horsepower

The front emblem and "OLDSMOBILE" letters are bad, and the roof is too flat; it should have a noticeable "bulge' to it. But the important thing is... you fooled them! What I thought looked modelish (a new word for the dictionary?) Was the front header above the headlights had a different curve to it it kinda flattened out then took a curve up to the hood. But those tires almost changed my mind, the most realistic aged rubber tires I've seen on ANY type of model.

Probably wrong, but something about this appears to be a fairly high dollar die cast, but it's a model in my eyes the tires had me wondering but closer inspection changed my mind.

Nope. BUT I have one of those pre built kits, the AMT Masterpiece, that comes fully built, that has the waves of the headliner showing trough the roof. I guess this is a random issue, as the other Starliner kit I built didn't have the problem also. As a curiosity, the "masterpiece" Starliner also have another problem, big sink areas near the fins, on both sides of the trunk. Stunning Tulio as usual . Did your roof have any depressions of the roof lining showing through to the outside ? Nope. BUT I have one of those pre built kits, the AMT Masterpiece, that comes fully built, that has the waves of the headliner showing trough the roof. I guess this is a random issue, as the other Starliner kit I built didn't have the problem also. As a curiosity, the "masterpiece" Starliner also have another problem, big sink areas near the fins, on both sides of the trunk. I've got four of the two different original releases, and all four of them have the same sink marks you've described, plus the bottom side of the upper trim molding hasn't got any definition at all, after spending a full day of playing with it on one of the bodies I decided to wait until I was really feeling adventurous and relaxed.

It looks like it would be a pretty straight forward deal, doing it with styrene would make it a lot easier than metal, trimming the bottom of the cab and back part of the front fenders would be simple, and taking a template on tape, then applying the tape back to the front clip to use as a trim line. A lot of the fender work could probably be accomplished with a sanding stick. The design of the cab should make it easy to just move the interior floor straight up and trimming off the extra length of the firewall and door panels (if using them) to fit. This will be a really cool looking truck when it's done, I like all the work you did on the frame, if you can do that, the body mods you canprobably do in your sleep.

It must be one of those photo vs. actual car deals, but it appears that the truck in the first photo has been sectioned around 8 -10" just a distortion from the angle? Look closely, you should see what I mean, and it gives the truck a serious attitude, looking at the pictures again it appears that the section job was done along just the lower edges, and is just about the amount of material from the bottom of the grille down. There was a lot of cars done this way back when. The only real work done was to apparently remove the material on the front part of the fenders from just above the curve at the front of the wheel opening, and then molding that part back to the fenders.

Like P.T. Barnum said, there's one born every minute.

You're correct in assuming it's a reissue of the Boomer Bucket, I don't even think it's a modified reissue, unless you can call different box art and different decals, as a modification.

That's great, really like what you're doing, I was curious about how you were going to do the detailing on the valve covers, only thing missing now is the oil and coolant.

I think you can get one of the Tremec TKO six speeds from one of the newer Viper kits if you're interested, and correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't they use another set of rear fenders and swap sides with them for the inner fenders in the bed? Could be that I'm confusing that feature with the Orange Chevy truck they did clean up work on, the older I get the more of these ideas seem to get thrown together and my memory of what file they come from gets confused.

One thing I noticed, and it might just be distortion from camera angle, but on the 1:1 the beltline molding on the quarter panels matched the beltline on the rear of the cab. This is one of the details that I was really impressed by with the original build. I think you're doing a great job, a couple of details on the frame are just a little different but aren't worth doing something to them unless you're really going for exact, and those are the running board brackets on the original don't have the bulky vertical piece that goes vertically up the side of the frame rail. This one should really be ahead turner when you set it down on the table, I plan on watching this one very closely.

There are actually a lot of Bonneville records that were set on a circular course, Mickey Thompson set a few in a couple of Mustangs, and Buddy Baker and the K&K Dodge Charger from NASCAR set some, there are still a few that are FIA endurance records for time and distance that still stand, but I doubt if the salt will allow room for a five mile circle track to be set up again.

Extremely clean build, especially like the attention to detail, like the way of mounting the Lynx air cleaners so they flowed like a continuous element instead of just two air cleaners stuck on top of the carbs. Only thing I think I might have done differently was to turn the striping on the rear panel over to make the width of the rear window flow into the striping a little smoother.

Our fickle nature is praising the abilities of Moebius to do what some think is the undo able for U.S. manufacturers to do, while over in the truck section they're being crucified for the two long awaited Ford pickup truck kits. Me, I'm just going to get a short bed one to build a street rod out of and if I like it I'll do a copy of the most useless and undriveable piece of junk any truck manuscript ever pawned off to the public, the '71 -'72 Ford Ranger Camper Special XLT with the 360 boat anchor for power. My dad bought a new one in '72 and the motor broke a rod with less than 600 miles on it, and afterin it died on him for the umpteenth time crossing a four lane highway in traffic he traded it in on a new Chevrolet 4wd stepside that went 300,000 miles without any problems other than changing one set of plugs at 60k miles.

When you build it use one of the later T-Bird bodies with the slab sides, and put the '94 nose and tail pieces onto it. You will get a much truer representation of the real car, it had the flat sides and skirts, and no crease in the side of the body like the production car had. That's easier than doing the body work to correct the kit body. Post some pics of your build when you get to it. Great build,I have one that I need to get done

I bet if someone were to make a transkit for a Barracuda, or a Challenger (early preferably) there might be some real interest. Especially if you built the Challenger to fit the Petty or Cushman Chrysler Kit cars. There is an article floating around from the old Stock Car Racing Magazine that had some young kid at the time with the name of Earnhardt driving one of the Challenger test mules on dirt, and yes he did succeed in putting a couple of crinkles in the body before he was done, and he was the only car on the track, go figure. And DW said Kyle Bush was the only driver he knew that could go three wide when he was the only driver on the track.

Sorry for the loss of your beloved pet, it's not apparent to some people that our pets are just as much family to us as the two legged ones, in some cases a lot better. Hope you can remember the fun times, it'll help you get through the loss.

It takes a little work but removing the package tray from the roof makes it easier to paint the entire body as one piece, and do the interior separate.

Thanks for the 1:1 photo you posted of the red car. It does a much better job of showing the difference between the correct lines and what was done to try to correct the sedans mistake, maybe this should have been the photo sent to China to the tool makers. But at least it's a lot easier now to see what we need to do on our kits, (unless we're making a short track Saturday night race car). Now show us some shots of the engine you're putting in that beast, from what can be seen it looks interesting. Possibly what I have in mind in scale, the Revell '32 small block Ford with the C-4, or maybe the engine from the Saleen Fox body mustang, or the Monogram convertible so I can have an AOD trans. is what I'm thinking about.

I like the Shelby version, it makes it look like it's been sectioned. You're right, none of the ones you show have been reissued, the only ones reissued were the early Monte Carlo, and the GTO, you think that they would have picked one of them that was more popular than the GTO, I kinda like the MPC modifieds for short track racers too, they're based on the '55-'57 Chevrolet chassis, and we built quite a few Chevelle, and Camaro race cars on those chassis in the seventies.

Very cool, I like your idea, just a thought, have you considered cutting the cowl loose along the front of the door post line and tipping it rearward until the firewall is vertical, it might make the front of the body to appear even more channeled than it is, and would improve the lines when viewed from the side, and would also make mounting a hood a lot easier. Keep up your good work.

Haven' tried it yet with the Petty Kit Car. It is based on the Original MPC Super Stocker. You can use the recently reissued Model King releases. The Petty kit car isn't based on the Super Stock Series kits, the kits in that series are the Mustang, a 69 Camaro, a 70 Monte Carlo, a late 60s GTO, and a Plymouth 'Cuda, these are the only ones I've seen there may be another one or two that I don't know about.

Holding my breath for the '34 Chevy, will it be a three or five window, trunk, or rumble seat? Please pardon the drool.

NASCAR's top division, was originally called Grand National, it changed to "Cup" cars when Busch beer took over sponsorship of what was previously known as Late Model Sportsman cars, Winston took the Grand division and renamed it Winston Cup, the Grand National and Cup designation has remained through the different series sponsor changes that have occurred since then. The Super Speedway designation is for cars on 1.5 mile and larger track sizes, at that time they were cleaner aerodynamicly than the short track cars with tighter wheel openings, and all surfaces were sleeker and faired in to cut down drag and in the case of the Thunderbird the tops were even different in that from the factory there is a small filler piece along the top the C pillar to cover up a seam where there is a weld strip on the two panels, on the race cars they cut that overlap strip off and butt welded the two pieces together, narrowing the roof by about two inches. They were allowed to do this all the way into the 88 season when NASCAR started to enforce a rule that required the area to be full width and the teams had to start using fabricated metal strip to replace the factory plastic filler piece. But in actuality all of the various stock car models from Revell/Monogram were all super speedway cars but were built with the ride height set to the pre race tech requirements, most people do adjust them to the lower heights to make them appear more like what people remember them looking like. And BOTH tobacco and alcohol sponsors were added to a "non child friendly" list of things that manufacturers were prevented from selling to the general population, they had to be labeled as Adult Collectibles, this began being enforced in around 1986, after that the Winston decals disappeared from the NASCAR kits and Skoal decals were removed from the World Of Outlaws Sprint Cars kits. And the second release of sprint cars didn't have Coors, Coors Light, or Old Milwaukee as sponsor decals on the kits.

Since this is a reissue of an already existing kit I wouldn't hold my breath about seeing anything different in the box, but as they did with the three window and it's last release, it might have some big and little wide whites on steel wheels, but I doubt it since it is totally different from the style of the car itself.

Great build, I have a couple of Chevelle bodies I've set back to do models of the '64 & '65 bodied cars we ran in the early '70s at Shasta Speedway in Anderson CA. We had to use the '55-'57 Chevy chassis and small block engines, so I have one using the short track modified chassis, and one on the late version of the Pro Shop '57 from AMT.