horsepower

There was excerpts from an old interview with Smokey that was done by Benny Parsons on the Ray Evernham show"Americana" a couple of weeks ago, & Benny asked about the Chevelle, & Smokey said that the story about it being a"scale" size, was just that, a story, it was full size, but did have a"couple" of tricks, like the spoiler at the rear of the roof that NASCAR in all their knowledge decided was more of a hindrance than help. I have seen the complete interview years ago & there was more said about that car, it was at one race & NASCAR wasn't going to allow it to race because it didn't' fit the templates of that time, & Smokey went to a local dealer & brought a new'66 Chevelle to the track, & when the templates fit Smokey's car better than they did the new one NASCAR had no choice but to allow it to race.

To keep the silver from the streaking & darkening around the edges & valleys put the initial coat of clear on in a very light fog coat & allow it to dry before proceeding, this will"seal"the silver so that the clear coats won't cause the fine metallic in the silver to"float" & move around resulting in the sort of "puddling" effect that you now see one the hood. Unfortunately to get the hood straightened out you will probably need to strip it & start over, but if the extra paint build up isn't a problem,you can just recoat the silver base & allow it to dry completely before proceeding with the clear coats. Nice job on the "Pro Touring" look.

You're going to find out that some Chinese tool maker knows nothing about automobiles,as they have the exhaust manifolds coming out of the block instead of the heads. Not to hard to fix, on mine the exhaust pipes didn't need to be adjusted in length even though the manifolds are a little higher after the repair. Also on mine it took a little sanding to make the hood fit & have enough clearance for paint build up.

I've posted that the dye worked on the vinyl interior stuff in the newer AMT kits,& if you have a automotive paint store that handles SEM products they have a pretty good selection of colors in over the counter sprays, & can mix it in any color you might need in a formula that's all ready to spray & works well in an airbrush, & it works well on plastic if built up in light coats, unless it's a part that is supposed to be vinyl or leather. Then the heavier coats will work fine.

I have had luck with blue fingernail polish remover, but don't leave it in for a long period. You can also use 91% isopropyl alcohol, or denatured alcohol. I've also used the ole"purple bath" but that depends on what the company used for a base.

I've seen a couple of these locally in"Grabber Blue" & one that's a yellowish orange I noticed a can of spray in Tamiya paint that's really close to this color, but for the life of me can't remember the color or number. Personally I liked the blue ones best, but I did see a"generic"Mustang in a green that's close to GM's Synergy Green if it's available on the 5.0 that's the color I'd go for.

Yes,but the problem with the hood to body fit isn't affected by that, I've had releases from'98,& all the issues since & haven't had a serious problem with the hood fit on any of them that couldn't be repaired fairly easy.

You can get what is almost the exact engine in the Revell '69 Nova SS kit the exhaust manifolds are from almost any small block from'57 up through the late '70s that style motor & valve covers was from '69 & later. Most resin engine kits are going to set you back almost as much as a complete styrene kit, & you can sell or trade what's left

Straight from the kit

Welcome back, you're doing pretty good, but I've got some bad news for you, as you start adding more details not only will they get smaller, they will get harder to see & some of them seem to have a mind of their own,& they love to play hide & seek, especially if you work over a carpet floor. I just have to point out that the kit you got the hot rod motor from is the Rat Roaster,not roadster, it is a small block Chevy,with enough goodies to literally "roast" any Rat motor out their.

Yes to all the questions except the one about the radius rods, it was done like the Indy roadsters & the early Champ cars with the torsion arms attached to the front axle with heim joints on the top & there is a hairpin type radius arm on each side of the axle

I can tell that you aren't in the business of casting yourself, it would be reasonable to expect someone to get parts out in 48 hours that were in stock, but if they have to get in touch with the person that is actually molding the parts & he has to pour them then get them to the first person & he has to package it up & get it shipped, then it isn't unreasonable to take another day or two, & that's assuming that your part is the only one they have to get done. You also have to realize that very few casters do this as their main income, they are juggling a daytime job & a family too,so if it takes less than a month to get your parts plus they offered you something in the form of an apology you are ahead of the game, & you're dealing with a reputable person, it could be much worse, I've been waiting for six weeks for a rear view mirror for the'62 'Vette from Revell, but rest assured that it won't keep me from using their services again.

If anyone has noticed, the current trend in high end customs & street rods is buffing all of the lettering off of the sidewalls on the tires, Revell isn't wrong, it's just taking the rest of the world awhile to catch up. lol

No,it's not to tall, but it does seem to have a slight downward slope starting at the B pillar,not to bad though.

Using water to thin acrylics is a tricky deal, as water acts as a retarder in most cases I have very good results using denatured alcohol, and some people use windex but I've always been afraid that the dye would change the color slightly

You really nailed the"look"on this one, I spent many an hour behind the wheel of '64 Malibu (almost exactly identical except for the minor body changes) and I feel right at home with this build, the interior is even the right shade of blue, and the addition of the white was a nice touch.

Really like the job you did on both the model and the display. As to the camera problem, did you notice a small booklet in the box with the camera? Those were the instructions and probably have a detailed section on fixing your problem. lol

If you have a local hobby shop that handles paints for R/C cars, you can get Alclad in spray cans for polycarbonate (lexan) it is lacquer based so make sure you let your black base dry well. I haven't used it,,,, yet but like Spaz-stix it says you can seal it with a water based clear acrylic.

One reason the old boxes like that EXP could get that mileage was they were light & had anemic motor's, unlike most of todays cars, my wife's new KIA optima is a much heavier four door with a 2.4 non- turbo motor that gets 37 mpg with four adults & a child on board at 70mph,& you don't time the zero to sixty time with a calendar. And we really enjoy the sirrius XM satellite radio, A/C,etc. I had what was a very strong for the day Pinto with a 2.0 motor, headers, & 2 1/2" exhaust system that was no faster, got nearly the same mileage, but no where near as good in handling even after springs,shocks, & widewheels & tires, true it was fun to drive, as long as you didn't mind your butt going numb if it was a trip that took over an hour. There are just to many advances in technology for those little pushrod"sewing machine" motors to keep up, let's compare, a 1.6 Ford in the EXP & 80 h.p. two seats & very limited creature comforts, against a fully loaded KIA Optima with a 2.0 motor that puts out 270+ h.p.,still think that the new cars aren't a little better?

Super (no pun intended) build! I have around a half dozen of the Monogram kits, but the car I want to build is the next version, it is a much lighter car being constructed mainly of 1-1/2 inch tubing, and was a "four bar" car much like a modern sprint car, except it followed the Indy cars of the day in that the front bars were connected to the axle with links, it was a longer wheelbase of around 90 inches. The car I want to model never handled very well until at the last race at the old Sacramento mile when a young kid named Opperman told them to "get rid of those BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH links and let the front end work" that it actually worked well, the car had come from the back to around 12th place when the race was red flagged for the final time.

Drink lots of liquids, get plenty of rest & stay in, it'll get better. :-)

It's called capitalism. It's only rippin' someone off if it's forced on them if you don't like it, don't buy it, if it's the last one available, then it's a case of supply & demand.

The edit didn't exactly work as intended (lol) but then what else does?

After reading every post on this thread I only saw one person that actually understands what is happening. Revell didn't say it was licensing issues with NASCAR that was the problem, just licensing issues, as most of us know we no longer have Goodyear lettering on the sidewalls of the tires in any of our kits, is this NASCAR's fault, no it's just another licensing problem, now look at a NASCAR kit did you notice all of those different contingency decals almost everyone of those wants an agreement too & most want a fee along with it, not to mention that each driver has their own deal along with the manufacturer,the owner,& the sponsors of the car. Is it any wander that there isn't anyone interested in producing a modern Sprint Cup, or any other NASCAR vehicle? No,it isn't all NASCAR, just another licensing problem that has more to to due with our economy than anything.

I have one of these that I picked up off EBay a while back & they are great,now if I can just find a a new box of 'round tuits I will let you know how well it looks finished. lol:-) :-)