horsepower

Have you looked at a fabric store for Silver nylon thread, it is stranded and can be unwound to use as shielded spark plug wires, or you can use #2 detail master braided line to replicate the shielding on the plug wires, I realize its a past step, but have you looked at using wound guitar string for the rear sections of your emergency brake lines from the primary pull cable at the frame, to the calipers? Also I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect the drag link with the idler arm on the passenger side,and the steering box and make them move with the tie rod assembly, always stumps me.

I can remember seeing this car in person the first year it was finished, and the tape deck was used in the display, it was ran as a narrative about the car and its various highlights, along with the narrative the engine would fire up and the throttle blipped a few times and the bubble top would cycle up and down, this "program" was repeated about every fifteen minutes.

It's kind of interesting that they can go to the trouble of copying the entire tube chassis and supply a clear belly pan so you can see it. But can't figure out out that the seats in the full size car had backs, and then have the model seats visible enough to see the lack of rear panels.

Beautiful job, did you use clear orange, for the anodized finish on your wheels? Not nit picking, but the 409 has the same exhaust,intake,intake,exhaust exhaust,intake, intake,exhaust valve layout as a small block, so your injection intake tubes should be paired together more like the small block than a hemi or big block..

We had a family friend when I was younger (a lot younger) that bought a new '58 Bonneville, to a young car crazy pre teen it was the most beautiful thing on wheels, it was a metallic pinkish shade somewhat like the Evening Orchid that GM used in '65, if I remember right, but it was a looong time ago, the trim was either silver, or India Ivory, I'm leaning to the white. The main color is listed in the MCW catalog as 5819 Orchid. If you want to get your local bodyshop that has their own mixing station, the factory code was X, they actually might be able to mix up a touch up bottle in water base, or the original lacquer. With the envirobase you can top coat it with urethane for the deep show type finish. After looking at the colors I think I would go with the factory silver mist for a two tone color in the trim coves. Keep us updated I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with this one.

It's really not a surprise about not having an exterior rear view mirror, they weren't required in most states until the late '60s. I can remember having to buy mirrors from the local parts store and having to do drill holes in the fenders of my '56 Chevy Bel-Air sedan in 1967 after being warned by a CHP that they were now required on at least the drivers side of all cars. And our neighbors nephew got a brand new '59 Pontiac Bonneville for graduation, and he decided to not have outside mirrors put on it, my uncle was the salesman on that deal and he thought it was funny that he ran his hand along both sides and stepped back to look at the car more than once before deciding against mirrors.

same kit, just remaining stock, surprised that the Fleetline evidently sold out before the sedan delivery, but with the coupe coming soon maybe we'll get a new run of fastbacks since the body is the only difference.

I really like your color scheme, but you did forget the chrome that runs from the windshield to the rear window chrome there's a small triangular piece between the windshield and the vent window, the rest just goes along just below the drip molding on the roof, might even bring the black out a little on the roof, great job on detailing and installing the photo etch, it looks like it was factory done.

Mattel owns the rights from Ferrari, any company that wants to issue a Ferrari product has to deal with Mattel instead of directly with Ferrari. Probably makes it easier on all parties, and Ferrari doesn't have to deal with the people directly and it makes the language and piddly toys out of their hair, Lord knows what with dealing with F-1, and Bernie that takes most of their lawyers time.

The front fender molding is the most obvious, plus some interior changes, and about a year.

I can remember waiting for the trailer and crushed cars to be released, but the L700 with the clunky '40 on it was the last of the Lindberg kits Wal-Mart carried, and that was the end of the Lindberg deal. I just wonder how bad they really got burned by Wally World dropping out of the deal.

When I first started racing slot cars, one of my first cars was a 1/24 scale Lotus 30 from Lindberg.

'Tis the season for speculating about what the new year will bring, and wondering what happened to what looked promising ideas from the past that never came to be. But just remember, "Curiosity killed the cat" .

looking really good, I like that you left the drip molding on it adds to the flow. If you want a super sparkle green use the "Metalflecks"silver base and HOK Organic green for a finished color, or you can use the Metalflecks base and Testors Candy Green for a color coat, in scale that silver base looks like a metalflake with a candy over it.

A couple of years ago I saw a real (can't really say full size lol) '65 Falcon at Hot August Nites in Reno that was done this way.

Warning, with most enamel paints you'll need to wait two weeks after sanding before recoating to avoid wrinkling. Also 320 grit is much to coarse of paper to sand your primer with before applying the finish color on a model, it's o.k.on a full size car, but on a model it's going to look like you did the sanding on a full size car with 36 grit paper, usually the coarsest grit to use would be 800p, which surprisingly enough is coarser than 600, the p designation is a European grit and is slightly coarser than the U.S.600 grit designation. If it were mine I'd toss it in the purple pond and start over, after a soak in that anything that is causing fisheye will be gone.

If anyone has a set of the #17 blue and gold David Pearson Torino decals they would like to get rid of I'm trying to do a model of that car and the only one I could get to work from was a Woods Bros. kit. The car is locally owned by a Dr. friend and is currently being raced in the vintage NASCAR road races. I was a dealer and have quite a bit of pre-1999 decals for cup and bgn cars if you want to trade.

According to the manager of our Redding Wal-Mart, it's up to the individual store as to whether they want to carry models or not, there's only one within fifty miles from me that carries them and their stock right now is down to less than six cars, and even worse for paint, Christmas cleaned them out. But they said that after the usual first of the year inventory mess is over that there will be new stock, I do know I thought that they were phasing them out again just after thanksgiving because they cut the display area in half and put a few on a clearance aisle, but the next day there was a large direct from Revell display in the main aisle that was a lot better stocked than the other aisle ever was, and they still had the original location too.

If you go back through the thread it says it was dropped because the tooling for the pickup was going to take to much work to restore it to the stock status after being altered for the monster truck kit.

It seems like every time I pick up a new kit that the one I'm working on gets moved to the stack, or I get into the garage and pick up a kit I forgot I had, or forgot it was moved to the waiting status, and I'm sidetracked again.

I know that you are probably doing all these steps, but you are allowing the decals to dry at least 24 hours before applying ANY paint over them, and you're cleaning the decals after they set to remove any residual adhesive that might be on them. And the first couple of coats should just be fog coats, and if craters do start to appear you can usually apply several very light coats that will establish a stable base so you can put the rest of the clear on and it will at the worst look like light orange peel that can be sanded and polished.

In about 75% of the Wal-Mart stores on the left coast that I've been to have been carrying plastic models for about a year now.

I'm going against the current with this one, there's just something about the tread on the front tires that appears more model than real. Or it has a funny alignment problem.

I'm kinda wondering what planet you are from where over 600 horsepower from a 3.5 litre V-6 isn't impressive?? lol