Scott Colmer

Wow! That is beautiful!

SWEET!

These are awesome Curtis! Well done, and Like Jarius said - Great subject matter. I like he Rose Special best. Something about the heater hose trumpets and a canted engine. All so very cool. Scott

I spotted that in a Salinas folder. Recognized it right away! Great idea!- but you were busted cold. Scott

I've really enjoyed this thread. I am prertty sure that dremmel does not make those super fine blades anymore. I asked Mike Flynn at Pegusus who made them. He said "The devil." I still have one left. I named it the death saw. If they are handled correctly - AKA Zuk's post - they are a good tool. You can make a finer cut than a #11 blade. If you drink wine with dinner - DO NOT pick it up. They smell weakness and love fingers. I know. Scott

Good for you, Marcos. I appreciate your dedication to accuracy! Looks like you got the manifold right, and the engine set back is much better. Since you are going with more accuracy, are you going to include the factory oil cooler? Rotarys need them because they tend to run hot. It's a great build! I look forward to seeing more. Scott Here is a link to a pic that shows where the oil lines go. Just scroll down a bit. http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm This is a blown intercooled version for an unfinished project. Hosted on Fotki

This is a great build! I occasionally buy a Hot Wheel if it looks neat -I have this one, so watching this build has been fun. I'll keep following all the posts wherever I see them. Great fabrication all around. Ingenious fabrication on the scoop too. The upward tilt is a little different, but I see it is a good match to the Hot Wheel. I think brushed aluminum would be a good look for the caps. Scott

It's back! YIPEE!

This is coming along nicely. I am looking forward to seeing it come together. It's been fun to watch. Great stuff! My high school car was a Bug Eye Sprite with a ported rotary. It was a blst, but not exactly quiet. Just as an FYI... There are three types of porting that can be done to a Wankle (rotary) engine 1) A regular street port which simply ones up the the existing L shaped ports that start on the outside and the make a turn into the combusiton chamber. These will show 4 induction ports on the plates like yours does. My Sprite had this. 2) The next is a bridge port where a second port is cut into the plate after the second leg of the L that faces the combustion chamber. Depending on the size of the second port, these are barely streetable, but fast as He))! They also have a wicked lope. I've ridden in a couple of theses. 3) The port style is the perfial port. The L ports are sealed up and holes are cut directly into the chamber. The souped up pic you have is of a perifial port. I have never heard of one of these being able to run on the street. You would have to have a pretty exotic fuel arrangement. I've never heard one run. Let's see how wild you get! Scott

Good one Alyn. LOL - Oh wait, why am I laughing. No, I use tweezers...... No wait. ....to build with. Oh dang it. Back through the worm hole.... Thanks for all the encouragement, gents! Scott

Opps forgot to check the clearance of the calipers to the 32 rim bolts. They hit and need to be moved outward. Fortunately I have a BUNCH of those little Grantline hex nuts. Here I have already shaved off the bolts and scraped off the foil. Hosted on Fotki OK, now that I've fixed that, time to start putting it all together. Until I realized I did not order enough R&B rod ends. Oh well, good time to take a break. Here is how it looks so far. Not sure I like the steering knuckle set up. All the steering had to go on top for clearance. Those extension tubes, still in white, are the issue. I'll have to do a couple sketches to see if I can find something better. Hosted on Fotki Back to the bench. Scott

Call it what you will, it still looks very cool. Actuallyy you gave me the idea to build a 50's or late 60s Pro tour car using only what was available at a give time. Still could be LOTs of neat performance stuff taken from the Can Am and Indy circuit. Hmmmmm. Scott

Excellent job Tommy. Probably the best rendition of the Boothill I have ever seen. You really set the mark with this one!! Scott Have I seen this on a "showrod" site before?

Got mine and it was beat up too. For some reason only my model mags get thrashed. S'up with that? What surprised me more was Brad Leisure's rendition of this drawing I posted here a year ago. That was pretty neat. Oh, way to go with the cover, Dave Scott Hosted on Fotki

The pedal assembly is back. I corrected some of the previous errors and made a couple upgrades. Hosted on Fotki Got me some faux spun aluminum front rims too. Look pretty close to the real spun disks, don't they. Took a bit of experimenting to figure that one out. Hosted on Fotki Back to the garage. I'm almost ready to mount the front axle. Scott

Art, I have been following that thread at SAE and also replied to it. The point Jim was trying to make - and restated for clarity - was that he felt judges should not use magnifying devices to ferret out flaws in contest models. I disagreed with him. Pretty simple. Unfortunately, a lot of posters got off topic regarding personal level of vision, and from where I sat it you fell in to that group. Maybe that was a topic for another thread. I surely do not feel there was any disregard for people with less than 20/20 vision. And Jim definitely did not advise excluding anyone with visual aids from participating in contest judging. I bring powerful reading glasses to contest because I can't see detail without them; I did not feel my civil rights were disregarded in any way. Art, I think you set up a straw man on this one. By the way, Art - How is progress on the Waterless. Wonderful piece. A couple notes on the "other" forum. I am grateful that we have at least two major forums to entertain us and bring us together. They are different and they should be. I post at both and like both. I prefer to post here because for what ever reason I feel the atmosphere has been more relaxed here. Remember, it's only a hobby. It's what we do to relax. Scott

This came up during family gathering. First I have to define model car builders. It has to be someone who builds at regular intervals at least 2 or more hours a week on average and has done so for at least 2 year. They would be more likely use their own money to buy a kit. This isn't a hard and fast definition, but it should put us in the ball park. I ventured to guess at least 30,000 world wide. My family went MUCH lower. Anyone else? Scott

Excellent stuff, Mark. I really like the dry brush on the hut. I am still trying to find the hidden 7 in there. I'll go back and count the fan blades. Very kool - very Kleen. Scott

Glad I didn't miss this one! GREAT WORK!!!!!!!! Scott

WOW, Curt!!!! That is really nice. It all flows so well. Great job!!!!!!

This is a STUNNING piece of work! Top notch all the way! I do have one quesiton: This is the thrid time I've seen a distributor mounted on an intake cover. The models have been by some high level builders, so I am assuming the set up works. The question is - How? Scott

First- KUDOS for wanting to use sanding blocks! You will get a much better finish on you model because of it. Sticks are good, but personally I like the that hard back for the final surface. I use any block I can find and shape. Wooden clothes pins are great for smaller surfaces. Remeber to consider the size of the area you want to smoother. Covering more is better. Also consider your stroke when sanding. Helps keep you from oversandingand digging a shallow holes. Go have fun.

OUCH!!!!! Area 51 spy photo. DeathSaw (seen with evil look) grabbed the multi-MULTI-piece pedal assembly during a fluid jar trim and slammed it against the back of the work bench. Here we have the remains. I already recreated the new caps. We can rebuild it. We have the technology..... Hosted on Fotki

This is an amazing piece of work! I think the beads look a bit high. But you are the one that has to be happy with them. Check some chassis sites like Alston. Can't wait to see more! Scott

Ok I have an ink jet printer, but how do I get fine quality out of it? I am trying to print gauges and the numbers are plugging up. I would much rather have numbers than number like blobs. It is a HP photosmart express.