horsepower

Ace, just thought I'd let you know that I just got one of the Gee Bee's off Ebay, ($10 including shipping!), and they've fixed the problem with the wings, the rib pattern still shows up.inside the parts, but the outer surfaces are smooth and flat, except for the very faint raised line in the pattern of the paint separation which is ok with me. Now I just have to dig out some of my literature on them, I've got one book that's from the sixties on the history of the Granville brothers and all the aircraft they built, one from the seventies that has just the "barrell" planes, but lots of color photos, and the one following the building of the 1:1 scale version of the R-2, it has some excellen under construction photos if I should want to really get carried away, it even has pitures of one of the last flights before it was retired to.the Smithsonian when it struck an object on the runway damaging the landing gear and one of the tires.

my guess is that it will be the original roadster from the old Ala Kart double kit, the one that was Mark, I believe Tim Boyd did an article on 1/25th scale race boats and in the article it said that the original release of the Rayson Craft boat with the Ford interceptor engine was a double kit by AMT with the 1965 Grand Prix kit,that version also included the hydroplane sponsons that weren't in the modified reissues, of which the Model King boat was one of. Also the boat in the Model King kit isn't the same boat, the original release was a different hull if I remember correctly. I don't know where my issue ran off to, but I'm almost positive about that.

The boat was in the AMT Bonneville original release, and was reintroduced in the Model King reissue, but all the other reissues didn't include it, but it wasn't a '70 was it? I thought it was an earlier year.

The'64-'66 Chevrolet fleetside beds that I've owned have ALL been like the Revell models in that the upper part of the inner bed is the outer part too, but the lower portion is a straight down surface, and is in fact a double wall to prevent items in the bed from bending up the outer surface if it rolls around and hits the sides. That's why you see step side beds that look like they've been carrying loose cannon balls around, but the fleetside beds seldom show damage from the inside that shows on the outside.

I can remember when those particular tires were the hot thing, in around '74-'75, the first set of radial tires I bought for my little Pinto, they were pretty good at channeling water, but the compound was about as hard as a brick, so dry traction wasn't the best.

evidently you don't know the rules to the game, if you know the answer don't disclose it for everyone else, vote at the top of the page, also don't post where you found any facts or pictures about the item that might again ruin the game for others. I knew the answer too, but didn't give it away, just a small hint that might make others think about it.

cool, wondered how long it would take before the little V-8 60 out of the midgets ended up in a street rod, but I kinda thought someone would put it in a '32, or maybe the '40 Ford sedan delivery since that's the V-8 that was the one used in that.

ever look at the bodies on a funny car? This is just a match race funny car, probably brings a lot of Ford fans out when it and Tom McCewens(sic?) '57 Chevy funny car ran.

We had a flat bottom ski boat with a blown 392 Chrysler stroked to 440 cubic inches, that had been a blown fuel flat bottom and the original set up had a water neck on each head with a cap, the block had been filled up about 1/3 with a cast iron filings and resin mixture to help stiffen the lower end of the block, and the cooling was handled by filling one of the water necks until water would come out the other side,then after the run the caps would be removed and cool water was circulated through the engine to cool the block and heads before the next run. For use in the boat the necks were removed and replaced with temp gauges and a water pickup on the trim plates was used to pick up water that ran into the block and a line from each head to the water manifolds was used, there was no water circulation until the boat was above 10-15 miles an hour. Love your car, but personally would have set the engine back just a little, there was plenty of clearance at the body, bellhousing to do so, like I said, just a personal preference, but the clearance between the rear of the engine and the firewall looks excessive to me. Now that you have the idea down, lets see a track roadster, maybe using a V-6 for power.

since it seems like the fender wells match up with the frame rails and the outside radius of the rear tires, I'd s that they're the same ones we got with the roadster kit. Looks like doom and gloom for those that planned on using the old A fenders from the woody and sedan kits they had left over. Just being curious, but if those who were going to use the old fenders from the woody and sedan kits, if they want to build cars with fenders enough that they kinda complain about the new kits not having them, what did they build with the old kits if they have fenders left over? lol

If you look closely, it appears that the scallops for behind the skirts are shaped almost like the ones for the front fenders, at the front edge to match the curve of the rear of the skirt.

Nice job, I missed some of the build when the thread got moved. Too bad you didn't have it done earlier, Dave and his guys were at the August Good Guys show in Pleasanton, the truck was their too, would have made an excellent time for a presentation.

Nice clean garage queen, lol. Makes me want to drag out one of mine, and get started on building a grocery getter, if I can get hold of a 250 c.i. six for it. I also want to get started my phantom build of the car that the old Hot Rod TV show had, I've got a two door wagon body and interior bucket but instead of building it on the AMT '65 wagon kit, I'm going to use the Revell Z-16 kit for a phantom SS 396, '65 Malibu two door wagon instead, pearl white with either red, or light tan interior, I might get really funky and go with the stock light metallic blue for an interior color, that'd be different.

I like, it. It's kind of like a five or six year old street car with a new paint job, that dark brown was a fairly popular color that Ford came out with almost the same collections color in the mid seventies.

Great job, almost looks like you took photos of a real car and photo shopped them to look like a model. Really looking forward to the '56 Ford pickup, that is one of the hardest kits to get looking right unless you have one of the real early issues, they're so worn out that most of the parts don't fit like they are supposed to anymore.

funny, when I saw the color of the body I was thinking that an oxblood interior would really add some class, reminds me of a Mercedes combination. But I think I would have done something about the old cast iron powerglide transmission.

or just reverse wheels, I can remember spending summers with my Aunt when I was thirteen or so, and my oldest cousin who was already married and did a lot of stuff for local hot rodders in the Los Banos, Dos Palos area (they were from Los Banos) and he would pay his brother and me 25¢ a wheel to cold chisel the rivets out of guys wheels, and he would line them back up after flipping the centers and weld them back together by rosette welding the old rivet holes and running a bead along the back of the wheel. He did alright on those deals, he charged $5 a wheel, and welded and repainted the wheels at work, he worked in the body shop for Keljian Chevrolet.

You mean like the Ford hardtop and Indy pace car convertible kits, or the '66 Chevelle SS kit, and there are some fairly nice airplane kits if you build more than cars. True, most all of the older stuff is just good for the kids who love putting firecrackers in things and blowing them up, but they have produced some pretty good kits so to say that everything the produce is cheap and frustrating isn't really true, and they are the ones that are now producing the old Testors Boyds kits, and even though they aren't totally up to date, they are nice builds, and are a good source for some 1/24th scale parts and pieces for making some of the older Monogram kits a little more up to modern technology.

This might clarify the method better for you. The easiest way to do this is just trace the outline of the rear fender are of the body, and the rear edge of the front fender clearance area onto pieces of plastic, or stiff card and just put those cut out pieces against the body, raise them up the amount you removed from the bottom of the body, trace the outline onto the body and trim the openings on the lines, your body should just slide right into place on the fenders now, and requires no body work to finish off. I discovered this easy method by following an article in Street Rodder Magazine where they did a full size car this way. (Basically, a little harder in steel, but the same basic idea).

Youhave some really nice lines going on there, but after doing a few forties, I've found that you get cleaner lines and it's much easier if you take the wanted section OFF the bottom of the body, and the tops of the rear fender opening, and the front fender clearance at the front door edge area, and by trimming the hood side bulge off then reattaching after you take the required cut off the side to match up the belt lines and rear edges will require recutting to fit the cowl area. But that's just my way of doing it, I got the idea to do it this way after following an article in Street Rodder Magazine, and that's how they did the full size car.

Just amazes me that people who are willing to spend countless hours making a forty year old kit into a spectacular model will on the other hand put down the newer kit because it might not be as nice out of the box as their corrected kit, and the reason I say MIGHT, is because many of the people making those statements say in the post that they've never had the new kit because they saw on line it came from a die cast lineage, one even states he built the die cast and didn't like the engine, so the plastic kit can't have as nice an engine as the other kit, when on all accounts of people who actually have the new kit place the engine as possibly the best W series engine produced. I think if you are going to make a statement about something, and compare it to another item like it that you should actually have BOTH items in your possession, and be looking at the contents of the boxes, not just making statements based on conjecture and what you've read on line about what someone else thinks of the kit. One point in particular is that one person stated how much they liked the '55 & '56 Chevrolet kits that Revell made with the separate chrome parts and options and all the opening doors and such, when it's generally said in the community that these are almost impossible to build correctly without a lot of work, just a great example of how other people have their own opinions of something, the best way to find out if you like it or not is to get one for your own personal enjoyment, and form your own opinion of if you like it or not, your ideas of what you want can greatly differ from other people's ideas, it's just natural.

^^^^

I often have the same problem, I don't understand why people just can't seem to understand what we were thinking when we post something, I had it all worked out in my head, my fingers just didn't get everything down in the translation.

I may be way off, but comparing my House of Kolor color chip book to the pictures of the restored truck it sure looks like lemon yellow candy over a solar gold base, you can almost get the same in HoK model paint with the solar gold base and lime time candy top coat, but I bet Tamiya gold base with transparent yellow top coat would be very close.

Just my taste, but I liked the original wheel centers better. What are the wheel rings themselves done in, I assume it's your own work? Love your concept, show us some more on using that chassis and the changes you had to make.