horsepower

They have been in a clearance bin at our Wal-Mart store for $9.98, and sat for two weeks, I don't know if they sold or not, the bin was removed for Christmas displays.

yup, big ol' kielbasa on a baking dish of scalloped potatoes, instant dinner.

You have discovered the way to keep a group of people at your attention for twenty four hours, you'll tell us how tomorrow.

Nice looking Corvair, they were super little cars that were ahead of their time, just a victim of a brain dead politician. One of the tricks the full size guys did was to use the three barrel downdraft Webers off a Porsche, you make them with a little work and patience.

The other thing I've found out that works great for mixing, and you can even cut them up if you need a flexible applicator is those snap on lids like come on the whipped butter tubs etc. and most glue and fillers will just flake off when dry by just flexing them, and if you want to mix paint in one it even has a lip to keep it in one area better.

I like the green, bet it would be a really bright antifreeze shade using a pearl yellow for a base. Now you've teased us, where's some shots of that engine?

The reason I went with real WAS the underside of the front fenders, to me they appear to have some road muck tossed up onto them, it even looks like some sealer or oil stain of some kind. True Peteski said he was revealing the truth on December10th, he just neglected to say what year. ?

they purchased the paint portion of the business from what I understand.

Pretty little '55, but just for the next time, replacing the dry sump pan with a stock type one, and moving the engine back a tad so the distributor is closer to the firewall, and then you can take the oil pump drive belt off and move the water pump drive belts etc. back closer to the front of the engine and then all you'd need to do is put the radiator on the front side of the core support without having to cut it up. And if that engine came from a Revell stock car kit it's 1/24 scale and one of the SB 2 engines from an AMT kit would be a little easier to put in, until I noticed the dry sump pan and drive I thought you were going with a big block, then I saw the typical small block exhaust layout too and figured out what you were doing, great job.

Get him a couple of the new kits from Revell that are super snap kits, with some detail painting they come out pretty good, and he can get some of them in both painted and unpainted versions, just for shelf builds I picked up the black ZL-1, Camaro, and the glue promo ZL-1 from Round2, and a friend who is a painter in a local collision repair shop gave me about a pint of water base Synergy Green they had left over from painting a newer Mustang in that color. Those kits should give him some newer intermediate kits to hone his skills on, but it doesn't appear he needs to much before he's going to start helping others out.

this would never make it by the nit picker crowd, it's blatantly powered by the wrong engines, definitely not mouse motor small block engines.

I voted real, I got the dirt on this from a fairly competent source, and he said it's real.

Just so I can confuse you more, a few of those "chrome" third members shown in the photos are actually polished aluminum gear case's, and just the axle housings are plated, we ran one of these Aluminum Mark Williams third members years ago in a late model asphalt car, not because it was so pretty, but because it was so light, and the NASCAR gear cases are in a lot of instances after market pieces, not Ford production parts and they will differ in appearance. Plus some of the difference in appearance can be do to the fact that the NASCAR parts are 1/24th scale instead of 1/25th scale.

it was a removable wheel and one of the pranksters in his group hid it on the driver, Dale Earnhardt Sr. did that to Rusty Wallace once right before a race, but that's OK, the next week Rusty got even, he put a can of tuna fish in oil under the seat on Earnhardt's car, did Dale ever start complaining once the race started and that can of tuna started getting hot.

Super nice build, and like a lot of others I really like that orange, so much so that I used it to paint my 1/10 scale RC Camaro street stock, it got a few compliments too, it was the orange and Tamiya clear pearl backed with white, the top surfaces white. Now I'm going to dig something else out and use some more of it, maybe the new snap Corvette kit, that yellow plastic is just begging to be covered up. Keep up the excellent work, we'll see some of your builds in the magazine.

That's the wheels I was telling you about. My uncle had a '50 like this in the mid sixties, J-2 engine, big and littles with chrome reverse wheels, 14" in front, 15" in back, and painted flat black primer. But he couldn't afford the fancy striping, couldn't afford to keep it running either, ended up trading for an all original copper '37 Chevy coupe.

A problem with paint from a primer coat is a preparation problem, not a problem with the paint itself, I see a lot of people who use the idea that prepping primer for a finish coat with super fine polishing cloth is the route to a perfect finish, I've seen some excellent finishes, but you are asking for a problem, it's like putting paint on polished plastic, it's often problematic down the line, using a slightly slower thinner and lower air pressure is the way to smooth lacquer finishes. As a retired painter I will tell you a very expert show car painter taught me to get a great finish to thin the paint a little thinner than usual and apply many coats using between 18-20 psi at the gun, just enough to get the paint out without spitting,and sand the orange peel off every other coat using no finer than 1000 grit wet paper. And this has resulted in some excellent show winning paint jobs. So I don't think it's to far off.

Love that green, could you give us some information on brand and color or color number? It really makes that big boat glow.

Beautiful chebby, looks almost like a factory two tone color combo. And an excellent build.

google You Tube, fingernail polish paint tutorial. There's a couple of really good videos on spraying fingernail polish on there.

You can use the Pegasus 15" chrome reverse wheels with narrow whitewalls, or mount the tires backwards for a blackwall look, or for something different you could use the big and little tires from the McDonald's issue 1/24 '32 Ford Roadster from Monogram, it has chrome wheels with smoothie baby moon hubcaps, they also came in the Beach boys Rockin' deuce coupe, the wheels and engine trim parts are about the only good parts from that kit. Or the Pegasus Sovereigns, or cross bar hubcaps and tires are a couple of other usable idea's, and with the Pegasus tires and wheels you can get it down in the weeds very easily and it will appear time period correct, even the chromes and baby moons would be time period correct.

They were re-released in a Millennium issue in 2000, and are available fairly reasonably, even some of the larger hobby warehouse type outlets have some left in stock, I picked up a few off eBay for less than msrp, including shipping, one of these days I'll drag a couple out and build them, at least one will be on the Revell chassis, just maybe two, one on the convertible street rod, and one on the '40 standard, I hope to build one four door as a memorial to a friend who built a beautiful four door deluxe street rod in full size.

You can get the rod in brass the same size as the piano wire and it's even a little cheaper, .062 piano wire, and 1/16" brass rod, same size.

I have a couple in kit boxes still sealed, and one I picked up in sealed bags in zip locks that had the low rider tires and wheels removed, paid $2:00 each for the bagged ones, at least one gets a small block from the '70 1/2 Camaro kit.