horsepower

Glad it's back close to the top. I know it was at the top for a long time and when it disappeared I thought it was removed for some reason. Guess I learned to ask questions about missing posts.

I like it without the rocker molding, in fact most of these I saw in SS package were without the extra bright work, they didn't have the chrome strip on the side either. A few guys put the after market aluminum moldings with the vinyl inserts on to help with door dings, but most of those had either the black or a silver vinyl insert, my favorite was just leaving the molding off completely, just looked cleaner and meaner to me.

It's kinda hit and miss, a couple showed up for me, one of the engine in a blue bay, and one of the model with the whitewalls on it, the rest are MIA, but DID get enough to see a super nice build going.

My father in law had a '70 Charger bronze w/white vinyl top, that had whitewalls on it when he bought it and he always had to have them with ANY new tires, even his mud and snow tires had whitewalls. To me they just looked right on the cruiser version.

your photos aren't showing up.?

Technical, or physical virus? Either way we hope it's cleared up and everything is going good for you.

ME TOO! You might try on the next one with headers to route the plug wires into a four square (with a loom or just use thread tie wraps) down the back of the engine along the bell housing/head area to just below the header then forward and at each plug route the plug wire up from the loom to the plug, makes a very sanitary clean looking setup. Keep up with the Chevy, they're a rare breed, must not survive well in captivity. That's why they HAVE to be wild!

Harry, you should know that a good rod builder (regardless of size) doesn't have the words "won't work" in their vocabulary. With a little forethought and planning I think it could be pulled off reasonably well, what would really set it off would be to figure out how to use the chevalay hub caps, those bowties would be something truly unique.

Well, you did mention the Alexander Brothers build of the Deora, and not sure if you're talking about Don Tognotti's (Tognotti's Auto World in Sacramento) King T or what. But I've been lucky enough to see it when it was on the circuit when it won the AMBR, and decades later it was on display in the store in Sacramento, also last year it was on the Barrett Jackson auction after it's restoration.

Wouldn't a past winner of America's Most Beautiful Roadster, be considered a show car? We have the Ala Kart, but how about a reissue of the XR-6 roadster? We've been given the '27 T touring that was part of the dual kit when it was first issued, but the Roadster seems to have disappeared, we haven't seen that trick little slant six with its Webers and long tube headers in another kit so maybe some of the parts still exist.

Yes sir, that was the right place, thanks!

Nice build of a great old kit. You've drug it out of the shadows of its '69 counterpart and made a star out of it again.

This is Japan's version of the 240Z, I have a friend who was the Datsun dealer way back then and he built a Z using all the trick motor stuff he special ordered from Japan and it was like that engine on the right DelOrto carbs (Weber copies) header and all, that three into one, then dual exhaust was a window breaker without a balance tube between the collector's later he went with the two collectors into one three inch exhaust and it was very deep and mellow sounding with more power than the dual set up.

You can get the one headlight front fender either from an early fifties resin or wait till Revell releases the Foose Eldorod kit it has the correct style, the left rear can come from around a '67 Eldorado, the right rear from a '64, the top CAN be made using the half top from the AMT '50 Ford Convertible kit, the left front fender from the Ecto 1 Ghostbusters kit, the hood from one of the Johan Hearse or ambulances, I'm out of ideas for now, but I'll be thinking about it and checking in to see how it's going. I saw Johnny and June do this in person and they played the video on a big screen OF the real car, it was just after they were given the "PsychoBilly Cadillac".

yep! That's the guy, I was just going to let Brad know I found my bookmark with his site on it, he's got some very nice stuff, not just Sprint Cars either. Thanks Art, I knew someone would save me.......again??

Asking for help again, I swapped magic boxes (computers) and can't find my bookmarks of resin casting companies (well some of them anyway) I'm trying to locate the information about an Aussie caster that makes some nice Sprint Car stuff, and some early hot rod pieces too. I think he even sold on eBay but since I don't remember the name of his company that doesn't help me either. Since I know I'll have answers before I wake up tomorrow I'll just thank all of you now.

Brad, I haven't been able to find the name of Australian resin caster yet, but I I haven't given up. The Action car I'm referring to is a 1/24 scale die cast that I picked up a couple of on a closeout sale, paid $10 each for a pair of Danny Lasoski #20 Home Depot cars. They have the correct front tires, and the air box and a usable dry sump oil tank among other things. And for what I paid I don't mind taking them apart, just wish I had enough experience to resin cast a couple for other builds.

You're really doing good, I really like the injector bodies you have, where DID they come from? I'm either going to cut up a set from the injected big block Corvette, or rob a 1/24 scale Action diecast for some better looking ones. The Action car is also giving up its air cleaner box because it's such a good one without having to order the one from the Aussie resin caster, BUT he does have some nice stuff. While you're at it remember those injector lines are fabric and rubber, not stainless braid, and there's a second set that goes to the down nozzles on the cylinder heads, (they go directly into the combustion chamber on the real car), and if you're really wanting a correctly plumbed injection, if you can get an issue of Sprint Car and Midget magazine there are several ads from different engine builders that have some pretty clear pictures of the complete ready to install engines, and some of the issues have some really good pictures of teams in the act of changing engines and you can see exactly what a dressed one looks like without the air box in place, you can also get some pretty good pictures of the Mallory Pro Mag II that most teams are running, you can get a pretty good one in the drag race style but they're bigger in diameter than the sprint car version, using a detail master vertex mag kit with a standard V-8 distributor cap on top and using transparent red for the body of the mag is what I used I used a red sharpie to color the mag then cleared over it to protect it.

There were two releases in '91, one with the messed up cowl and the corrected one, the corrected one has a sticker on the box to tell you that it's been corrected and is a new body mold. Subsequent issues didn't need the sticker because they had a different copyright year on the box.

Oops, forgot to tell you what a great job you're doing on this beautiful land yacht. Now I have to get the Bubble Top Impala I've been putting off because I was afraid to do the fine chrome emblems and letters in this style. But after seeing your photos I think I have a grasp on how to at least give it a try... Guess it's good that I have more than one to play with.

Just curious why you didn't put the yellow on the emblems before burying them under clear? You could also use a transparent yellow on the pointed Q tips and get your gold effect, but you might find that a thin coat of transparent orange would look more like gold, in the case of gold anodized aluminum, in most cases it's done with a transparent orange and not allowed to achieve the true orange shade.

I'm getting into this pretty late in the game, but for anyone who's interested, you CAN'T JUDGE colors by what you see on screens, or what you see in print. The only true way to check a color is with an actual PAINTED chip, or panel. Inks and color pictures can't capture the exact dyes or toners to get the color right in print and even digital photography isn't fool proof because it still relies on an existing color palette, not the actual pigments. So if you are happy with what you have, chances are it's extremely close if the paint formula was followed carefully by who mixed it.

But it is a good way to get some "me" time to look over the newest acquisition from the local plastic pusher.?

Looks like the gravel tires to me.

One of the old annuals I've heard nothing about but I know existed because I built one when it was new, was the '59 Pontiac two door hardtop. I don't think it would have been made into a '60 since about the only item on the body that was even close would have been the top