horsepower

I thought so at first glance too, but on closer examination I think what was confusing me was the close proximity of the body line along each fender directly above the chrome strip. In my first look I thought they had blown away the body line.

That'll definitely put it on the gotta have list then.

Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland used to make a resin repop of this that used the '32 Chevrolet Cabriolet as a donor kit, you can check see if it's still available, I found one at Pegasus Hobbies a few years back.

Looking better everything you do with it. Thought I might let you know, that tank idea we were discussing for the spare tire area, one of the tanks from the passenger cars from Chevy during the tri five years work great, you can use it as is or file the ribs away to make it look like a fabricated tank, then either alclad it, or bare foil it for the final touch. Keep it going, we're waiting with bated breath.

So, correct me if I misunderstood this, but the new release won't come with a set of stock fenders for the roadster body?

Love the interior colors, is that by chance a Krylon flat color? Looks a little like their champagne decorator color. That's cool the difference in the two colors with just a primer change both the pink and the lavender are beautiful colors.

Nice job, I like the color so much I painted my R/C street stock Camaro this color and pearl white. As nice as it looks it's even better with a high gloss finish. I want to try it as a mid coat with a House Of Kolor candy persimmon, should make a nice candy orange, might even hit it with a light dusting of gold micro jewel flake for a little sparkle in the candy color.

Make sure you post pictures, your builds are clean and very nice looking, on the next one, you might c o consider going to a hood that opens from the back then tilts forward, look at some of the 1:1 truck magazines for ideas, or do a search for building hood hinges on models on You Tube, there's a couple that aren't that bad to do, I wish I had pictures or had kept the one that I took a pie cut from the hood of just a little more than 1/16" at the front, to nothing about a 1/4" from the back and sloped the hood down, barely enough to notice but really makes the front look different.

For future builds of these trucks the front subframe from the AMT '70-1/2 Camaro works fantastic with very little work and the Camaro/Nova subframe is the choice of many of the 1:1 builders, also you can clean up the rear of the chassis by removing the spare tire carrier and making a fuel tank from sheet plastic to go in the area, and make it narrow enough for the exhaust pipes to exit alongside it to.the rear of the truck.

That's beautiful, love your paint job, it's going to be killer, the only thin I might have done was to move the battery off the firewall and smooth the firewall up.a.tad, to be totally trick put a Coke cooler in the bed and run the battery cables out of.it to look.like.a stealth battery box., or rob the one out of the New Revell.model A, since it's hidden after you build the roadster anyway. Can't wait to the rest of the build.

just scribe around the floor until it drops out then either saw a narrow band off the bottom edges of the tub, or make a mark on how much it nneeds to drop down then use a sanding block and coarse paper or a belt sander to shorten the tub, then just drop the floor back in and glue it in place, then if you have to shorten the bottom mounting surface of the seats if they are to tall. But if they aren't to tall sitting on the '55 floor pan then they shouldn't need to be cut for the SSR interior.

I bought a set of those maniolds in resin a couple of years back on eBay, I looked to see if I had any record of who I got them from but can't find the package, if I do I'll post it, but I do know they're available in resin.

Being an old man, who thought that the world revolved around Annette back then, I can remember the story of Annette's new T-Bird, it was a birthday gift to her from her father. Probably bought with her income, but still a gift from Dad.

I can see a nice roadster pickup in your future.

And you know this because? Personally before I start chucking rocks at something and making claims I like to actually touch the PRODUCTION parts, it's really easy to say it's wrong from a mock up of preproduction parts and pieces only to have to see an orthodontist to have a foot removed after the production kits come out and the new pieces are what we were looking for.

I've got a beautiful pink shade of primer on a 1/20 scale Chevrolet suburban kit that would argue with you about that, three good coats of duplicolor gray primer and it's still turning pink when it dries. Time to hit it with B.I.N. sealer.

Not sure if it would help, but since the stock hoses went to a heater core and not through the firewall, you could have used some copper wire from the inside of the firewall and slid your hoses over it, then added a couple of hose clamps to complete the look you wanted.

Might just be my eyes, but 1, and 3, have the flat face on the outside diameter like a trim ring, and 2, and 4, have a lip around the outside edge like a steel wheel has. Could just be my funny idea's but 1, and 3, would be my picks for the ones that have trim rings.

not sue, someone said it was the first year of cellophane wrapping but the one I have has never had cellophane, but was sealed with two strips of tape. I would have wondered if it had been opened and resealed, but it was in a estate sale from a person who had closed their hobby shop and everything had been in storage for decades, and the tape showed its age, it was yellowing and hard as a rock, the glue was just powder when it came off. I could never find any dates on the box or instructions, but the kit is molded in black.

I have a '36 Ford , perfect box and complete in that series.

If you use the six from the 1960 Chevrolet pickup kit, and use the 150 three speed trans, you'll have everything except the proper air cleaner, but that shouldn't be to hard between the '51 Bel-Air one, and the Chevy pickup kits from AMT and Revell, ('41, '50, '60) you should get enough parts to fab one up that can fool most people. Or use a small air cleaner from a two four barrel carb set up as an aftermarket one. Those are tips for someone that might want to build a grocery getter too. You did an excellent build on yours but didn't give any particulars.

they were sold as both '32s, and '33s but are actually '32s, as back then Chevrolet used the previous year front sheet metal from passenger vehicles on the current year light commercial vehicles. If you can get them, the '37 Chevy, all the '51 Bel-Air kits, and the '60 Chevy pickup kit all have six cylinder engines that will be correct for that, Chevrolet didn't change any of the external appearance until '63, except for a valve cover design in '55.

Some nice models on your shelf, but since it's definitely out of place you can ship that old Cox Corsair to me, it will fit right in with all my old (and new) control line stuff. ?

Very nice, really like how the front axle assembly came out and the Olds motor is perfect, along with adding the transverse rear spring, and I know it's one of those things you didn't notice until you took the pictures, but the rear end center section is in upside down, in the new style gear sets the pinion gear is below the center of the ring gear for a couple of reasons, the hypoid style gears are much quieter, and it allows for a lower floor pan and still have travel clearance. Keep up your innovative building, it's great.

Nice job, and it's one of the best two colors for a '32 coupe, the other one is black. But my favorite is the red, really excellent job, and if anyone figures out how to keep the pesky headlight lenses from moving magically after we glue them in place,,, please let the rest of us in on the secret. ?