horsepower

The belt ran inside of the idler pulley will engage more teeth and will be less likely to start shearing teeth off the drive belt because it takes the same force to spin the blower, but spreads it out over more teeth, but it also takes more power to spin the blower, it's a tradeoff between horsepower and reliability.

Is that Comet, one of the Williams Bros. kit? Looks nice, I've got at least one of every racing plane from their lineup.

I'd forgot how butt ugly those houndstooth seats actually were, lol

I know it might be a surprise, but there is a lot more to NASCAR than the Sprint Cup series you watch on Sundays, this would have been a very correct NASCAR modified from the mid to late '60s, at one time NASCAR even had a dirt super modified division it sanctioned in San Jose, California. Even today NASCAR sanctions two different modified divisions, a Northern and Southern division, along with grand american modifieds which is basically a copy of the IMCA class but runs at NASCAR sanctioned tracks, they even have dirt late models, and in the fifties had a Sprint car division, so yes, it's a NASCAR. Oops, sorry for the rant on NASCAR, again, forgot I'd already posted on this, but not recognizing short track cars that race under a NASCAR sanction as not being NASCAR because they aren't a Sprint Cup car would be akin to saying anything that's not a top fuel car doesn't belong in the Drag Racing Forum. You can have the thread back now, just remember that there is over a hundred NASCAR sanctioned short tracks in the nation, and have been for decades and every class they run at those tracks are NASCAR cars, even if they only made one race they had to join NASCAR to race at a NASCAR track. Maybe the forum should be changed to "Oval Track", we will let the cup cars show on it since they do run on an oval track, ..most of the time, there's even a NASCAR race car that has set records at Bonneville, and a current one still trying, driven and owned by retired Cup driver Dave Marcis, where does that fit in the forums?

Two things I've come across that may help you out, first one is, when working with plastics of any kind they will build static electricity up just handling them, and even tacking them down before painting. You can run a wire from the metal parts that you are supporting the body with to a ground in your painting area, or a trick I learned when painting boats and'Vettes, etc. when I had my body shop is you can take a cup (airbrush size bottle or paint cup) of plain old rubbing alcohol and spray a mist coat on what you're painting and surprisingly enough it will dissipate static electricity. The second thing is I assume you're using Tamiya paint, I've had problems with it "solvent cratering" when I try to lay down a good wet final coat without letting the previous coat to dry enough, you can be sure it's ready if it's allowed to dry to the "slick dry" stage, this is when you can lightly run a finger over a test area (there's usually an area of some sort right near what you're painting you can use) without any paint sticking to your fingertips, remember LIGHTLY run just a fingertip. These solvent craters look almost like fisheye, but just opposite of fisheye won't show up until the last wet coat of paint, and not when applying it, but shortly thereafter, when it actually starts to cure. What is happening is to much paint to fast, and the paint drys from the outside in, and the very top surface actually skins over trapping solvents in the paint underneath it,,, and when those solvents try to gas out, they will actually form tiny bubbles in the surface and when they vent out it leaves a pinhole of area that goes down to the point where the paint was allowed to dry, that's why usually it's a primer coat. This is bad news when you're painting your models, but the first time I ever heard or saw this happen was when I painted a full size Cadillac and when I went back into the booth two hours later every surface flatter than forty five degrees was covered in these little pops in the surface, Ditzler actually had to bring in a factory tech to look at the problem and diagnose what it was, none of the local paint guys had ever seen it. But having actually been through it, the first time I had it happen on a model I recognized it right away, there are some colors that are more prone than others, and the only reason I can think of is the amount of actual thinners Tamiya is using in them.

Ok, now I'm officially jealous, been wanting to try one of those ever since I saw the first pictures, I'll just have to make due with my Paasche VL, at least I've got all three needle and head choices,. I got a pleasant surprise, I picked up one of the cheapy $14.95 Harbor Freight specials and it works out pretty good, used it for some fine detail work and it surprised me, and I bought it so I'd have something to use just for primer, but it's working for everything, but I'm not going to even try it on the high solids urethane clears, or really coarse metallic, just to fine of a needle size.

You'd think that his "well known reputable caster" that was working with him would have said something about what happened. Unless maybe it was well known, but not so reputable. ;-)

I think he's referring to a club MAMA.

The Roth car you have is the "Road Agent" I can remember seeing it when it was new on the show car circuit. It's display started the engine, revved it a couple of times, cycled the bubble top up and down, and had a recording that told the story of the car and all of its specifications.

Or you could remember what the fashion industry told us when Jackie Kennedy was first lady, you can't go wrong with basic black and pearls.

Tamiya candy lime green with a pearl white roof, and insets on the quarter panels

I have one of the "Medicine Man" Advent kits I picked up in a yard sale as a partial built up, and it's chrome parts are all there.

Those are the out of box wheels that come with the "Rat Roaster" roadster kit from Revell.

And a dirt late model or a Sprint car aren't NASCAR either, but since there's no specific category for them they get posted in whatever is closest.

AMT Craftsman series 1964 Chevelle Malibu SS, AMT 1971 Ford Pinto Sedan and, MPC 1974 Pinto Sedan.

Beautiful job, just a couple of little details that you might want to correct, the small rectangular chrome square behind the shifter is power window switches, and wouldn't be needed with the door window cranks your doors have, and I know you stated you aren't through detailing the interior so you're probably going to do the shift ball in gloss black. The other part you probably haven't approached yet, the floor pan areas inside the actual frame trails are a matte finished gray primer appearance from the factory, this through me, I did one to look like a car that I painted when I used to have a body shop, and didn't know until later that the cars owner had removed all the factory finish on the body and didn't reseal the raw fibreglass that was visible on the floor pan, and I assumed that was the way it was supposed to look. Are you planning on using the optional cross ram fuel injection manifold? Curious because it is about what I've been trying to duplicate for an asphalt super modified I'm playing around with. Keep going, it's a beautiful car and I love watching your progress. And I hope you and your wife have a very Merry Christmas, one of many,many more you'll have together.

If you are buying the '33 Willys to get this tire and wheel set, it ain't gonna happen, that's one reason that Round2 came out with this set is because people wanted the same appearance, but not with 4 lug wheels, and if you're buying previous releases for $8 to get'em you're going to be REALLY upset, because the only releases with the small front tires and proper slicks are the original one, and the newest version. Neither one will you find for close to $8.00 But don't complain about the price, oh yeah if you got the original M&H sets for your magical $8, consider yourself very lucky they hit the shelves at an original price of $16.99, and were marked back to $14.99, but the best I've ever seen the set is $12.99. I was complaining about the current kit prices to my wife one evening after a trip to the LHS, and she reminded me that when I paid two bucks for a kit, I was making two fifty an hour, and gas was forty cents a gallon, so I have quit complaining.

You have to remember that hood scoop sits on the top of the carbs after the manifold is in place, and after you move the motor back to its proper placement,the scoop will set almost against the windshield, and the base will be even with the hood line.

Depends on what year you're going to be representing with the decals, by '92 the Ford teams had done away with that reveal, and went to the "slab side" style bodies. So if you are going with the Bill Elliott cars fill it in and take the rolled rockers off and make the only entire body flat sided with skirts along the rockers with cutouts for the jacking points on both sides, and for the exhaust where it exits.

About the only thing that I've found that will strip lacquer based paints is denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alcohol.

I'm not sure how much it would help you, but one of the first fabricated bodies of that era was done by Tom Hubert from Cottonwood, California. It was the Bahari Racing,# 30 Country Time Lemonade car that premiered in Daytona. Tommy is now a fabricator, and pit wall tire catcher for the Rick Hendrick Racing teams, you could possibly get an email,or snail mail to him care of Hendrick Motorsports, and he would probably tell you anything that he could that might help you. I've known Tom since before he won his first drivers championship at Shasta Speedway,in Anderson, California in the bomber division at seventeen years of age, he went on to a couple of late model championship runs, and gained the reputation as a road race specialist partly because of his background in shifter carts. He won one televised Northwest Tour race at Portland, Oregon's road race track in a last lap run from tenth place to the win on a white flag restart, before the green, white, checkered rule. And qualified several times for other teams and drivers at the road course in Sonoma, he also ran part of a season in the trucks before the ride went to a driver with sponsorship money. Tell him you were referred by Del Streetman, Pat Norris's buddy. Good luck

There are several models of the Challenger, just none of the Hellcat- - - yet.

I liked the body of the AMT version better, I did assemble the body completely first,then cut down the locator pins on the chassis,and trimmed the very front portion of the chassis away, this allows you to put the chassis into the completed body and the front portion of the chassis you have to trim off isn't visible after assembly anyway. Doing this allows you to get everything fitting perfectly on the body before starting any paint work, I also sanded the edges of the hood to open up the gaps to appear more to scale, to get them just what I wanted I took 400 sandpaper folded in half and put it into the hood to fender gap to make it exactly the same the entire way around the hood. I blocked the body down with 800 paper, then 1000 before priming to avoid to much primer filling in details. I got lucky and scored some water based Synergy Green from a friend who is a painter at a local body shop to apply to my ZL-1 when it's ready for paint. I'll do a clear coat of automotive Omni brand urethane clear for the final finish. .

If all he wants wanted to do was a styling experiment on ideas for customizing his 1:1 car, then the curbside is perfect, that's what I posted, but I also said if he wanted a fully detailed model, then the Revell kit was what he needed.