horsepower

A lot of people made the mistake of picking up three two barrel carbs and putting them on the aftermarket (or factory option in some cases) and trying to adjust the idle on ALL THREE carbs to match, or at least run smoothly. What most don't know is that only the center carb is supposed to even have an idle circuit, and on factory setups there isn't even provisions for it, but you CAN cheat and use production standard two barrel carbs, just screw the air bleed adjustment screws ALL the way in then adjust your center carb so the engine idles right. My younger brother had a blown Chrysler in a flat bottom Sanger that had been a fuel flat bottom drag boat that had been detuned for a ski boat and the big thing they did was remove the injection and put two 750 competition Edelbrock carbs on the blower but he always had a problem with not getting it to idle slow enough to go through marinas and launch areas, and it would on occasion load up and foul a plug or two if you tried to idle into a long cove and I told him I'd fix it if he'd listen. I just shut the idle screws down to one of the carbs and it made it as docile as a little lamb, it would slow right down to 5 mph, wouldn't load up, and when skiing all you had to do was bump the starter when your skier was ready and it would fire up instantly and pop your skier right out of the water (direct drive V drive) since both carbs went directly into the blower it didn't know how many carbs or what was putting air and fuel into the engine it would mix it equally and dump it where needed. Another friend had a T bucket roadster with a 283 and powerglide with six twos and it was so simple to make a mild street driver, we just put sheet metal pieces cut to the gasket shapes under the front and rear carbs and didn't put set screws in the linkage on those four, it ran just fine on the center two carbs and no one ever figured out how we made it idle and drive so clean on a stock little motor.

there is a trick that keeps the exhaust from bluing, especially on the heavy cast manifolds, we would coat the inside with a thick layer of white grease and if you didn't go out and stand on it before it "cooked" and cooled it would hold up to just about anything but wide open throttle freeway runs. We even used it on "T" buckets with sprint car type headers and after ten years they're still chrome without any bluing.

O.K. I have to admit I'm probably the worst person there is for putting off today something I can do tomorrow, but I've really been bit on the tail this time. I've been trying to collect parts for building a model of my uncle's '59 Chevy Impala, and have almost everything but the hubcaps he ran, and I was going to order a set from Modelhaus, and that's not possible now, so if any has a set of the full wheel covers for a '57 Plymouth they're not going to use...they're the ones that have a band of small rectangles around the outer band and are a full pointed in the center cap that is almost like a spun disc, but high shine. I'm willing to trade or purchase. Thanks for any answers, Del Streetman.

How about the auto trans in the Moebius 390 equipped Ford pickup kit?

that one looks like a generic 327 powered version at best, not an SS 396 from my viewpoint anyway.

Those white tops were for visibility, makes it a little easier to spot a dark blue car ripping along a black runway at pretty high speeds and through a tiny cockpit window. And the boys at Beale were very proud of all their equipment and since they had the time it was always kept up to the highest standards of good looks, finding one that wasn't spotless and up to the best shine possible was grounds for spending time doing a lot of cleaning on things you really wouldn't want to clean if you had your choice.

If you're interested in anything particular put it up here, I'm Kinda partial to the Revell Ed Roth Road Agent kit, and have a large assortment of kits, and if you're by chance a NASCAR fan I have a LOT of pre 99 kits, and tons of NASCAR aftermarket decals.

I know you probably have seen this in here before, but you do know that the channeled and deuce versions both use the same floor piece, the only difference is the side panels. The other floor is not for the roadster.

The ones in the '39-'40 sedan kit are for an Oldsmobile engine, and the port spacing is different on an Olds, it's closer to a Chevrolet type.

If you want to add injection, the optional ones from the '53 Ford pickup kit should fill the void pretty well, there's a bunch of different Hemi intake options in that kit.

Is it just me, or do those C pillars look a little swoopy to anyone else? Might just be warpage, but they have a definite curve to them that the 1:1 doesn't seem to have, and the hood bulge looks a lot bigger than the Keyser car pictures, but might be right for the Dekon car.

Forgot to welcome you to the forum, and tell you how much I like your build. You guys wouldn't want to trade an orange haired loudmouth for some good wet weather would you? Lol.

Hey! I've got the same high tech paint stand you do. But I still prefer my trusty quart can of rubber cement, it holds them flatter and is a little more stable.

the glue kits won't say molded in Carmine Red on the box, and are full detail, so the parts breakdown on the bottom of the box will have parts trees containing engine pieces. Sure hope they're out, but the wifey will threaten to kill me if I drag another kit in this week.

Surprisingly enough mine is swirl free, if it weren't for the suede look it would be as nice as the pearl orange finish on the old Copperhead concept car snap kit was. I can remember some of the metallic molded kits that had nice color, but looked like something a Starbucks barrista was experimenting with while trying to come up with a psychedelic pattern in a mocha latte.

Not a complete review, I just picked mine up and the body is fantastic! I truly had to search to find the almost nonexistent mold parting lines on the four corners. What through me is they aren't right on the corners, they're slightly down the sides. The red metallic is a little on the dull side for a snap kit, it almost appears like one of those "suede" finishes that are gaining popularity. But since I'm going to cover it in a red tri-coat finish using Tamiya red metallic, transparent red mid coat, and one coat lacquer wet look clear. Well that's as far as I got into the box before the wife said I couldn't look it over in the parking lot and made me put the body back in the box.

I'm glad they molded the subframe separately, makes it a lot easier to use on building street rod models, that are more correct to current 1:1 building styles, they're excellent for updating '55, & '57 Chevy pickup kits, and not bad on the '64 -'66 pickups to make a more modern front suspension. Now if Revell would just reissue the Beatnik Bandit II so I could get some good Pinto/Mustang II front suspension parts reasonably priced.

I want one too. I see Dale Earnhardt Sr. and Harry Gant Busch Grand National's in the works.

Nice. Almost looks like a '60s slot car.

punch out some styrene discs in the sizes you need, you can paint them aluminum and once they're all assembled the only part showing will be that edge, and then use an aluminum detail pulley of the right diameter to make it look right, maybe a power steering or harmonic balancer face will work for you.

Have you tried a mockup of stacking different sized aluminum discs for the V-belt drive, the only one that would require any real detail then would be the outside one.

I must have got hosed, mine has bumper guards, but I did look close at the box build and it looks like that one has used the wagon FRONT bumper without guards that IS in both the first issue kit I have and this one too. Does your kits have two bumpers without guards?

Has anyone tried using the "decal-it" craft stuff? You coat the face of the artwork you want to use, then use warm water to gently wash away the paper backing leaving just the ink. Then trim it to fit in the area you want it after it's dry. Seems like it might work on these to help get them a little thinner, also if you have used some of these type of items you'll sometimes have the white edge of the cut of the paper show up, a tip is to use a sharpie and just run it lightly along just the edge of the paper. It will hide the white edge and won't show up when you're done.

the kit still has the rear bumper with the guards, even though the box photos show it without any guards. They're still on the instruction sheet too.

Actually they were available in 13" five lug pattern to fit the Corvair, and the early Dodge Dart (but the tiny 4" bolt circle for the Dart was a special order)