horsepower

Just a thought, but it appears that the flathead is sitting lower in the chassis than the mock up with the 390, especially in the rear since the top of the transmission for it is lower than the surface of the floor. Lowering the engine down would provide clearance for the starter by allowing the engine to be moved rearward, this would also alleviate the problem with the OHV engines length, like I said it's just a thought and something you might want to look at. Happy building, this is looking like a keeper.

Heads, or tails?

I'm working on a pro street version with the chassis and floor pan from the late issue '57 with the blue car on the box and the big block engine, even though I think I'll use a new ZL-1 for power, and I've got an extra Viper engine to get the TKO T-56 transmission from.

Cool, it's a " "Four Wheeled, One Eyed, One Horned, Flyin' Purple People Eater" sort of, I had to add the four wheeled part, but that's what it made me think of, really like what you have going here.

I really hate to be the one to tell you, but having messed around with a full size blown Hemi 392 Chrysler in my brothers boat, and built almost every model of a Hemi engine that's been produced, the heads on the Revell kit are right on the instructions, you have yours on upside down, if you will look really close at the pictures of your original car, note the angle of the intake manifold area of the heads on it, then look at your model, you'll plainly see the difference. If you want, look at the thread on the Gasser Gremlin in this forum and look at the pictures of the 392 Hemi from AMT that he's using, you'll notice those heads are different than the ones on your model and are like the ones Revell shows on their instructions, I doubt if two different manufacturers would make the same mistake decades apart since the AMT version is a reissue of a '60s release. Happy building, love the looks you have going, if you wait a little longer you can make a real duplicate of the original one using the new Revell "A" as a body chassis donor, it even has the correct front axle..

Oh dear, there goes my Christmas budget. Maybe I'll just send pictures of my newest acquisitions instead of presents.

Just FYI, that rear suspension would definitely need a panhard bar, an easy one would be ala race cars with the nine inch rear, and use a bracket that bolted to the front of the housing using the bolts for the pinion gear bearing, this type can be easily indexed for a easy clearance and to make the roll center lower for better handling, it would use a short bar from the bracket to the frame rail, and wouldn't need clearance above the rear end..

Well at least the yellow base should work for nice base color for a pearl yellow top coat and some clear yellow for a duplicate of the new Corvette tint yellow color. Shoot, might even get away with a little clear pearl, then clear yellow to be really nice and different at the same time.

A little work with a razor saw could remove the heads cleanly enough to reuse without any problems. I've had pretty fair luck just scoring a line with a saw or the back of a #11 blade along the glue joints then flowing some liquid cement along the lines and letting them soak for awhile, usually then they can often be removed at the original glue joints. A little bit of information for the next time.

The front emblem and "OLDSMOBILE" letters are bad, and the roof is too flat; it should have a noticeable "bulge' to it. But the important thing is... you fooled them! What I thought looked modelish (a new word for the dictionary?) Was the front header above the headlights had a different curve to it it kinda flattened out then took a curve up to the hood. But those tires almost changed my mind, the most realistic aged rubber tires I've seen on ANY type of model.

Probably wrong, but something about this appears to be a fairly high dollar die cast, but it's a model in my eyes the tires had me wondering but closer inspection changed my mind.

Nope. BUT I have one of those pre built kits, the AMT Masterpiece, that comes fully built, that has the waves of the headliner showing trough the roof. I guess this is a random issue, as the other Starliner kit I built didn't have the problem also. As a curiosity, the "masterpiece" Starliner also have another problem, big sink areas near the fins, on both sides of the trunk. Stunning Tulio as usual . Did your roof have any depressions of the roof lining showing through to the outside ? Nope. BUT I have one of those pre built kits, the AMT Masterpiece, that comes fully built, that has the waves of the headliner showing trough the roof. I guess this is a random issue, as the other Starliner kit I built didn't have the problem also. As a curiosity, the "masterpiece" Starliner also have another problem, big sink areas near the fins, on both sides of the trunk. I've got four of the two different original releases, and all four of them have the same sink marks you've described, plus the bottom side of the upper trim molding hasn't got any definition at all, after spending a full day of playing with it on one of the bodies I decided to wait until I was really feeling adventurous and relaxed.

It looks like it would be a pretty straight forward deal, doing it with styrene would make it a lot easier than metal, trimming the bottom of the cab and back part of the front fenders would be simple, and taking a template on tape, then applying the tape back to the front clip to use as a trim line. A lot of the fender work could probably be accomplished with a sanding stick. The design of the cab should make it easy to just move the interior floor straight up and trimming off the extra length of the firewall and door panels (if using them) to fit. This will be a really cool looking truck when it's done, I like all the work you did on the frame, if you can do that, the body mods you canprobably do in your sleep.

It must be one of those photo vs. actual car deals, but it appears that the truck in the first photo has been sectioned around 8 -10" just a distortion from the angle? Look closely, you should see what I mean, and it gives the truck a serious attitude, looking at the pictures again it appears that the section job was done along just the lower edges, and is just about the amount of material from the bottom of the grille down. There was a lot of cars done this way back when. The only real work done was to apparently remove the material on the front part of the fenders from just above the curve at the front of the wheel opening, and then molding that part back to the fenders.

Like P.T. Barnum said, there's one born every minute.

You're correct in assuming it's a reissue of the Boomer Bucket, I don't even think it's a modified reissue, unless you can call different box art and different decals, as a modification.

That's great, really like what you're doing, I was curious about how you were going to do the detailing on the valve covers, only thing missing now is the oil and coolant.

I think you can get one of the Tremec TKO six speeds from one of the newer Viper kits if you're interested, and correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't they use another set of rear fenders and swap sides with them for the inner fenders in the bed? Could be that I'm confusing that feature with the Orange Chevy truck they did clean up work on, the older I get the more of these ideas seem to get thrown together and my memory of what file they come from gets confused.

One thing I noticed, and it might just be distortion from camera angle, but on the 1:1 the beltline molding on the quarter panels matched the beltline on the rear of the cab. This is one of the details that I was really impressed by with the original build. I think you're doing a great job, a couple of details on the frame are just a little different but aren't worth doing something to them unless you're really going for exact, and those are the running board brackets on the original don't have the bulky vertical piece that goes vertically up the side of the frame rail. This one should really be ahead turner when you set it down on the table, I plan on watching this one very closely.

There are actually a lot of Bonneville records that were set on a circular course, Mickey Thompson set a few in a couple of Mustangs, and Buddy Baker and the K&K Dodge Charger from NASCAR set some, there are still a few that are FIA endurance records for time and distance that still stand, but I doubt if the salt will allow room for a five mile circle track to be set up again.

Extremely clean build, especially like the attention to detail, like the way of mounting the Lynx air cleaners so they flowed like a continuous element instead of just two air cleaners stuck on top of the carbs. Only thing I think I might have done differently was to turn the striping on the rear panel over to make the width of the rear window flow into the striping a little smoother.

Our fickle nature is praising the abilities of Moebius to do what some think is the undo able for U.S. manufacturers to do, while over in the truck section they're being crucified for the two long awaited Ford pickup truck kits. Me, I'm just going to get a short bed one to build a street rod out of and if I like it I'll do a copy of the most useless and undriveable piece of junk any truck manuscript ever pawned off to the public, the '71 -'72 Ford Ranger Camper Special XLT with the 360 boat anchor for power. My dad bought a new one in '72 and the motor broke a rod with less than 600 miles on it, and afterin it died on him for the umpteenth time crossing a four lane highway in traffic he traded it in on a new Chevrolet 4wd stepside that went 300,000 miles without any problems other than changing one set of plugs at 60k miles.

When you build it use one of the later T-Bird bodies with the slab sides, and put the '94 nose and tail pieces onto it. You will get a much truer representation of the real car, it had the flat sides and skirts, and no crease in the side of the body like the production car had. That's easier than doing the body work to correct the kit body. Post some pics of your build when you get to it. Great build,I have one that I need to get done

I bet if someone were to make a transkit for a Barracuda, or a Challenger (early preferably) there might be some real interest. Especially if you built the Challenger to fit the Petty or Cushman Chrysler Kit cars. There is an article floating around from the old Stock Car Racing Magazine that had some young kid at the time with the name of Earnhardt driving one of the Challenger test mules on dirt, and yes he did succeed in putting a couple of crinkles in the body before he was done, and he was the only car on the track, go figure. And DW said Kyle Bush was the only driver he knew that could go three wide when he was the only driver on the track.

Sorry for the loss of your beloved pet, it's not apparent to some people that our pets are just as much family to us as the two legged ones, in some cases a lot better. Hope you can remember the fun times, it'll help you get through the loss.