horsepower

Looking at the option list, it says all Ford passenger cars were standard with a rear mount spare, and side mounts were optional unless the vehicle had a tailgate or rear opening door. Since the list didn't offer any choice of styles for the spare mounts other than location, I would lean toward the standard open spare tire that most pictures show on the two and four door sedans.

Nice, kind of coincidental, just watched a Gearz show on MavTV where they're building a new Evolution Cheetah kit car. It looks nicer and better engineered than the originals.

I know it's too late for this build, but the '66-'67 Chevelle only had a single fuel line to the front of the car, return lines are used mainly for fuel injected cars. There was two different size fuel lines used, the big block engines used a 3/8" diameter line, and the small blocks used a 5/16" diameter line.

I see by your photo of the box top that this is an AMT/Ertl kit, and not a Round2 reissue, so it's no surprise that the part you're looking for from the box art isn't actually in the kit. This was a fairly common problem with some releases prior to the purchase by Round2, just decide if you want to scratch build it, or mark it up to experience and just fill the hole with a piece of sheet plastic.

Is there any updates on a 2015 schedule, and if Bob has a mailing list how do I go about getting on it? The group that was doing it before Bob bought it would mail me out a notice a couple of months in advance, but due to some surgeries I haven't been going to any shows, but really like the summer show in Stockton. I'm scheduled for a another round of surgeries starting May 7th and even though I'll be stranded in the bed for the first three weeks I hope to be able to hobble on crutches, or one of those little push things by show time. Thanks for the updates,Del.

My first car was bought the summer of '68 after graduation, '56 Chevrolet Bel-Air sedan, 283, four speed, fenderwell exit headers, chrome 15" rear rims, 14" chrome front wheels, it was dusty rose and white when I bought it, but the next summer I painted it '69 Plymouth code F-6 bright green metallic. It got 5 mpg on the highway, but could get from stoplight to stoplight very quickly, often carrying the front wheels most of the way.

You can thin it with water, but it acts almost like a retarder when airbrushing, or denatured alcohol will work well, and I haven't tried it yet but some of the acrylic paint manufacturers make a airbrush reducer, but I'd experiment on some spoons first, sometimes mixing materials from one manufacturer to another can lead to disastrous results.

Having helped collect quite a few thirties Chevrolet cars through the years. (The last year that Harrahs actually put on the infamous swap meet in Reno we were the only vendors there selling early Chevrolet parts) It isn't uncommon for the vinyl material to only cover the center portion of the roof, and the rest from drip molding to drip molding be painted black on pickups and commercial vehicles, and the occasional sedan, but never saw a coupe done that way.

The Allison would go better in the Hemi Hydro kit, it even has the extra length to look like a couple of late '70s drag boats that were around.

Could just be my view, but it sort of sounds to me like the old story of three blind men that come across an elephant and are describing it to each other, no one person has a clear idea of what they are looking at, or how what they're describing to each other has to do with what the finished product is really supposed to be. In other words what the U.S. designers are trying to convey to the foreign tool makers lose something in translation, especially to someone who's never seen the end product in person. As we have come to discover looking at photos instead of walking around what you're trying to copy can suffer from how each person deciphers their particular angle of viewing. If we as people who are familiar with the subject matter can't agree if what we're seeing in pictures is correct or not, how can we expect someone who has never been anywhere near the actual subject matter try to get the proportions and angles correct? And we're as much at fault as the companies are, we're pushing for the release, and complaining to anyone who will listen that it's taking forever to get the product out, and eventually the powers that be are in the position of putting what they have in hand into production, or suffer the consequences of pressure from the consumers, and the bean counters who are screaming to high heaven about loss of time and possible sales by prolonging the sales even more.

That looks like something from the mind of Rube Goldberg with all those pulleys and belts, I bet it could be a nightmare if the mechanism ever got out of sync.

Yes, I bought it believing it was a new tool 1/25 release, and after opening the box and messing with it for a couple of hours relegated it to the parts only junkyard.

The rarest of the rare is the AMT Wonder Pony release from 1971 it is the only small bumper version released in a sedan body style.

After pulling up pictures of the 27, & the 29, the 27 nose is flatter and has a higher ground clearance than the 29, the 29 is a sleeker design, but it's not the one represented in the kit, it may not be 100% correct, but it's closer to the actual car than the 29 conversion is, in my eyes anyway.

I hate to even mention things like this for the fear of sounding morbid and, or greedy, but it would be in your best interest to have the car signed over to you as a gift before the passing of the great grandmother. This bypasses any inheritance taxes, and I have been on a losing end of a similar deal, I spent all my high school years living with a favorite aunt, and while I was there she bought a brand new '65 Valiant, over the years I helped her out with many things, and kind of was the caretaker of her car,, we discussed the fact that since it meant so much to her (it was her first new car after a rough marriage and divorce) that I would really like the car if something happened to her, in '94 she was worried about it getting older and unreliable (it had 46,000 original miles on it) so she put it on blocks and put the tires in the barn, but would start it every thirty days to keep the cylinders from rusting up. The irony is that the new Plymouth Neon she bought to replace it had an underhood fire and burned to the ground, so she bought a new breeze in '99, sadly she passed unexpectedly in 2001, and hadn't written up an official will, I talked to her youngest daughter about the car, and she said she was aware that her mother had wanted the Valiant to go to me, and as soon as they could get it appraised they would let me know what they would sell it for, I haven't heard from either sister since, and no surprise when my father, (their uncle) died two years ago we never even got a sympathy card. So get anything that a loved one plans on bequeathing you either before they pass, or clearly laid out in a legal will that has been notarized, family can turn into vultures after a person passes.

No, what he is saying is that the set that is available doesn't have the many detail parts as a typical Model Car Garage kit.

The grille, and tail lights are available in resin, I don't remember exactly, but if Modelhaus doesn't make it I'm sure someone will remind us who does. Thanks in advance.

Nice build, I like the Olds to Chevy swap, it was a popular swap in the late fifties, I still have a Trans-dapt adapter for one hanging in the garage. It's amazing how that color and base combo looks so close to the Testors Metalflake Red, I like your ideas but if I build a semi clone I think I'll use the Olds grille from the '48 Ford custom kit.

Love the stance and the flares worked out perfect without making it appear gaudy, it doesn't have to have the front splitter to look really aggressive, but might add some winglets on the ends to the flares, would serve to strengthen the splitter and keep air from spilling off the ends and direct it over the flares for a little more downforce.

Since round2 now owns Lindberg, then regardless of who used to sell it under the Lindberg label, Round2 has the right to put any of the companies labels they own on it and sell it. Who knows, maybe the '34 Ford pickup will get reissued in original AMT artwork boxes as an AMT kit again.

Yep, nothing under hood, or chassis details needed, but has always been a pet peeve of mine that they will allow you to open the doors and whatever to show off the interior details. Love what you're doing, should look like a little steam roller cruising along, hope you have some super fat low profile tires that will have the sidewall hanging out of the flares slightly. Maybe black and gold carbon for the top surfaces, and a rich Inca gold for the sides. So from the front it looks like a carbon fiber stealth racer coming at you.

Are you going to fabricate some kind of heavy chain drive, possibly using a PE chain from a 1/12 scale motorcycle to drive a v-drive from a boat TO the quick change? One of the Velvet drive v-drive units wouldn't require a clutch even as they use a fluid coupling that is boosted by an engine driven pump sort of like a constant speed auto trans.

Just an idea about a way to do some blending on the front splitter without a ton of work and hours of bondo. Round plastic tubing, cut to length to fit the area, then cut into quarters and sand the surface where it hits the splitter flat on the bottom of the curve so it sits on the splitter. You have a constant smooth curve from the top to where it blends into the splitter on the bottom, will require little if filler any if you work carefully, and a piece bent around a mandrel with heat for the corners can be cut and fit in the same way to save work. When I was a bodyman with my own shop, I did basically the same thing with large diameter exhaust tubing and mandrel bends to make a front air dam and splitter on a full size '65 Impala convertible, used the same size diameter tubing in the rear but with the roll the other direction to make the main pieces of a rolled pan. But I have to give the basic idea, at least for the rolled pan to a Barris article in one of the small 35¢ Rod and Custom magazines, but he used '39 Chevy headlight buckets cut into quarters for the end pieces on a deuce roadster. Yes I'm old enough to have read those little bibles and remembered what I read, even if I wasn't a teenager yet.

That piece between the two exhaust pipes? Think about what it does, it collects the exhaust from the two pipes, thus its name, "collector".

You can actually remove some of the coarsest flakes from the paint by using some nylon screen from detailmaster, they have a couple of different size meshes, just cut a square and using a finger tip to push some down into a bottle to make a funnel of sorts, then pour the thinned paint through the strainer, and voila! Just the finest metallic, almost scale size is what will be left.