewhere as well. I had done mine in two tone silver with a maching chassis. I'll post pics if you want or you can search for it by "Smoothster". looking forward to seeing this one done. Keep up the good work!

I have an idea drawn up right along these lines but in a land speeder trim. I even used the same windscreen. HRM has that windscreen if you dont have one from a cobra. Looks like you got a lucky draw on this challenge! Lookin' good. Real good...

I have this one in my collection but am fairly turned off by the curbside aspect. But, after seeing what can be done with them, I guess I'm gonna have to get this one across the bench. I should have some Mecom blue left over from my Grand Sport when I'm done...

To each his own. Some people like girls in period racy clothing and some people like old guys. Let the guy live his dream...

If it's anything like it's 1:1 counterpart, it should be crashing into model store shelves near you soon. That is, until they recall them...

I must have been around 5 when my dad got a Jaguar XK-E that we started to build. I remember the rear door opened or was a separate piece and have never been able to find the same kit. Anyone know? I know my enthusiasm pretty much botched the job but it lead me on a great journey of models getting less and less botched as they went along...

This is one I used salt on. As well as rubber cement, drybrushing and crimson and black ink washes on. It seems the dirtier my hands got, the better the model looked... The process was to start with a lighter green to represent faded paint, then heavily drybrushed dark silver over it, then put salt down and sprayed the darker green over it. Brushed it off, put rubber cement where the decals were to be applied, then put the tank decals on, then rubbed off the rubber cement and sanded a bit to soften the edges, then drybrushed again with a dark silver to represent wear areas. Then came the red/black ink washes. Went with more red where rust would be and more black where grime would be. It was a fun (though messy) build. I love weathered builds and am amazed at some of the beautiful rust bucket cars that you artists crank out (pun intended)... I have a Cameo on the drawing board that would be a "project" model. It will combine rusted metal and damaged/rotted fiberglass, as well as some work done and some to do. Cracked windows, missing trim, torn seat, missing radio, hanging wires and all that type of thing... Should be a lot of fun to do.

Awesome stuff! Great new take on the two tone paint. Smooth and glossy as well! I like the chassis mods as well. Got a couple of these in the stash and thanks to Jairus, got some ideas for em. I do want to make one into a LSR as well. Keep it up, I'm followin'...

Awesome build! Hope to get to one of these someday. Looking forward to the Cobra Daytona and Fujimi GT40 upgrades as well.

Was that the right way with modified springs and lowered spindles or the low-buck way where they heat the springs till they sag and the truck rides on the rubber snubbers??? Nice save!!! I, too have one of these waiting in the "save" pile. I only hope it comes out this good.

I was thinking the dryer sheet idea as well but I remember painting one once and it didn't have much thickness or bulk. I would suggest a few layers of them glued tightly (less tightly for a more used car) and maybe that will add the bulk and a little thickness. I haven't done it yet but have lots of dryer sheets waiting...lol

I seem to remember the stock exhaust manifolds being a light tan color with little spots of rust. Anyone else??? After looking online, I see they are combinations of gray, tan, rust, black and other, unidentified colors... I would suggest, after giving it some texture if it has none, using a rust color, then a light drybrushing of tan and then using a blackish brown wash to give it depth. Then flatcoat it. And then, for the final touches, spritz (like with a toothbrush) the rusty color back over it in a random pattern to give it a speckled look. Then, if staining is desired, maybe some thinned india ink where oil would have stained it. That's how I'd do it, anyway...

But now you have a 5 string guitar... Actually, it's a great idea. I have guitar strings in my source box and use them for many things, including antennas. I also like to use the wrapped ones for armored brake lines and emergency brake cables. Other antenna options I have used in the past are music wire and stainless steel leader wire from the fishing dept. It's bright and shiny...