horsepower

One of the keys I learned when painting 1:1 cars in some of the more transparent enamels was to use a VERY light fog coat for the first couple of coats and to make sure that they are dry enough that they are past the point of being able to transfer paint to your fingers when touching an area right next to where you have applied the paint, the last coats can be heavier, but the drying time is still very important to avoid sags or runs. It will help with enamel paints to warm them before painting, it will add a little pressure to the can, and the paint will flow out a little better, I heat mine in a sink of very hot water, letting it sit on the bottom with just enough water that the can doesn't start to float. I will pick up the can and shake occasionally, and add hotter water if needed, until the can remains warm to the touch after shaking. But be sure you remove any water that may have gotten into the top of the can. Good luck, painting is an art and once you get it right it's a pleasure.

You do know that the lettering on the 1:1 tires weren't a bright white unless someone redid them with a tire stick to make them look that way, and modelers have been trying to get the lettering right for years, I know you don't want to look for it (I don't blame you) but there are even threads about how to achieve this in the tips forums. Did your Mama ever tell you that you'll get more accomplished with humility the antagonism? With all the people on the forums that don't bring their problems with the moderators to a public place, I'm sure you'll not be missed by them if you decide to leave. I just hope that you were having a bad day and it was just easy to vent on here rather than to those who made your day a wreck, and I don't blame you, I've done the same thing on other forums but I did get back on after gathering my wits and apologized to the person I attacked, and to those that had to see my bad side. Enjoying our hobby is the key, after all is said and done they're still just toys, regardless of what we spend on them.

Gonna give my age away, but I had a teacher when I was in the fourth grade that had a black '59 with silver interior. He always had it polished like a mirror.

The '57 without the bumper should sell like ice cream in July. Instant Gasser!

This was done like the Pontiac Fiero ,front wheel drive engine and transaxle mounted midship to come out with a mid engined coupe with factory power train.

1971 Pinto Sedan "Wonder Pony" Watson Indy Roadster Indy Lotus the dual edition with choice of pushrod or DOHC engines. 1959 Pontiac Bonneville MPC Super Stock '70 Chevelle (or Jegs Camaro)the short track dirt track race cars.

'67 Camaro, no side marker lights.

Looks like Chrysler code F-6. A 1969 only color, I painted my '56 Chevy this color in 1970 it was six months into the year before paint companies got a formula to mix the color in anything other than lacquer.

Has anyone ever tried converting the V12 to a Ardun version? Just curious, might actually be a pretty cool hot rod, or rat rod engine.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking/hoping it was. Out of curiosity, what is decal 16 on the sheet?

When you DO get to the '56 plates you can make them read ZTV 292. That's what the plates on my 1:1 Chevrolet Bel-Air Sedan was.

I want to try a roof and trunk transplant from a Willys coupe, chopped it should resemble a Lincoln Zephyr, possibly a Viper engine with Ford valve cover name to represent a Faux Ford V-10, Webers instead of injection.

Pearl white, and dark violet inserts for seats with the dash top and door tops in exterior color, bottom sections pearl white, carpet in violet.

Got to get one, even though I have one of the '90s reissues still in a sealed box. But this has some neat stuff that one doesn't have because that one's a real reissue of the original. But the pictures look like it's a gray plastic, not white, just the photo?

Unless my old brain is worse than I thought, the bottom part of the decal sheet is from a fairly recent reissue, and the upper part is mainly from the original release. A lot of them I've got in my stash but I had a bad habit of cutting individual decals out and packaging them in pairs before storing them in a safe dry environment. But it doesn't help me remember what kit they were originally from.

I've fixed a couple of really messed up ones by first brush some hot liquid cement into the gap and letting it sit overnight then use some very thin strips of styrene sheet then sand the plastic to match the rest of the surface and after its set up for a couple of days rescribe the line and brush a coat of cement over the area before priming so the lines don't ghost back through your paint job.

Excuse me for not being exactly clear, what I meant TO say was that the bore spacing was almost a half inch difference, actually it's almost .400 difference but a tenth of an inch the way I measure is not even noticed, you know what they say about racers, measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, and cut with a torch. I'm sure that if you're a rivet counter repositioning the cylinder heads on the block is a necessity, but to me and other average builders it's not worth the work of redoing the intake manifold and the exhaust system to do something that for most of us wouldn't even be noticed IF we show the car with the hood open.

Actually all the early small block motors have the same 4.400 spacing but the LS engines vary from 3.898 to 4.100. So none of the LS series engines have the same bore spacing as the early small blocks not even the new 427 inch one.

Yes but the 396 isn't a small block, it's a big block, and they don't all have the same bore spacing.

You have to remember that the larger the bore the bigger the offset, if you are searching for the right offset do a 396-427 engine, that's the offset set you want, there's almost a half inch difference in bore over the 327.

Wrong! Even the example you posted shows the misalignment, just look at the Z in the front of the intake manifold, it's there to align the ports properly with the offset cylinder head. This is a result of the crankshaft and the inability to have to rods and pistons exactly across from each other, and the larger the cylinder bore is the larger the offset required, each crankshaft throw has two connecting rods on it, one going to each side of the cylinder block, the fact that they are one in front of the other on the crankshaft means one cylinder (and its head) are offset from the one on the other side. Usually the side that the number one piston is on is the forward head. I hope this explains it better to you. I googled the engine that this is supposed to represent, and in all the photos I found, it is the drivers side head that should be the forward one on the block.

Putting this next to the Holden ute they look like Proton used the same design and put a shrink ray on it. That rear end treatment looks like an aftermarket add on, or a way to get around the import tariffs imposed on bringing complete pickups into the country, that is one of the reasons why you don't see Subaru importing Brats, Toyota and Mitsubishi and others got around it by shipping cabs and beds separate and putting them together in the states, kind of a loophole but it worked.

Like the way you put the four link suspension in the rear, but a four link with straight lower links, and angled uppers from the top that angle outward make a little cleaner set up since they don't require a panhard bar to keep the rear end centered, most street rod set ups that are intended for street are going this route, even chassis manufacturers like TCI, and a couple others are doing this on the ones that they produce, and it's a lot less work in 1/25th scale. But I DO prefer your set up to the long arms that Revell put on theirs.

Plus you'll also notice if you look closely that the airplanes all have air outlets larger than the inlets that create a venturi effect, basically a low pressure area behind the radiator to help pull air through. We do the same thing with our control line stunt planes. But it's a little hard to do with a street car, again most designed for racing cars have the same thing, even the Shelby Series 1 had this incorporated into the grille and hood.

Considering the hemisphere is a scaled up model of a scale model Chip built as a design exercise while still attending Pasadena school of design and a Chrysler rep fell in love with it and had it commissioned as a full size running concept vehicle to put the New Hemi motor in as a concept vehicle says wonders for the staying power of his designs, also IF you ever get to see the Impression, or Grand Master, after walking around the car and looking at the obvious, look at the builders book that the judges can see, it will take you weeks to find some of the subtle details that the normal person will never figure out, like using drilled stainless allen bolts used to fasten the fenders to the body as the overflow drip line from the A/C condenser so there's no obvious drain hose, and that all fuel, brake, and electrical, along with hvac lines and hoses are hidden under a false floor so they are completely out of sight, but with the removal of the false floor, all the items are in the open and easily accessible to work on. Its the little subtle details that the general public will never notice that separates the masters who build a Ridler winner (one of several) or a couple of AMBR winners, one that failed to take the award the first time, but after bringing the Coddington car to Chip for a freshen up won the AMBR that year. A real show car is in the nit picky details that the public doesn't even notice, but when you get to the level of eight and nine figure cars and six to eleven years of build time, that is what makes the difference between a contender, and a champion.