horsepower

Beautiful car and shows a lot of talent and searching for the proper details, only thing that detracts a little is it looks like somehow the chassis locators or something caused the chassis to be assembled a little to far forward under the fenders, at first I thought it was the kit had the rear wheels off, but it's not just the rear wheels, it's all four. And if the chassis moves a tad to the rear it will even make more room for the front tires to turn in before having an interference problem with the fenders. The only thing I have to ask is why did you hide the golf clubs? I know that the owner just have to have a set.

For the wheels, do an eBay search for; fujimi tires and wheels, and click the description box. I know I've seen about the same set on there, but you'll have to paint the centers unless you get lucky and they're one of the two piece sets with just outer hoops and unpainted centers, and you might have some trouble finding the proxis tread pattern in wide enough tires, I've picked up a couple of sets but not that wide on Wal-Mart brand diecast of the Pontiac two seat roadster, and it's Saturn counter part, I got lucky and found them in a clearance aisle for $4.00 each.

Maybe it's what you have planned, but I can see the lower parking/signal lights from the Cadillac bumper being used incorporating that part of the bumper as light pods, and turn them into modern projection beam style headlights. Stripping the chrome and doing a little body work to the cut areas on the bumper then paint body color, and use either foil or good silver in the light buckets, I've heard of guys using alclad chrome with a brush in small spots like that with good luck. Keep on building it's really got that "Look" to it.

Thank you, she brought it home Monday night and I played with the body drooling over it for an hour, took ALL the stuff out of the box to check it out, and luckily felt something sliding down my leg (I'm still bed bound after surgery in January) and looked down just in time to see the tire bag slipping slowly away, it was being very carefully taken by our sneaky little two and a half year old miniature Dachshund, he got busted and luckily hadn't started chewing yet, this is the dog that it took us six months of buying every indestructible toy made before we finally found one he couldn't destroy in less than an hour. So I put the bags back in the box and marveled at the body, and for those that have seen the pictures and wondered about that Stinger hood scoop, it doesn't run onto the front header panel like it does in the artwork for the box, they probably never changed anything, but I don't remember my first issue of this body being so clean, I haven't found a body mold line that really need anything other than a pass or two of 800 paper, the worst one is across the upper rear edge of the deck lid, and the spoiler will cover that if I don't want to mess with it. Not really excited about the decals for the seat inserts, to me it's asking a lot for decal setting solution to get these to snuggle down into the molding on the seats and I don't think without setting solution they will even work enough to look right, but I'm sure someone who will prove me wrong. The other minor thing is that the air injection pump for the emissions control will have to be removed from the belt assembly and a small piece of styrene strip cut to fit in the place between the lower pulley and the alternator, the two four barrel carbed cars didn't have the air injection pump in place from the "factory". And a car with aftermarket tubular headers would be extremely rare to have an operational one still in place, most of the small block, and even the big block guys who had cars with them from the dealer took them off and stuck them in the garage. I came across the ones for my 2.8 Mustang II we built a strong motor for, and it was a pain to do all the work to hook one up to the four barrel manifold, also found three of them off the 2.3 Pinto's we had. Us old racers are almost as bad as a modeler about never getting rid of anything, and my wife says it's really bad when you have an old racer who also builds models, our parts boxes are much bigger.

There's some really interesting stuff in there, especially the different 1/24 scale figures for diorama displays. I was asking my wife how long she thought it would take some enterprising modeler to remove the wrench from the hands of the one lying on her back working under the car in a slinky dress, and putting her in the car instead. But it better have lay down seats I don't know of one with a wide enough back seat for that pose.

Thanks, now I can get my wife to drop by and see if the local shop has them yet.

Just curious, has anyone seen this on the dealer shelves yet? The release is scheduled for March and it's approaching the magic third week of March so it should be arriving anytime now.

Have any of the preferred dealers seen the Nickey Camaro kit on the shelf yet?

It would have been nice if they had used some of that money to re tool the chopped hardtop in the '50 Ford kit, a few of us older builders will actually remember seeing it, but it's been MIA since the first reissue/second release. I would have stepped up and bought one of these if the top was in it, but since I already have two of them still sealed, and I can pick up an older version that's virtually the same kit for fair amount less on Evil Bay it just doesn't make sense to me.

I thought so at first glance too, but on closer examination I think what was confusing me was the close proximity of the body line along each fender directly above the chrome strip. In my first look I thought they had blown away the body line.

That'll definitely put it on the gotta have list then.

Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland used to make a resin repop of this that used the '32 Chevrolet Cabriolet as a donor kit, you can check see if it's still available, I found one at Pegasus Hobbies a few years back.

Looking better everything you do with it. Thought I might let you know, that tank idea we were discussing for the spare tire area, one of the tanks from the passenger cars from Chevy during the tri five years work great, you can use it as is or file the ribs away to make it look like a fabricated tank, then either alclad it, or bare foil it for the final touch. Keep it going, we're waiting with bated breath.

So, correct me if I misunderstood this, but the new release won't come with a set of stock fenders for the roadster body?

Love the interior colors, is that by chance a Krylon flat color? Looks a little like their champagne decorator color. That's cool the difference in the two colors with just a primer change both the pink and the lavender are beautiful colors.

Nice job, I like the color so much I painted my R/C street stock Camaro this color and pearl white. As nice as it looks it's even better with a high gloss finish. I want to try it as a mid coat with a House Of Kolor candy persimmon, should make a nice candy orange, might even hit it with a light dusting of gold micro jewel flake for a little sparkle in the candy color.

Make sure you post pictures, your builds are clean and very nice looking, on the next one, you might c o consider going to a hood that opens from the back then tilts forward, look at some of the 1:1 truck magazines for ideas, or do a search for building hood hinges on models on You Tube, there's a couple that aren't that bad to do, I wish I had pictures or had kept the one that I took a pie cut from the hood of just a little more than 1/16" at the front, to nothing about a 1/4" from the back and sloped the hood down, barely enough to notice but really makes the front look different.

For future builds of these trucks the front subframe from the AMT '70-1/2 Camaro works fantastic with very little work and the Camaro/Nova subframe is the choice of many of the 1:1 builders, also you can clean up the rear of the chassis by removing the spare tire carrier and making a fuel tank from sheet plastic to go in the area, and make it narrow enough for the exhaust pipes to exit alongside it to.the rear of the truck.

That's beautiful, love your paint job, it's going to be killer, the only thin I might have done was to move the battery off the firewall and smooth the firewall up.a.tad, to be totally trick put a Coke cooler in the bed and run the battery cables out of.it to look.like.a stealth battery box., or rob the one out of the New Revell.model A, since it's hidden after you build the roadster anyway. Can't wait to the rest of the build.

just scribe around the floor until it drops out then either saw a narrow band off the bottom edges of the tub, or make a mark on how much it nneeds to drop down then use a sanding block and coarse paper or a belt sander to shorten the tub, then just drop the floor back in and glue it in place, then if you have to shorten the bottom mounting surface of the seats if they are to tall. But if they aren't to tall sitting on the '55 floor pan then they shouldn't need to be cut for the SSR interior.

I bought a set of those maniolds in resin a couple of years back on eBay, I looked to see if I had any record of who I got them from but can't find the package, if I do I'll post it, but I do know they're available in resin.

Being an old man, who thought that the world revolved around Annette back then, I can remember the story of Annette's new T-Bird, it was a birthday gift to her from her father. Probably bought with her income, but still a gift from Dad.

I can see a nice roadster pickup in your future.

And you know this because? Personally before I start chucking rocks at something and making claims I like to actually touch the PRODUCTION parts, it's really easy to say it's wrong from a mock up of preproduction parts and pieces only to have to see an orthodontist to have a foot removed after the production kits come out and the new pieces are what we were looking for.

I've got a beautiful pink shade of primer on a 1/20 scale Chevrolet suburban kit that would argue with you about that, three good coats of duplicolor gray primer and it's still turning pink when it dries. Time to hit it with B.I.N. sealer.